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I don't remember exactly which on I've got but I know its a Optima Red Top with 960 CCA, Works great. Is a little smaller size wise than the stock battery so you have to do something to hold it in the stock battery tray, I just cut down a ratchet strap and bolted the ends to the battery tray and it doesn't move at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
My battery just doesn't seem to turn the motor over very quick it kinda drags. Any test I can do to to isolate my problem
 

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Of course: start with a voltmeter from the starter case to the starter hot terminal, and take a reading during the slow cranking. Compare that to the battery voltage (across the POSTS - not the clamps AROUND the posts) during cranking.
 

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im running a interstate marine cranking 1000ccc iv had the sameone for 3 years and no problems(knock wood) i run a ,cb,linier amp,and a whinch.

Pretty much the same here.. I got TWO 1100 cca batts, mine cranks like a BEAST even in the cold... :rockon
 

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SLOW cranking is battery, terminals, cables, relay, or starter. LONG cranking is compression, vacuum, fuel, oil pressure, or ignition.
Something I never knew... Thanks Steve!
 

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I had the same issue a few weeks ago and it seemed to take a hair longer when sitting over night. I guess my battery was on it's way out, because my wife bought me a new optima red top and it take a fraction to start now. Also, it is a little smaller but the optima batteries come with adapters for any group, so it fits perfectly.
 

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yo,
Base Voltage Test

NOTE: Prior to running this test, turn the headlamp bulbs (13007) on for 10-15 seconds to remove any surface charge from the battery. Then, wait until the voltage stabilizes before performing the base voltage test.



With the ignition off and no electrical loads on, connect the negative (-) lead of Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter 105-R0051, or equivalent, to the battery ground cable (14301) clamp.

Connect the positive (+) lead of the voltmeter to the battery to starter relay cable (14300) clamp.

Read and record the battery voltage shown on the voltmeter. This is called base voltage and will be used in later tests.

No-Load Test

Connect Rotunda 88 Digital Multimeter 105-R0053 or equivalent to monitor engine speed.

Connect the leads of Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter 105-R0051 or equivalent across the battery terminals.

Read the voltage (base voltage).

Start the engine (6007).

Run the engine at 1500 rpm with no electrical load.

Read the voltage. The voltage should be in the range of 14.1 to 14.7 volts. If the voltage increase is less than 2.5 volts over the base voltage, perform the following Load Test. If there is no voltage increase or the voltage increase is greater than 2.5 volts, perform the Generator On-Vehicle Tests and Generator Bench Tests in the Diagnosis and Testing portion of this section.

Load Test

With the engine running, turn the air conditioner on, if equipped, the blower motor (18527) on high speed and the headlamps on high beam.

Increase the engine speed to approximately 2000 rpm. The voltage should increase a minimum of 0.5 volts above the base voltage. If the voltage does not increase as specified, refer to Generator On-Vehicle Tests and Generator Bench Tests in the Diagnosis and Testing portion of this section.

If the voltage increased as specified, the charging system is operating normally
 

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Of course: start with a voltmeter from the starter case to the starter hot terminal, and take a reading during the slow cranking. Compare that to the battery voltage (across the POSTS - not the clamps AROUND the posts) during cranking.
:armed

Welcome back Steve.

End Hijack.
 

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How do you do a load test on a battery when you don't have a dedicated load tester?
yo Joe,
I had a load tester w/V gauge, but someone borrowed it while I was away
Here is one that is similar;
Schumacher BT-100 100 amp Battery Load Tester
$27.02 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping
http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-BT-100-Battery-Load-Tester/dp/B000AMBOI0

Harbor Freight etc have em too.

I take em to local NAPA for a free test; Auto Section Mngr @ local Wally Mart is good too for many free tests; some other WM locations need a full day to get you in for anythAng free


Battery Testing Procedure TSB 91-10-10 for 85-91 Bronco, Aerostar, Econoline, F-150-350 Series, Ranger; 85-90 Bronco II; 89-91 F Super Duty, F47, F-53, F-59; 91 Explorer, etc.
 

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How do you do a load test on a battery when you don't have a dedicated load tester?
Put a load on it, and observe voltage with a digital multimeter across the posts (not the clamps AROUND the posts). Use the headlights for a small load; add the blower on hi for a slightly larger load; the starter or winch is the heaviest load.

But any dealership should have a good tester like this:

 

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I think we need a sticky on how to use a multi-meter to test batteries. I know you can test the posts like Steve mentioned (on the post not the battery terminals) to see if a cell is down. When cranking the motor there shouldnt be more than a volt or two drop . If you see like a 3 or 4 volt drop then you have an open cell.
 

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I really appreciate the collaborative effort some of these threads bring about.

In looking that the TSB that miesk5 presented, if I understood it properly, for the most part we need to load the battery for 15 seconds with a 325 amp load to properly test it.

Headlights are 65 watts each, combined 120 watts approx and therefore only a 10 amp load. Add all the other lights and we are up to about 20 amps total. The blower on high adds another 25 amps (at most).

Based on the above, it seems to me that the only way to draw enough amperage is to the crank the engine for 15 seconds, but unfortunately I have no idea how many amps it takes to crank an engine, and of course I am sure that will vary.

Overall we don't want the battery to drop below 9 volts, (at freezing with the load on) and should recover to 12.4 volts in 2 minutes.

A fully charged battery is 12.66 volts.
 

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The nominal starter draw is 140-200A.



That uncertainty & the lack of a calibrated load is why MidTronics high-frequency testers instantly became the industry standard. Load testing is virtually useless. Either have it tested with a MidTronics, or just watch your voltmeter.
 

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The nominal starter draw is 140-200A.



That uncertainty & the lack of a calibrated load is why MidTronics high-frequency testers instantly became the industry standard. Load testing is virtually useless. Either have it tested with a MidTronics, or just watch your voltmeter.
Why is load testing useless? If you're using the min/Max function on your fluke while cranking and monitoring voltage; doesn't that tell you if your battery is capable of putting out enough amps? Not debating; inquiring.

Sent from my MID7012 using Tapatalk
 

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SLOW cranking is battery, terminals, cables, relay, or starter. LONG cranking is compression, vacuum, fuel, oil pressure, or ignition.
learn somethin new everyday.

thanks.

i have a 850cca walmart beast.

it gets the job done.

may get the interstate 1k... just to do it, over the summer.
 
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