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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This weekend I went off a sweet jump (Napoleon Dynamite reference:thumbup), and upon landing, my truck quit when it rolled out of the mud. Turned out one of the connectors coming out of the silver box on the drives side fenderwell (without it plugged in, I get no spark I found out), had become unplugged. The connector clips are broken, and they're all corroded. I want to cut out the old plugs and put some new plugs in their place.

What do you suggest for a good weatherproof/waterproof/better type of connector? Do I need to go to the extreme of weatherpacks? http://www.weatherpack.com/pages/900555/index.htm

I could just solder & heatshrink over the wires, but, I like the option of being able to unplug things should need be.

Also, what components underhood CAN'T be submerged (besides the air filter obviously)? Anything I need to relocate within the cab or to some kind of sealed container? And if I relocate to a sealed container, then there's no airflow, will "it", whatever it is, be OK?
 

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Honestly, if you plan on running your truck in the mud or water often the weatherpack idea wouldn't be a bad one. Idealy you don't want to get your distributor, coil, carb, and ignition box wet or soaked without first making them water tight. You could make a small water proof box to place your ignition control module (the silver finned thing on the drivers' side fender with two semi-round plugs) in. This way if you need to change it out all you'll have to do is open the box and unplug the unit, undo a couple of screws and out she comes. Be warned though, you don't want it to overheat. Make sure it has come ventilation to it. This is just one idea of many. Hope it helps some.
 

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If you going to the trouble of replacing the plugs for your ignition box (the silver one) and your worried about water, mount it inside the cab. And the weather packs wouldnt be a bad idea either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah mud & water is very common...I'm working it to where I can drive in water up over my hood should I ever want to.:toothless

The ignition control box is the one giving me problems when it got the connectors wet/unplugged. What's the box over on the passenger side then?

I'll have to find a way to relocate the coil then higher up out of the way? Or will having dielectric grease packed into all the boots and coil wire seal up the plug wires?

That doesn't take care of the 2 wires leading to it though...
 

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A few guys around here move there ignition box and some electronics into the cab of the vehicle, they are easily accessible then and usually stay half way clean and dry. if you still want to be able to disconnect things put the disconnects in the cab and waterproof any other splice
 

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Dave88LX said:
Yeah mud & water is very common...I'm working it to where I can drive in water up over my hood should I ever want to.:toothless

The ignition control box is the one giving me problems when it got the connectors wet/unplugged. What's the box over on the passenger side then?

I'll have to find a way to relocate the coil then higher up out of the way? Or will having dielectric grease packed into all the boots and coil wire seal up the plug wires?

That doesn't take care of the 2 wires leading to it though...

If you plan on going that deep you might want to consider running a snorkel from your carb to the outside of your cab, to keep the water out of the carb. What does the box on the passenger side look like? The only things I can think of are the starter solenoid, and your ac/heater box..:confused:
The dielectric grease is a good idea also. Some other areas you might want to check are your oil fill hole and pcv hole in the valve covers, the transmission and oil dipsticks, the cap to your power steering pump, your ac/heater box (if you have one), and any holes in your firewall. Make sure all of these areas are water tight as getting water in them could lead you to being stuck in the water! Hope this helps you! :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That's another thing I have to figure out. The passenger side valve cover has no holes in it, but, the drivers side has a little metal "filter" like thing on top, with the PCV valve plugged into the top of that, and I have to figure a way to seal that up somehow.

I wouldn't mind a 3G alt if I can find one cheap enough. Probably out of the JY, and save myself a bunch of wiring too. But the box I'm talking about, I get no spark when it was unplugged.
 

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just a thought, i know a lot of people that run silicon on there derby cars around there plugs where the boots meet, it mite sound extreme, but its an idea if it ever becomes a problem at all
 

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Dave88LX said:
That's another thing I have to figure out. The passenger side valve cover has no holes in it, but, the drivers side has a little metal "filter" like thing on top, with the PCV valve plugged into the top of that, and I have to figure a way to seal that up somehow.

I wouldn't mind a 3G alt if I can find one cheap enough. Probably out of the JY, and save myself a bunch of wiring too. But the box I'm talking about, I get no spark when it was unplugged.

If I'm picturing this right, that is the oil filler cap with a hole in the top of it for the PCV valve. Can you post a picture of the box you're talking about?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There on top of the drivers side valve cover:



Here's what I have right now...can't really tell but it's a rag:
 

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Don't forget about the battery, dipstick, trans fill tube (if auto), axle breathers, trans breather (if auto), valve cover breather, etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What do you reccomend doing with the battery? I would actually like to run a second battery, I don't know if I should put one on each fender like the diesel trucks do, or, relocate them to the back of the truck...

Didn't think about the trans/engine oil dipsticks, good call. They SHOULD be sealed up top with an O-ring under the dipstick, I will have to check.
 

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yep...that's exactly what that is. It's your oil filler cap with the PCV valve inserted on the top. Interesting setup on your power steering pump by-the-way. Also...if you think about it the stock air cleaner setup would be a better choice if you're going to be getting water in your engine bay like that. It provides a lot less chance of getting water down the carb. If you do decide to use the open air filter like that consider using a foam filter around it also. It'll help keep the mud and dirt out of your air filter. I also noticed you removed the ac compressor in the second pic? Oh yeah...something else that just came to mind...a little tip I guess you could say. We all know the doors in these old truck leak around the bottom if submerged. MOVE YOUR DIMMER SWITCH OFF THE FLOOR!!! hahah...seriously, I had my last truck in water up to the hood and when the dimmer switch got wet...there went my lights. Just a tip from the wise. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Appreciate the tip on the dimmer switch! Didn't think of that.

Yeah I actually went back to my STOCK filter setup. After a day of mudding, I took the housing off and the filter was wet, because the housing around it is all cracked, so I said screw this, I'm getting another filter and picked up that one.

Well, THEN it got wet AND muddy, so, I just went back to my stock filter setup. I want to find a new (used) one for my truck without all the cracks in it though. Rather it just be wet than wet and mud caked.

That's a York A/C Compressor, wasn't hooked up before, so I took it off. Make it into OBA someday.

Yeah my PCV is plumbed right into my cap there. Is there a better way to do this? That "cap" isn't even sealed against the valve cover! Maybe it's generic?
 
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