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Discussion Starter #1
Well, more adventures in bronco land...

I noticed (when my starter went bad) that my driver's side rear wheel was dragging (couldn't push the bronco)

I needed to check the brakes before MD inspection anyway, so here is what I found:

Here is the one that was hanging up. If you look in the drum on the floor, you can see the pieces of pad that had come off of the rear shoe, slid around inside of the drum, and wedged into the front shoe.

No wonder the wheel didnt want to turn.




That's just a simple replacement of the shoes. No problem.

Now, here is what was under the passenger drum:



That's not brake fluid. I'm pretty sure it's axel grease/fluid/oil/whatever

Here is a closer shot:



Time to brake out the Haynes manual and figure out how to fix this thing!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
BadassBronco said:
so you neeed new shoes, an axle seal, and your drums cut, its a day fix...... nothings really that hard to do on it..
I already bought the shoes.

The drums are pretty strieight. I had them Mic'ed and they is just enough steel left to pass inspection. If I get them turned, then I won't be able to pass. (trying to save money until I can get her on the road)

I was only worried about the axle seal. I have never dealt with that before. I will do a search to see what it takes to get it fixed, now that I know what I am searching for.

Thanks.
 
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just enough steel left to pass inspection.
inspection takes off your drums and mic's them?

your kidding right?

The seal aint that hard to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
gearrat said:
geez that must suck do they also look to see if your still have your nuts :banghead
Nah, they don't bother. At least not for people who have lived in MD all of their lives. If you plan to stay in MD, they save everyone a lot of trouble, and just take them off just after birth.

That way there arent as many complaints about our vehicle laws, provisional license system, low speed limits, fees/taxes for everything, and strict gun permit laws.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
TCRIMSONK said:
Nah, they don't bother. At least not for people who have lived in MD all of their lives. If you plan to stay in MD, they save everyone a lot of trouble, and just take them off just after birth.

That way there arent as many complaints about our vehicle laws, provisional license system, low speed limits, fees/taxes for everything, and strict gun permit laws.

...actually, it helps reduce the debates about abortion too.
 

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Ahh Drums are cheap about 30 bucks at advanced auto.

As for the Seal i did the one on my 85 F150 with an 8.8 took about 1 1/2 hours total (that included a complete cleaning of the diff as well as brakes.

your looks like a 8.8 and the haynes manual is great for this one.

have fun




:cool:
 

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that sure does looks like gear lube. heres a quick test you can do. Take some of that on your finger and run some water over your it. If the water beads up its gear lube if not its brake fluid.


Brake fluid dissolves in water, where as gear lube floats on top.
 

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Axle seals and 3rd member

The real axle seal is a pretty easy job. Just a remove and replace... If you''re feeling like really cleaning things up you will have a chance to clean an paint the brake backin plate as that will be totally off when you replace the seal. If your 3rd member is leaking at all now would be the perfect time to take care of that too since you'll have the axle shafts out. And if it were me I'd do both seals since you'll have the back end in the air and you're already doing the brakes... Better to do it now while you have it apart....

I am sure you know but remember to check the ring and pinion and re-fill the rear when you're done... Depending on how long it's been leaking who knows what it looks like in there. If you need any advice on taking that stuff apart let me know but it's really straight forward.

cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The Haynes manual has two sets of directions. I think one was for a floating, and one for a non floating rear end?

Which am I supposed to follow?

I havent gotten into it yet, but Im sure I can figure it out.


Also, the Haynes says that the 8.8 rear end holds 5.5 quarts of oil. Is this true? It sounds like too much to me.


thanks guys.
 

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If anything it will mention a semi and a full floating rear axle.... I think that stock ford rear axles are semi-floating..... It's not heavy enough to require a full-floating rear axle..... Regardless it's pretty standard and the removal process should be pretty similar either way. Really it's just a remove and replace.

As an FYI... the semi-floating axle fastens the wheel directly to the flange on the outboard end of the axle shaft. You can see the flange in the photo you posted. A single bearing supports the outer end of the shaft. The berring is behing the seal that you are going to replace. While you are in there you may just want to replace the bearings and races too. This is what I remember seeing on my Bronco. The axle shaft supports both the weight on the axle (via the bearing) and the propulsion forces from the engine twisting it. The semi-floater is standard on most sport-utilities, half-ton and light-duty 3/4-ton pickups.

In a full floating rear axle, the wheel is fastened to a separate hub which rotates on two large, opposing, tapered roller bearings secured to a spindle on the outer ends of the axle housing. All of the weight is carried on the hub and two large hub bearings, while the axle shaft goes through the hub and handles only the twisting force from the engine. With more than double the bearing area, and no bending forces acting on the axle shaft, the full-floater is standard in most 3/4-ton HD and 1-ton pickups. It is the design of choice for heavier vehicles..... In this case I don't think the bronco applies...

and this is all I know....

good luck....
 

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Hey do seals both at once! Not even a month ago mine blew and I swapped it out, the not even two weeks later the other one blew. :banghead Oh, well live and learn. It is only a 4 dollar seal and if you have to do one it is easy to do them both. Dont drop the spiders, or mix up any shims cause that will be bad. Good luck say good bye to the day and expect get a little dirty.

That has been leaking for over two weeks, didnt you notice any brake fade in the rear? :shrug
 

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I had my seal go out on me last July. I brought a bucket pump from Harbor Freight and borrowed a puller. I replaced the seals, bearings, cleaned out the diff and spider gears, its fun, mind not the smell. I give badass credit for advice on this topic on how-to.
 

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It's been voted on and seconded.... Now you must do both seals..... :thumbup

50ClubCoupe said:

And if it were me I'd do both seals since you'll have the back end in the air and you're already doing the brakes... Better to do it now while you have it apart....
gobucs1 said:
Hey do seals both at once! Not even a month ago mine blew and I swapped it out, the not even two weeks later the other one blew. :banghead Oh, well live and learn. It is only a 4 dollar seal and if you have to do one it is easy to do them both.
oh yeah BTW.... There is nothing like the smell of old, burnt 90wt Gear Oil !!!! Enjoy...... :shocked
 
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