Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
i recently got a 79 bronco, and i'm looking at getting a 6" lift for it
i was thinking about getting the skyjacker 6" lift kit
what would be the best kit to get? superlift? skyjacker? etc...
thx
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
Welcome to the board......Before you start,you should introduce yourself in the Noobie forum and a word to the wise for future reference.The SEARCH button is your friend.

Onto your question,I would have to ask what size tires do you want to run first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
i have a superlift kit on my 79 bronco and havnt had a problem with it. i would look at how complete each kit is. some well sell just the basics, like the front coils to lift the front and a combination lift block and add a leaf for the rear. then you have to buy an adjustable trac bar, dropped pitman arm, radius arm drop brackets and extended brake lines. plus you might want to replace all the bushings in the front end( c-bushings, radius arm bushings and trac-bar bushings).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
here is the deal..
i currently own a 78 ford f250, but i've always wanted a bronco.. and the body on the f250 is junk. the drive train has a d44 up front and a d60 back, both with 456 gears, 460 engine c6/np205.. i was wanting to put the drive train in a bronco..
the size tires i'm looking to run is around a 38x15 or somewhere around there.
plus i'm wanting to put some of the 3" cut-out fender flairs on it.
thx

RaisedIIPerfection thx for the tip
 

·
www.easttn4x4.com
Joined
·
2,191 Posts
I run a similiar set up with 44's and a 8" lift on the springs and a 3" on the body. I want to put in cut outs and lower the body. 6" with cut outs and 38's will go together nicely. The F-250 will make a great donor. As for which lift kit, I'd reccomend a cheap one. :rebelflag
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
gub ni, what brand of lift are you running?
 

·
Cadillac of Men
Joined
·
3,787 Posts
BDS or JBG. I have a Skyjacker and it doesnt flex, it just leans. Those two are the best ones I have seen. Not the cheapest, but they are nice. Or you could just built a lift kit piece by piece. You dont need some of the crap you would for a TTB. Coils, drop pitman, drop trac bar mount, extended radius arms or drop arm brackets, rear leafs or blocks, ubolts and other misc bolts, and shock.

BDS
JBG
 

·
scrounger extrordinaire
Joined
·
4,775 Posts
for more savings, there are guys on here running 6" & no drop brackets, just 7* bushings. if you were to move your shock mounts up on the axle tube, you could use stock shocks i would think.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
I have to agree with SquattyD the JBG kit is the most complete, best flexing kit I could find. The other option is to do it yourself. Depending on how much time and enrgy on fab'ing you want to do. You could extend your radius arms, buy the JBG coils ($160) and do a rear shakle flip by getting another set of front spring hangers ($50) and placing them in the rear with shakle pointing down. The trickest cheap set-up for the rear could be using the shakle flip plus those 62" chevy leaf spring the toy guy have been using . This would take more work but my friend's toy flexes awesome :wacko . Hope this helps. FB

My rig currently runs a 4" skyjacker lift with big fender triming and 39.5 Swampers. I am getting everything together to do the project I just described.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
i really appriciate all the feedback
thx!
 

·
Welcome to the jungle
Joined
·
678 Posts
familybeast said:
The trickest cheap set-up for the rear could be using the shakle flip plus those 62" chevy leaf spring the toy guy have been using.
I would think those springs would make it too squirrely for daily usage.

I'm happy with my skyjacker 6" coils. My lift consists of the said coils, trac bar drop bracket, drop pitman arm, stock length radius arms, and 7 deg bushings in the front. The nice thing about no drop brackets is it doesn't hurt your ground clearence anywhere.

For the rear, I built some brackets to flip the shackle, gusseted the shackle, re-drilled the axle perchs and top plates to move the axle back 2" on the springs. I've also got some wierd helper leaves that were on the truck when I got it. The limit compression, but so far this hasn't been a problem. They do, however, give me a little more control on the road. I'm really impressed how well this Bronco handles for 35" tires and no - AS bars.

As far as swapping the drivetrain out of your F250, You wouldn't be changing much. All you really need to change is the rear axles (Dana 60 for 9") and the front knuckles, hubs, spindles, etc. Your F250 most likely has a heavy duty D44 front. While this does have beefier hubs and such, the axle housing doesn't have the mounts for the three link coil suspension found on Broncos. There is a possibility that you have a Dana 60 front. If so, your two easist bets would be, either go leaf spring in the front, or weld the required mounts on the Dana 60.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
lift, and axle

Lonestar_Bronco said:
I would think those springs would make it too squirrely for daily usage.

I'm happy with my skyjacker 6" coils. My lift consists of the said coils, trac bar drop bracket, drop pitman arm, stock length radius arms, and 7 deg bushings in the front. The nice thing about no drop brackets is it doesn't hurt your ground clearence anywhere.

For the rear, I built some brackets to flip the shackle, gusseted the shackle, re-drilled the axle perchs and top plates to move the axle back 2" on the springs. I've also got some wierd helper leaves that were on the truck when I got it. The limit compression, but so far this hasn't been a problem. They do, however, give me a little more control on the road. I'm really impressed how well this Bronco handles for 35" tires and no - AS bars.

As far as swapping the drivetrain out of your F250, You wouldn't be changing much. All you really need to change is the rear axles (Dana 60 for 9") and the front knuckles, hubs, spindles, etc. Your F250 most likely has a heavy duty D44 front. While this does have beefier hubs and such, the axle housing doesn't have the mounts for the three link coil suspension found on Broncos. There is a possibility that you have a Dana 60 front. If so, your two easist bets would be, either go leaf spring in the front, or weld the required mounts on the Dana 60.
well i definately have the heavy duty D44 front on the f250
i was looking at both the d44's today (one on the truck and the other on the bronco) i see what you mean buy the f250 not having the coil spring things...
would it be easier for me to keep the d44 in the bronco and put all the 8 lug conversion parts off my other one on it?... i would also have to swap the gears :(
i'm sure this has been covered.. and i'll do a search after this but... people who do d60 swaps up front.. how do they keep the coil springs?
 

·
scrounger extrordinaire
Joined
·
4,775 Posts
you dont need to change the knuckles. just everything from them out. the complete kits are nice. JBG sells them complete down to the brake lines. very nice. they are superlift kits right? unless you get a used kit or have your leaves custom made for whatever reason (military wraps, 10 leaves, whaatever) a complete kit would be easiest. i got my basic kit cheap used so i had to buy a few extras to complete it. what size tire do you want to run? i plan on 39.5s or 40s possibly 44s for that special night out on the town. thats what you gotta decide first i think. i made my U bolts long enough to add 2" blocks in case i wanted 6" later. but i think i can stay at 4" and fit up to 42s with the trimming i have now. we have to weld the <> pointy things to the D60 axle tube and the radius arms bolt up like factory. or pretty close. and i will give you a tip, when you do the 8 lug upgrade and you have all that stuff apart, thats when you should have the gears changed. either pull the axle and take it up to a shop then, or put it all back together without the shafts and drive it up to get regeared. its cheaper. you still have to take it all back apart to install the shafts that you should have new ujoints put in as long as they are out and easy to get at, but its a matter of money -vs- time. you can pay extra to have the axle regeared with the shafts in. and pay them to do the U joints as long as they have the shafts out. had i known, i would have unbolted the drive shaft & brake line and taken it to the shop while i was doing the 8 lug stuff, heck i have 4.10 gears & carrier already.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top