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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I push my brake peddle very slowly my '94 comes to a stop just fine. But if I push the peddle down without trying to do it slowly and carefully my Bronco lunges forward in a very sudden jerky kind of motion that does not feel right at all.

It feels like when I push the peddle with normal pressure the brakes jerk or catch real quick and seem to want to lock up.

Is this normal?

Why are my brakes so touchy when I try to apply my them in a normal manner?

:banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :popc1:
 

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Call Me Ace
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your pads may be too tight?
were your rotors machined with your last brakejob?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Rotors have not been machined.

My front brakes squeek pretty bad yet I have been told I have %40 to %50 left on the pads. I am not sure when the last time my rotors were turned?
How would I know if the pads were to tight and how would I loosen them up a little if they were?

I will look next time after I drive for a while for heat and brake dust.

:beer :popc1:
 

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"Clever User Title Here"
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1clean5.8 said:
Could have bad calipers.
Most likely.

Get yer rotors turned first to see if that solves it, $10 bucks per at most Napas. Bleed your brakes too while you are at it.
 

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Call Me Ace
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could be blockage.
im betting more on the calipers.
you can take them off- and get a block of wood and a c-clamp. then theres a circle that you push in with those two items. that circle regulates how much your brake pads are being pushed in as they wear down.
you might just have BAD calipers. you go through alot of water? has your bronco sat for a LONG time without being driven or anything? do you know if to PO was good with reg. maintenance?
ace
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm thinking calipers also.

I also believe my calipers are acting up.

1. Are calipers exspensive?

2.Who makes the good ones and where do I buy them?

I did a brake job on my '78 cadilac a few years ago. I know brake jobs are not that hard to do.

3.Wouldn't a Chiltons or Haynes book tell me what to do?

4.What do bad brake lines look like, what should I look for?

:beer
 

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Call Me Ace
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my chilton told me how to do it.
im not sure on prices- call your local parts store...
ace
 

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Call Me Ace
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if you upgrade to bigger tires- you can get bigger rotors and calipers.
i think just reg. ol' calipers will work good for you man.
ace
 

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94BattleWagon said:
I also believe my calipers are acting up.

1. Are calipers exspensive?

2.Who makes the good ones and where do I buy them?

I did a brake job on my '78 cadilac a few years ago. I know brake jobs are not that hard to do.

3.Wouldn't a Chiltons or Haynes book tell me what to do?

4.What do bad brake lines look like, what should I look for?

:beer
1) YES and NO. Calipers can be expensive.
Unloaded Calipers (no pads, no bracket and sometimes no hardware) are generally cheap.
Loaded Calipers (comes with pads, hardware and bracket.. thus go with quality product) can be a bit pricey on some applications. Ford's usually are'nt bad.

2)Most calipers sold at auto parts stores are remanufactured. Know who the remanufacturers are. Look for Raybestos (or NAPA United.. which is Raybestos.. DO NOT BUY TRU-STOP or SAFETY STOP napa products... china special)
-A1 Cardone is a popular rebuilder..they're nationwide and have a great warranty.
-Raybestos (I would definately recommend Raybestos' products if you dont want to fix it three or four more times) I still think NAPA runs a lifetime warranty on their UNITED brake product which is just reboxed Raybestos.

3) Yes a chilton's would help you to some degree, but again, a loaded caliper is ready to go. Easiest way. I can get you the chilton number in the morning. My chilton is currently in my center console.

4)Most commonly, brake line starts out as just that dull silver/grey color. Look for browning (rust and corrosion) especially near unions and going in and out of wheel cylinders and calipers.

Another thing to check is your rubber brake "flex" hoses. Might as well replace them as the deteriorate over time.

also do your wheel seals. And replace your rotors. If you're broke enough to turn rotors, just get the china yan throw aways

good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Could large tires cause this.

Is it possiable that my 32 11.50 15s are hard on the brakes causing this crazy lunge forward on the whole vehicle when I apply the brakes in a normal manner?

:popc1:
 

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94BattleWagon said:
Is it possiable that my 32 11.50 15s are hard on the brakes causing this crazy lunge forward on the whole vehicle when I apply the brakes in a normal manner?

:popc1:

no.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So calipers or tight brakes?

It seems to be narrowed down to either calipers or tight brake pads would this be correct? or is there anything else I should look at and consider?

thanks:thumbup
 

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First off I'd like everyone to know I am an ASE Certified Master Tech and have been wrenching professionally for 10 years. Im not trying to be cocky, I just don't feel like arguing about something I know a GREAT deal about.

94BW - There is not such thing as "tight" brake pads. Either they are worn out or they are working correctly. Bad brake calipers could cause the condition you are experiencing but its unlikely. My suggestions are as follows

1. Check the condition of the brake fluid. If it is dirty take it to a repair shop and have a complete brake flush done. This is around 80-100 bucks at most shops. Brake fluid absorbs water. If it is not flushed regularly the brake fluid loses its effectiveness.

