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Discussion Starter #1
so this is the second bronco ive owned. this is my 89' 5.0 been stroked and bored to a 331ci. auto tran rebuild with different gears. dana 44 and 8.8 axles 4.88 gears with powertrax lockers both front and back. only 2 inch lift right now 35s. gets bout 18 mpgs :) a small sound system. custom bumpers and sliders. and got her in may of 2010. but ive got lots of ideas lol whats new. :thumbup name wise im thinking of naming her Iron Maiden or Dieblo Caballo (Spanish for devil horse :goodfinge)

heres a pic of her.


this is what ive been thinking of. yes i know its funny looking. did it in paint :brownbag



and with the top off to see the cage



I have already been planing on swapping in a dana 60/10.25 axles in. the tires would be round 42s? and coils and 3 link the front and coils with 4 link in the back. bobbed the tail end. custom cage. and ether a 460 efi or the turbo powerstroke diesel? and im thinking 4.10 or 4.88 gears with selectable air lockers.

im wondering if any one else has done something close to this and also what others think bout it? if anyone has pictures of others i would like to see.
and also what engine would be best and what gears? :rockon thanks for the help again. i cant wait to get started on her lol
 

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Discussion Starter #3
if i can get a whole donor f350 i would have the drive train and engine then i just find a lift kit or an universal 4 link system and alittle bit of fab work which i like doing anyways. i dont think it would take as much as it looks like
 

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if i can get a whole donor f350 i would have the drive train and engine then i just find a lift kit or an universal 4 link system and alittle bit of fab work which i like doing anyways. i dont think it would take as much as it looks like
Correct.. If you can find a F350 4wd complete the swap in my opinion is very easy and straight forward...
 

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IMO if you're going to lift a truck THAT damn high a bronco is a bit on the short (length) side.. i'd rather just take the f-350 (if its a regular cab) and lift the piss out of it...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
im looking at 2 f350s right now. one has the psd and a 4 inch lift the othen has the 460 with a 6 inch lift and 4.10s already and 38s. and i figured i would only need 6 more inches of lift so round 8 to 10 inches of lift to fit 42s? i could still do leaf springs front and back if i had to for the time being?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i would end up moving the back tires back bout 5 to 6 inches and the same on the front so it would be a foot longer on the wheel base. i want a good trail rig with out spending to much money and i can do the fab work at my uncles shop so thats no big deal ether.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
with the axles being 5 to 6 inches further and 8 to 10 inches lower than stock to the t-case the pinion angles would only need to be moved up 2 to 4 degrees up to keep stock drive shaft angles also if i did the math right? ill gain almost 8 inches of lift swappin in the dana 60 with the 6 inch lift springs and i just move the front spring mounts up 4 inches which keeps um behind the custom front bumper also. i think the state law for lifts in utah is like 10 above stock if i remember right, so itll still be street legal if i ever wanted to drive it on the streets. and for the back springs i just need to get shackle flips. the bob would only be bout 8 inches at most. the wheelbase would be close to an jeep
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i have started with a tape measure, and its no taller than a 3rd of the broncos on here. the wheelbase will be 12 inches over stock (105") so itll be 117" and basically a 10 inch lift. so i dont see where the problem is? just cause itll look better and work better than all you Na sayers (which your all missing the point, someone with a bronco is trying to build a bad ass trail rig) :goodfinge. plus itll have an turbo PSD or the 460!

heres a pic of where the leaf springs would be. remember its done on paint

 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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With the front axle thar far forward youll run into a few problems. First up is your tires will be in your core support. My front axle is only 1.5" forward, but my 42s hit the core support on stuff bad enough that i had to trim the crap out of it, and even move the core's body mount, as have others as well. At 6" forward, id expect your tires to be hitting your headlights.

Next is mechanical steering, or lack thereof. After ~2" forward, your stock steering will no longer work. At 6" forward, youll have to either move the steering box forward on the frame (this is most likely gonna put the box inside the core support, and possibly interfere with the radiator), or go to full hydraulic steering and forget about driving it on the road.

And finally the other major item i see, is your front leafs. In case you havent noticed, all leaf SAS's put the front spring eye right at the end of the frame, and only get the axle forward ~1-2". So now youll have to extend the front of the frame 4-5" to get the leafs to stick out that far, but that kind of negates any gains by pushing the axle forward, IMO. Of course, this doesnt matter if you go coil.


Out back the only problem i see, is that youll have to move the gas tank elsewhere, or risk smashing it with the rear axle. The rear spring hangars can move backwards on the frame ~4" if you ditch the rear bumper, so you could get most of your wheelbase stretch right there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thank you reptillikuss. that helps alot and i didnt even think bout the steering assembly and the gear box stuff. so i decide to just move the back axle back and i need to decide on a 4 link system or leafs for the back. ill use leaf on the front with the shackle reversal and 6 inch lift leafs to get me the 8 inches. ill run some where between 38s and 42s for tires.

i remeasured how much the bob would be. it would be round 16 inches. i would have to move the fuel tank anyways. if i go with the diesel ill have to get a new tank anyways also.

now i need to decide to get the f350 with the 6 inch lift and 38s for 1800 and runs great or the f350 with the 4 inch lift and 35s and the banks turbo powerstroke diesel runs prefect for 1800 also.
so is the lift and tires better than the turbo diesel or is the turbo diesel better than the lift and tires?
 

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With the front axle thar far forward youll run into a few problems. First up is your tires will be in your core support. My front axle is only 1.5" forward, but my 42s hit the core support on stuff bad enough that i had to trim the crap out of it, and even move the core's body mount, as have others as well. At 6" forward, id expect your tires to be hitting your headlights.

Next is mechanical steering, or lack thereof. After ~2" forward, your stock steering will no longer work. At 6" forward, youll have to either move the steering box forward on the frame (this is most likely gonna put the box inside the core support, and possibly interfere with the radiator), or go to full hydraulic steering and forget about driving it on the road.

And finally the other major item i see, is your front leafs. In case you havent noticed, all leaf SAS's put the front spring eye right at the end of the frame, and only get the axle forward ~1-2". So now youll have to extend the front of the frame 4-5" to get the leafs to stick out that far, but that kind of negates any gains by pushing the axle forward, IMO. Of course, this doesnt matter if you go coil.


Out back the only problem i see, is that youll have to move the gas tank elsewhere, or risk smashing it with the rear axle. The rear spring hangars can move backwards on the frame ~4" if you ditch the rear bumper, so you could get most of your wheelbase stretch right there.

all this stuff leads me back to thinking you'd be better off just starting with a truck that already has the longer wheel base.. if you started with a reg cab truck, it seems to me you'd just have to bob the rear end some and you'd be all set.. perfect wheel base and all. plus it'd already have the engine/axles in it you want..
 

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When and if you do ever build something like that, you won't need to ask anyone how to do it.
 
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