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Discussion Starter #1
Ok Friday night, the wife went to visit the kids in Sac Town and I get to spend time on my Bronco all weekend. So...... started running some new vacuum lines. While I was running new lines to the EVP I happened to notice that it had an extension plugged into it. I took it off, opened it up and inside is a resistor that measured 15 ohms and the other lead is just wire attached to the plugs ends. Anyone know what this thing is? I know that the engines that I see at the JY do not have this on them.

Thanks Much!

Glayd
 

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Discussion Starter #2
OK did some more searching around here and I think this thing is to eliminate the EVP sensor. Well guess it ain't gonna be doin that no more. I'll see how it runs without it in the morning.
It don't look like none of the ones Ryans got on his site tho:
http://rjminjectiontech.com/collections/egr-eliminators

but I bet it was to do the same function.

Thanks All


Glayd
 

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ive got one of the ones from Ryan's site hooked up to mine and it always throws a code about the EGR valve not opening, So if you were getting that code that could have been the case is it was a EGR eliminator so it didnt make it run rich all the time. Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ive got one of the ones from Ryan's site hooked up to mine and it always throws a code about the EGR valve not opening, So if you were getting that code that could have been the case is it was a EGR eliminator so it didnt make it run rich all the time. Keep us posted.
Yep it was throwing a code 35 after a couple hours of driving. That's why I'm replacing all the vacuum lines. I've replaced everything else even the electrical connections and never could find it. Now without the "eliminator" in place I get no codes but it seems to be running like sheet. Guess I got some work to do today. I will keep yas posted what I find.

Thanks,

Glayd
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok guys might need more brain power on this. With the eliminator removed, I get no codes but seems to be running rich now. I'm gonna unplug the battery and let her sit for an hour. Do I need to reset my timing? I'm at 14 now on my SixLiter Tune up.

Thanks,


Glayd
 

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I've got that stupid code 35 too, along with 44, and 13, in my Money Pit.
 

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Soon, I am going to run tests on the check valves, and diverter valve. I have already replaced vaccum loines, and the check valve on the cross-over tube, evp sensor, egr solenoid, o2 sensor, fp regulator, and a jy smog pump, (whose bearing is making noise :duh). I caught my egr valve sticking, and I un-stuck it by tapping it with a metal object. I am wondering if the solenoid rack has to be perfectly set in a certain way, and not tilted left or right?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Soon, I am going to run tests on the check valves, and diverter valve. I have already replaced vaccum loines, and the check valve on the cross-over tube, evp sensor, egr solenoid, and a jy smog pump, (whose bearing is making noise :duh). I caught my egr valve sticking, and I un-stuck it by tapping it with a metal object.
LOL yep I know how ya feel. There is now nothing on this engine that hasn't been replaced at least once in the last 7 months. Funny thing is when I bought her 7 months ago from a farm up in Clovis it was a real POS. Dirty oil, leakin radiator, made ungodly noises, ran terrible, overheated, etc. Got 6 to 8 MPG at best. And.......the day I bought it I took it to get smogged so I could change the title and the fooker passed! Now $8K later I doubt it would pass LOL!
 

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Mine runs really good for the $3500 I put into it over the last 4 years . I passed smog well last year. The only issue is the CEL comes on on a cold motor. I can drive it 30 miles and the check engine light will flash intermittantly all the while, and never stay illuminated fully. Once I shut the engine off, and do some shopping, I can climb back in, and the light won't do it again. This makes me think it is a check valve, smog pump, or cat.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
To follow up:
Left the EVP eliminator resistor out of the circuit, unhooked the battery for a couple hours while I finished running new vacuum lines. Drove for about 2 hours and she runs great, no codes except 11, and NO CEL!! WoooHooo!

Next Round is on me!:beer


Glayd
 

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Can't see it good in the picture but from what I can tell it looks the same
as what my '90 F250 parts truck had, a black-plastic-boxed-up plug-in
resistor that was about 15 ohms. It was hooked up in series with a certain
smog-related-solenoid and the '90 F250 ZF-EEC threw a code without it
on there because the resistance of that solenoid without it was not what
it was expecting it to be.

Following the algorithms in the '91 Ford E/E-D I fiNgured out that's what
was going on.