2. Take apart the front brakes. Make sure the caliper piston will press back into the caliper. Id it will not it is frozen and needs to be replaced. Replace both front calipers. (Brakes are ALWAYS done in pairs) Make sure the caliper slides were properly lubed during the previous brake job. If they were not you most likely found the problem right there. Get new sliders and grease them with synthetic caliper grease or white lithium grease. Axle/Bearing grease, WD40, PB Blaster, and engine oil will not work. (Ive had plenty of people tell me it will...5k later they are asking me to fix the "squeak noise") Install quality brake pads. Dont get the cheap $20 pads. Get good pads. Also DONT get ceramic pads. I dont care if a parts guy says they are the best. Ceramic pads are designed for vehicles that came with ceramic pads. Broncos did not. I strongly recommend Wagner Brake Products. Raybestos also makes a good product. Install new rotors. You need to remove the 4WD hub from the old rotors by pounding out the wheel studs. After you pound them out throw them away and get new ones. The splines and threads are toast after you pound them out. When you install the new rotors on the 4WD hub use a thick impact socket to support the hub. Put the threads of the stud inside the socket and pound from the backside. If you dont want to go through all this work most auto parts stores with a quality machine shop can do this for you. After you install the new rotors on the old 4WD hubs the rotors need to be machined. If you don't do this your whole truck will vibrate when you brake.

3. Check the rear brakes for proper operation. Make sure the return springs are in good condition and not rusted badly. Make sure the rear brakes are in good adjustment. If they are not adjusted properly this could cause the brakes to feel like they are grabbing.

If everything is ok and the problem still exists my guess would be either a proportining valve or a bad master cylinder.

Hope this helps!
 

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1990EddieBauer said:
First off I'd like everyone to know I am an ASE Certified Master Tech and have been wrenching professionally for 10 years. Im not trying to be cocky, I just don't feel like arguing about something I know a GREAT deal about.

94BW - There is not such thing as "tight" brake pads. Either they are worn out or they are working correctly. Bad brake calipers could cause the condition you are experiencing but its unlikely. My suggestions are as follows

1. Check the condition of the brake fluid. If it is dirty take it to a repair shop and have a complete brake flush done. This is around 80-100 bucks at most shops. Brake fluid absorbs water. If it is not flushed regularly the brake fluid loses its effectiveness.

2. Take apart the front brakes. Make sure the caliper piston will press back into the caliper. Id it will not it is frozen and needs to be replaced. Replace both front calipers. (Brakes are ALWAYS done in pairs) Make sure the caliper slides were properly lubed during the previous brake job. If they were not you most likely found the problem right there. Get new sliders and grease them with synthetic caliper grease or white lithium grease. Axle/Bearing grease, WD40, PB Blaster, and engine oil will not work. (Ive had plenty of people tell me it will...5k later they are asking me to fix the "squeak noise") Install quality brake pads. Dont get the cheap $20 pads. Get good pads. Also DONT get ceramic pads. I dont care if a parts guy says they are the best. Ceramic pads are designed for vehicles that came with ceramic pads. Broncos did not. I strongly recommend Wagner Brake Products. Raybestos also makes a good product. Install new rotors. You need to remove the 4WD hub from the old rotors by pounding out the wheel studs. After you pound them out throw them away and get new ones. The splines and threads are toast after you pound them out. When you install the new rotors on the 4WD hub use a thick impact socket to support the hub. Put the threads of the stud inside the socket and pound from the backside. If you dont want to go through all this work most auto parts stores with a quality machine shop can do this for you. After you install the new rotors on the old 4WD hubs the rotors need to be machined. If you don't do this your whole truck will vibrate when you brake.

3. Check the rear brakes for proper operation. Make sure the return springs are in good condition and not rusted badly. Make sure the rear brakes are in good adjustment. If they are not adjusted properly this could cause the brakes to feel like they are grabbing.

If everything is ok and the problem still exists my guess would be either a proportining valve or a bad master cylinder.

Hope this helps!
wow what an awsome write up..thats exactly whats goin on...Thats awesome..
 

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I have a '93 with what sounds to be the same problem. Done the master, fluhed the lines, bleed the lines, changed the pads with raybestos, changed the rotors. almost everything. Heard that the '93's had the worst of the different types of brakes they tried on bronco's. The ABS light comes one when ever it wants, and i can tell with out looking at the dummy light and know if its on or not. There is a suttle difference in feel. But when i am going slow, like leaving for work, i'll be goin slow and start to apply presure to the brakes and it'll lock up. It was real real bad in the rain. It would constantly do it then. But after a little while, as if the brakes warm up a little or a little rust has built up and has rubbed off it would be fine. They dont stop all that well anyways but still. Dont know how else to explain it. Any one have the same problems or can help?
 

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baja_bko said:
I have a '93 with what sounds to be the same problem. Done the master, fluhed the lines, bleed the lines, changed the pads with raybestos, changed the rotors. almost everything. Heard that the '93's had the worst of the different types of brakes they tried on bronco's. The ABS light comes one when ever it wants, and i can tell with out looking at the dummy light and know if its on or not. There is a suttle difference in feel. But when i am going slow, like leaving for work, i'll be goin slow and start to apply presure to the brakes and it'll lock up. It was real real bad in the rain. It would constantly do it then. But after a little while, as if the brakes warm up a little or a little rust has built up and has rubbed off it would be fine. They dont stop all that well anyways but still. Dont know how else to explain it. Any one have the same problems or can help?
Sounds like an ABS sensor is bad. Its also possible that the exciter rings for the ABS sensor in the front are clogged with grease or mud. Check that first. If that doesn't work find someone with a scan tool that reads OBD1 ABS codes. Its should tell you what sensor is failed/failing.
 
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