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Discussion Starter #1
Just replaced wheel bearings (inner and outer with races) on the front, and was a little concerned with how tight the wheel feels. Having used liberal amounts of grease, I can imagine that things will loosen up a little with some driving as the grease spreads out.

I have 2 spindle nuts with a washer between. I tightened the first to 50 ft.lbs, and backed off and retightened to 30 ft.lbs. Then put on the washer and I tightened the second to about 150 ft.lbs.

There was no play, but the wheel would turn with some resistance (feels like heavy grease resistance if that makes sense). It does not, however, continue to spin after i push it.

Am I too tight? I would hate to wrech a new set of bearings when I could just back out a nut a little bit. On the other hand, I don't want to be retightening next week either.

Thanks
 

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sounds to me that they are to tight. I would tighten the first nut down then back it off about 1/4 turn. grab your rotor afterdoing this and pull out then push in, see if there is any play. you will feel the play if too loose. if any play tighten a smigen then recheck. once you feel no play then put washer in between and the second nut tighten down to about 125-150 ft lbs. you should be good after that. I will always check my hubs for warmth after driving. They should be warm but not HOT. If they are HOT then they are too tight or not enough grease. Hope this helps
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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You did it wrong. I hope you didn't overheat and damage your new bearings or break down the grease. Check out Steve83's SuperMotors.net web page, click on the Brakes & Hubs album, and find the diagram of your setup. There, you'll see how to properly torque the nuts. :thumbup
 

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green ones make me horny
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Since im in a good mood. here is what i found on it. I dont know what year model you are working on but this is off of steve83s page. click thumbnail to make it bigger

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the advice. My truck is a 90 Bronco with manual hubs - probably should have mentioned that with the first post.
I recognize that diagram from the haynes manual.

The truck is still in the garage, I've got plenty of other work to do on it, so no time to damage anything yet.
 

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Your mistake was retightening the inner bearing to 30 foot pounds. You torque it once (to 45-50 IIRC) then back it off 1/4 turn. No further tightening. The outer nut is correct at 150 pounds, but it shouldnt make the bearings any tighter if the washer is installed correctly.

If you do it that way it will be fine, but as other mentioned pushing in and out for any play is good practice in case something out of the ordinary happens.
 

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Some of the years specify end-play, some specify none.

Also, it's important to turn the wheel while torquing the inner nut.
 

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Super Moderator
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yo!
end play = less than .006"
right?
 

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I've always tightened the bearings to 50 to 75 lb/ft to seat them, backed off a 1/4 turn, then tighten the nut until it just touches. This generally leaves 0 to 5 thou end play. When I was in the business there were so many methods it was tough to keep up with them all, but they were all similar. I settled on this as a generic method and it worked on hundreds of vehicles with no problems.
 

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tighten the innner, spin the rotor to seat them correctly then back it off 1/4. the washer and the outside nut hold them tight not the inner one.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the advice. I went back in and backed her out about 1/4 turn. Its hard to tell if there is much drag anymore because the calipers are providing the resistance now. But I feel a lot more comfortable with it now.
 

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Don't neglect the above information. Overly tight bearings will self-destruct within miles. I've seen the result of over tightened bearings. A buddy of mine ignored the growling sound coming from the front suspension. She ended up badly scoring the spindles on her police vehicle. Her department hit her with a vehicle abuse reprimand.
 

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I just ran into a simular problem on my 79.

Driver side went off with out a hitch, then moved onto the pass side.

First nut tightened to 50lbs and then backed off 1/4 turn. Outer nut installed and set to 150lbs. now the wheel does not move. Pulled it a part and the nut spun on the spindle and stripped it out. So now i need a new spindle. original poster may want to check that.

After this issue over the weekend i spent most of the day calling around to see what i did wrong. the general consensous was that i way over tightened the outer nut (got original info from Chelton manual).

Is 150lbs on the outer nut correct? I am very worried about this deal and will be taking my driver side apart to inspect the spindle for any damage.

I am hoping and praying that 150lbs is correct. i dont see how less than 50lbs could hold the entire wheel assembly on.


Thanks for your help
 

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if you want to feel how it spins pull the caliper off and then put the tire back on and spin it without the brakes dragging . wing the tire around hard it should spin for 20 or 30 seconds with say a 33 x12.5 on it.
If it goes around twice and stops its way too tight.
 

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Did you put the lock washer on? The lock washer prevents the inner bearing from rotating as you tighten the outer locknut to 150 pounds.
Yeah, you mean the one that goes over the pin and into the slot on the spindle. If thats what you are talking about, yes. It is what spun, turning the inner nut as well and scoring the spindle.

So 150 on the outer nut is correct?

Thanks
 

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so was i! :cry

the key must have been some what rounded off, it spun with the inner nut.

I took the spindle off last night and the key hole was slightly damaged by it, so i am guessing that the lock washer had a slightly rounded edge that i did not see before installation.

I should have gotten a new set of spindle nuts, but i have done wheel bearings on my 81 for years and i still have stock spindle nuts on that, but i guess the former owner of the 79 didnt install it correctly at one time or another. :twak

thanks for the info man.

I let you you know how it goes when i get my new spindles.
 
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