wheel bearing torque
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Joined
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33,867 Posts
yo;
here are the t's the Ford Serv Manual for our 96 (this is for 3 screw cap auto locking hubs & 1 locknut):
"While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten to 68 N-m (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn).Tighten to 1.8 N-m (16 Lb-In)."
....
MUD, here is the Font Bearing Locknut Socket (# OTC-6795 for 95-96); it is diff from earlier years!!!
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6795.html
...
see many hub swap article Links in my web site.
Beerman has a good one for our years:
http://fullsizebronco.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=1314&s=8312#content
here are the t's the Ford Serv Manual for our 96 (this is for 3 screw cap auto locking hubs & 1 locknut):
"While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten to 68 N-m (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn).Tighten to 1.8 N-m (16 Lb-In)."
....
MUD, here is the Font Bearing Locknut Socket (# OTC-6795 for 95-96); it is diff from earlier years!!!
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6795.html
...
see many hub swap article Links in my web site.
Beerman has a good one for our years:
http://fullsizebronco.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=1314&s=8312#content
hey thanks miesk5, my emloyer has "AllData" program and I just got the wheel torque spec's there also. plus I got lucky and found the wheel lock nut tool from the Matco guy for $20, havent tried it yet tho. N E way thanks for the help, my info is same as yours
edit: just checked your link to toolwharehouse found i couldve saved $10 but nice to kno i have the right tool..right?
oh well
edit: just checked your link to toolwharehouse found i couldve saved $10 but nice to kno i have the right tool..right?
oh well
check the other post http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9350
Joined
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33,867 Posts
Mud,
yo,
The Ford maint, etc. CD is great for our year. has the OBDII, MAF & other stuff in it as well as the new design hub, which you have found out to be much diff from earlier years. BTW, if you swap to manual hubs, that socket will be a collector's item cause you'll lost aht nut in the swap and will need the older type socket...nice of Ford to do that, huh?
yo,
The Ford maint, etc. CD is great for our year. has the OBDII, MAF & other stuff in it as well as the new design hub, which you have found out to be much diff from earlier years. BTW, if you swap to manual hubs, that socket will be a collector's item cause you'll lost aht nut in the swap and will need the older type socket...nice of Ford to do that, huh?
YUP THANKS FORD!!! Seems kinda nice, but then ya just gotta wait till u find that right guy who needs it in a hurry...
then presto... cha ching! ...
... not..
thanks for the help, got mine apart and back together, hey while
I gotcha, what do u do about greasing the hubs. mine have a
nasty, clay like grease in them, its gummy and hard. the bearings
had very little grease and it was burnt, N E way what do u
recommend?? whats the trick??
then presto... cha ching! ...
... not..
thanks for the help, got mine apart and back together, hey while
I gotcha, what do u do about greasing the hubs. mine have a
nasty, clay like grease in them, its gummy and hard. the bearings
had very little grease and it was burnt, N E way what do u
recommend?? whats the trick??
Joined
·
33,867 Posts
yo Mud,
Some great info from da Juice:
"The hub cap screws, go SNUG on these only. Seen too many too
tight little bitty cap screws snap off. I use locktight blue, just a
little, near the thread end, to keep them from loosening. You can also use a little high temp silcone gasket maker on the screw heads to help fight water entry right where the screws heads enter the cap. There might be a general torque setting for these, but there are two different kinds of screws, and several makers of the manual hub caps, and they all fit just a bit different, so going by feel and using the locktight/silicone seems to work best.
With hubs, keeping them clean is critical, so the hub seals are also a critical piece to keep in good shape, as is using the best possible grease you can ( I use valvoline synthetic)...only thing on my truck, besides steering components, where I use synthetics. NEVER use too much grease, so many people do this. Hub manuf. warn of greasing up their hubs too much
when you install them, no warranty if you do. Also, the bearings need to be packed, and a little grease left around the bearing, and on the spindle where they ride, and maybe a light coat inside the hub just keep keep any potential moisture from rusting components, but a bunch of grease is not needed nor good packed all inside the hub or out on the hub and axleshaft ends.
.....
from me... via Ford Tech CD for 96 Bronco - auto locking hubs:
"Installation
1. Align the fixed cam retaining key on the cam assembly (garter spring inboard) with the keyway on the spindle. Firmly press the cam assembly on the wheel retainer nut.
2. CAUTION: Improper sequence of three-piece thrust washers will result in excessive wear of assembly.
Install three-piece thrust washer set (first metal, second plastic, third splined) and retainer lock ring on C-clip. It may be necessary to push the axle outboard from backside of knuckle. Be sure retaining ring is seated in groove properly.
3. CAUTION: Rotate moving cam stop (use any one of three) to the one o'clock position in relationship to the fixed cam retaining key.
CAUTION: Do not force body assembly into front disc brake hub on rotor if body assembly will not fit. Recheck alignment of all components.
Note: The hubs should not be packed with grease. Too much grease will damage the hubs and prevent proper operation.
Install body assembly into vehicle front disc brake hub and rotor by lining up the three legs outside the hublock body with the three pockets in the cam assembly.
4. Make sure body assembly is in far enough to see groove in rotor tube. Install large lock ring into groove of hub. Be sure lock ring is correctly seated.
