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what to do??

  • Leave the truck as is on 37's and keep wheeling her.

    Votes: 2 9.1%
  • Wait a few months for the 40's trim the fenders or run glass

    Votes: 1 4.5%
  • Pay the same for 42's as 40's ? add a 2" body lift and either fender trimming or glass?

    Votes: 19 86.4%

  • Total voters
    22
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Discussion Starter #1
What to do?? I recently jumped up to 37's on the fourdoor. Now im wanting to go up to 40's. The only issue i have is that 40's are outta production for a few more months...but i can get a set of 5 42's today for the price of 40's....what to do! I have body lift that i drop on the bronco to gain another 2" and maybe drop the coil buckets an inch and take the sawzaw to the fenders...this will be done right, with body work and paint..whatta ya'll thinks?? If the body work is too high, im thinking fiberglass fenders and everything similar to GKR's build.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I will run the same style of tire, this will still be used in the same manner, just need your opionions on this build. I dont mind cutting fenders since they all have rust.
 

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well so far the 42s have 100% of the vote. but since only 2 people have voted might be a little to early to tell
 

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Do you have the gearing in place to run 40's or 42's?????
 

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I personally would leave the 37's on and wear them out before moving up in size. Baby steps.
 

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Here is the problems your going to run into with 42's.

Gears
Drive shafts
Lift
axles (your going to need a 35 spline D60 for the front)
Wheels
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

ask me how I know..:cry
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Here is the problems your going to run into with 42's.

Gears
Drive shafts
Lift
axles (your going to need a 35 spline D60 for the front)
Wheels
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

ask me how I know..:cry
well i have the yukon 4.56 gears, drive shafts after the doubler or the atlas and lift will be minor, with major fender trimming. As far as wheels goes, i was thinking about doing weld on beadlocks on stock wheels...still not sure if that will even work! $$$$$$$$ tell me all about it!
 

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4.56 and 40's, no way!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think you should put on 54 inch boggers and give me those 37's :thumbup If you went with the 40's,that would give you time to prep for them such as lift. 42's might put you in a rush.
thats what im thinking...id just hate to get the 40's and wish i got the 42's for the same price... when i ordered the 37's i sorta knew i was gonna want to go 40's soon, i just didnt know how soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Some jerk who was reading this poll must have gone and bought up 4 of the 6 42's that were offered up to me....some one:tinfoil wemt up to Discount and repeated my story to the sales man and pickup the tires....so i went there this morning only to have the guys great me with a WTF why did you buy the tires from anther Discount! I was as shocked as they were! SO now, i have to wait for them to dig up 2 more 42's or just wait:smilie_slap guess it wasnt meant to be! I'll post up a crazy ass pic that ya'll wont believe of a 42 next to a 37 that will blow your mind! Those damn tires are huge...i bet they are 1/2" shorter than a 44" bogger!
 

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.i bet they are 1/2" shorter than a 44" bogger!
yup, they are. finally someone has stepped up to offering tires true to size.

i disagree with a lot of people here. if you are smart about the way you drive 42s will be fine for a while. it will give you time to work the bugs out and see what clears, how it performs, what needs to be better etc. if the tires are really that tall tho, you will want at least 5.13 gears tho. around town it will suck to drive.

i wouldn't spend a dime on driveshafts until you at least get your transfer case/gearing situation sorted out.

and i would lift it a little bit, but i wouldn't do a body lift. i can only imagine the frame flex/body tweaking on a 4 door being worse than a 2 door. and a body lift will make that worse too. cut the fenders for sure, but i'd do that anyway so i wasn't looking at rust. i'd find a way to lift it with spring too, the rear should be easy, the front is just a matter of finding springs you like. i think 42s, gears, lockers, crawler box, and more lift and that thing would be unstopppable any place it could fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Everything that you said hit the nail on the head! I didnt want to go past 4.88 because i hear that the rings get weak after that. I wasnt gonna build driveshafts till after i decided on a atlas or a 1356/1356 doubler from D&D, im sorta sold on that kit right now. As far as a body lift goes, i plan on doing a combo of a belly pan/internal roll cage/ boxing the frame combo to stop that. The other solution is to drop the coil buckets up front like 1 1/2" or so. Deaver wants $500 for a set of custom 6.5" coils for a bronco, i think thats to much, so i'll try to stick with the 5.5's for now. Those guys claim that they will do anything for anyone to get the product out there, when i called the dude was talking me outta it because "its not something that we have a market for", i told him just give me a qoute and we can go from there....he paused and said "their gonna be $500 a pair, and i cant budge on that." Who asked him to budge??? Rant over..back to the build. I am confident that i can build my D60/10.25 to be very dependable! The only thing that i cannot get a strait forward answer on is can you weld aluminum beadlocks to a stock superduty wheel??
 

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till after i decided on a atlas or a 1356/1356 doubler from D&D, im sorta sold on that kit right now.
honestly, i don't think a 1356/1356 would be all that great. crawl ratio would be good, but you can't twin stick a 1356 for the ability to do front digs. that would be very helpful with such a long wheelbase. a 1356/205 is ideal, but you gotta do some trickery on the 205 to get it to work right.
Deaver wants $500 for a set of custom 6.5" coils for a bronco, i think thats to much, so i'll try to stick with the 5.5's for now. Those guys claim that they will do anything for anyone to get the product out there, when i called the dude was talking me outta it because "its not something that we have a market for", i told him just give me a qoute and we can go from there....he paused and said "their gonna be $500 a pair, and i cant budge on that." Who asked him to budge???
in their defense, i bet nearly everytime someone calls up with a request for custom springs and asks for a quote the next question they ask is "i know such and such or raced this race and almost finished can you hook a bro up?" its just the nature of the business so they get used to dealing with it. theres more to it than just adding two or three extra loops to the coil, and tooling and labor costs. they aren't really in the custom business so much as they are in the production business, so really what you are paying them for is to stop work on making production stuff and take the time to switch over to something else, then back to production. i don't think $500 a pair is ridiculous, they will be the last springs you buy unless you decide to go with coil overs, which IMO wouldn't really be worth it for you.
The only thing that i cannot get a strait forward answer on is can you weld aluminum beadlocks to a stock superduty wheel??
sure you can, but you're gonna need to find a confident TIG welder who won't mind welding standard aluminum plate to what is most likely a forged wheel, and then you'll have to pay him for quite a bit of labor if you want them to balance out well.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yep everything you said is exactly what i was thinking Andy! We will see what comes of this. If i can find my 63' then the fourdoor gets the back burner in order to finish my truggy.
 

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Call me crazy, but I wouldnt mess with the truck at all...keep the 37's, fix that rust and keep churnin mud!

I am biased, though, because your truck is my favorite on FSB.com.
 
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