What I'd done wrong was swapped the '90 ZF-EEC to the '91 Bronco and
the '90 ZF-EEC didn't like the resistance of the '91 Bronco's smog part. ;)

Funny thing to me is how there's three different resistances...
'91 Bronco part
'90 F250 part
'90 F250 part plus the added-on resistor

Question in my mind is...
Was the '90 F250 part a mistake and the resistor a factory band-aid?

"Ford never learned how to make the same part twice ;)"
-my Chevy buddies

I wrote this all out over on FTF* I can dig it up and post the resistances
and other details here if you want 'em.

Alvin in AZ
*Ford Truck Fanatics
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Can't see it good in the picture but from what I can tell it looks the same
as what my '90 F250 parts truck had, a black-plastic-boxed-up plug-in
resistor that was about 15 ohms. It was hooked up in series with a certain
smog-related-solenoid and the '90 F250 ZF-EEC threw a code without it
on there because the resistance of that solenoid without it was not what
it was expecting it to be.

Following the algorithms in the '91 Ford E/E-D I fiNgured out that's what
was going on.

What I'd done wrong was swapped the '90 ZF-EEC to the '91 Bronco and
the '90 ZF-EEC didn't like the resistance of the '91 Bronco's smog part. ;)

Funny thing to me is how there's three different resistances...
'91 Bronco part
'90 F250 part
'90 F250 part plus the added-on resistor

Question in my mind is...
Was the '90 F250 part a mistake and the resistor a factory band-aid?

"Ford never learned how to make the same part twice ;)"
-my Chevy buddies

I wrote this all out over on FTF* I can dig it up and post the resistances
and other details here if you want 'em.

Alvin in AZ
*Ford Truck Fanatics
So is this thing supposed to be there on the EVP? She runs pretty good without it. Hoping to break my 14.7 MPG now but not sure it will happen cause I can't seem to keep it below 3500 rpm.

Thanks!


Glayd
 

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The Haynes manual has wiring diagrams in it. There should be a symbol code regarding electrical symbols somewhere on the net. I have a mechanics book with a symbol code in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The Haynes manual has wiring diagrams in it. There should be a symbol code regarding electrical symbols somewhere on the net. I have a mechanics book with a symbol code in it.
Thanks Daves88
I got me a Haynes manual when I bought the BKO months ago. There is no reference to a resistor in that circuit so I'm gonna just chalk it up to something the PO did to bypass the EVP. Runs good now. Today I'm takin out that crossover and cleaning everything up. What a beach that is to get to.

Thanks!

Glayd
 

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Thanks Daves88
I got me a Haynes manual when I bought the BKO months ago. There
is no reference to a resistor in that circuit so I'm gonna just chalk it up
to something the PO did to bypass the EVP.
Thanks!
Glayd
Not so quick. ;)

Clean it up and look at it close and I betchu'll find the Ford
engineering number on it.

I checked and yeah, it's attached to the EGR's EVP solenoid.

Alvin in AZ
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Not so quick. ;)

Clean it up and look at it close and I betchu'll find the Ford
engineering number on it.

I checked and yeah, it's attached to the EGR's EVP solenoid.

Alvin in AZ
here's another pic from the ford site. They don't know what it is either. No part numbers on it whatsoever.
Looks to me like it's been hinkyfied LOL
 

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here's another pic from the ford site. They don't know what it is either.
No part numbers on it whatsoever. Looks to me like it's been hinkyfied LOL
That's it! :)
That picture helped me remember it, wadded up red wire and all.
There's something about it in the E/E-D that makes the part "legit".
The Ford number was on a white label now that I think about it.
It all looks like to me a last minute band-aid to correct a screw up.

Alvin in AZ
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well thanks everyone for the info. I'm a gonna leave it out. My BKO runs like it should now and I don't get any codes except code 11. Actually the big thing that I did over the weekend, running new vacuum lines and replacing the crossover tube hopefully will put me over 15 mpg. My old crossover tube was held on by rust I think or gunk probably. The bolt on the passenger side was completely gone and the driver side one was loose as a goose. The diverter valve was gunked up also.
So thanks everyone once again for your help!


Glayd
 
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