5. Install cap to body assembly. Install three capscrews and tighten to 4-6 N-m (35-53 lb-in)."
Some great info from da Juice:
"The hub cap screws, go SNUG on these only. Seen too many too
tight little bitty cap screws snap off. I use locktight blue, just a
little, near the thread end, to keep them from loosening. You can also use a little high temp silcone gasket maker on the screw heads to help fight water entry right where the screws heads enter the cap. There might be a general torque setting for these, but there are two different kinds of screws, and several makers of the manual hub caps, and they all fit just a bit different, so going by feel and using the locktight/silicone seems to work best.
With hubs, keeping them clean is critical, so the hub seals are also a critical piece to keep in good shape, as is using the best possible grease you can ( I use valvoline synthetic)...only thing on my truck, besides steering components, where I use synthetics. NEVER use too much grease, so many people do this. Hub manuf. warn of greasing up their hubs too much
when you install them, no warranty if you do. Also, the bearings need to be packed, and a little grease left around the bearing, and on the spindle where they ride, and maybe a light coat inside the hub just keep keep any potential moisture from rusting components, but a bunch of grease is not needed nor good packed all inside the hub or out on the hub and axleshaft ends.
.....
from me... via Ford Tech CD for 96 Bronco - auto locking hubs:
"Installation
1. Align the fixed cam retaining key on the cam assembly (garter spring inboard) with the keyway on the spindle. Firmly press the cam assembly on the wheel retainer nut.
2. CAUTION: Improper sequence of three-piece thrust washers will result in excessive wear of assembly.
Install three-piece thrust washer set (first metal, second plastic, third splined) and retainer lock ring on C-clip. It may be necessary to push the axle outboard from backside of knuckle. Be sure retaining ring is seated in groove properly.
3. CAUTION: Rotate moving cam stop (use any one of three) to the one o'clock position in relationship to the fixed cam retaining key.
CAUTION: Do not force body assembly into front disc brake hub on rotor if body assembly will not fit. Recheck alignment of all components.
Note: The hubs should not be packed with grease. Too much grease will damage the hubs and prevent proper operation.
Install body assembly into vehicle front disc brake hub and rotor by lining up the three legs outside the hublock body with the three pockets in the cam assembly.
4. Make sure body assembly is in far enough to see groove in rotor tube. Install large lock ring into groove of hub. Be sure lock ring is correctly seated.
5. Install cap to body assembly. Install three capscrews and tighten to 4-6 N-m (35-53 lb-in)."
New member here, so I can't create my own thread till 30 posts. I have searched, but am having an issue with installing my new hub/rotor assembly.
First off I have a 95 5.0L w/auto hubs. I know they are trash, they will be replaced just bad timing and this brake job is costing me a fortune. Lol
So I had to purchase the new hub/rotor combo. Bought new bearings, greased them, installed them in the hub with the seal. Installed on spindle, torqued the "wheel retainer"/spindle nut to 68 ft lbs, wheen is almost impossible to turn. Backed off 90, torqued to 16 ft lbs, wheel still barely turns.
These are brand new raybestos hub/rotor assemblies from summit. This truck has abs, I am not sure if the abs ring is rubbing or if there is another issue. Any suggestions/previous problems others have experienced that I can explore?
If it is the abs ring, is there a set distance it is supposed to be away from the sensor? Is this something I can adjust on my own?
Thanks for your time
Nik
First off I have a 95 5.0L w/auto hubs. I know they are trash, they will be replaced just bad timing and this brake job is costing me a fortune. Lol
So I had to purchase the new hub/rotor combo. Bought new bearings, greased them, installed them in the hub with the seal. Installed on spindle, torqued the "wheel retainer"/spindle nut to 68 ft lbs, wheen is almost impossible to turn. Backed off 90, torqued to 16 ft lbs, wheel still barely turns.
These are brand new raybestos hub/rotor assemblies from summit. This truck has abs, I am not sure if the abs ring is rubbing or if there is another issue. Any suggestions/previous problems others have experienced that I can explore?
If it is the abs ring, is there a set distance it is supposed to be away from the sensor? Is this something I can adjust on my own?
Thanks for your time
Nik
Hey @nlexpcoa, you can always post in the newbie section with no problems, 0 post requirement for that section..
Props for digging up a 14 year old thread..that might be a record..you'll get more visibility if you start your own..:thumbup
when you're seating the wheel bearings you should be simultaneously turning the hub back and forth to make sure it seats evenly..a big mistake most people make is to crank the inner lock nut down to hard..try backing it off and starting over. If that fails we have quite a few threads on the site that cover the procedure in detail.
Also, make sure you fill out the detail info for your rig.
Props for digging up a 14 year old thread..that might be a record..you'll get more visibility if you start your own..:thumbup
when you're seating the wheel bearings you should be simultaneously turning the hub back and forth to make sure it seats evenly..a big mistake most people make is to crank the inner lock nut down to hard..try backing it off and starting over. If that fails we have quite a few threads on the site that cover the procedure in detail.
Also, make sure you fill out the detail info for your rig.
Ok, so I did some investigation and called raybestos, they sent me the hub/rotor assembly for a 5/95 older bronco instead of the up to 4/95........ so that explains it.
Now I find out the wheel seal for a 95 w/manual hubs is like $4, but with auto hubs like mine is $20. So I'm will have to search more and see what the difference is.
I thought I did put a signature, will have to go back and see what I did wrong.
Now I find out the wheel seal for a 95 w/manual hubs is like $4, but with auto hubs like mine is $20. So I'm will have to search more and see what the difference is.
I thought I did put a signature, will have to go back and see what I did wrong.
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