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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Starting problem. Nuetral safety switch fail!

I think I have found out the starting problem with my 89 Bronco. I think it is the fuse link D, that goes between the ignition and the starter solenoid....I just have no idea where it is located. I have done a search on this site and cannot find any thing.

Please help me out if you can.

Thanks
 

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also;

Location pics in an 85 & 89 (between the starter relay and alternator)"...the first two pics are of an 89 5.0. because of the loom i wasnt able to trace the wires...The second pic is at the starter relay to show you a fusible link wire (the green wire in my fingers you can see at the eyelet there is a black plastic block). the third pic is of my 85. i think that big block is another style fusible link ford used on older stuff (but im not sure)..."
Source: by shift1313 (Matt) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Location pics in an 85 & 89 (between the starter relay and alternator)"...the first two pics are of an 89 5.0. because of the loom i wasnt able to trace the wires...The second pic is at the starter relay to show you a fusible link wire (the green wire in my fingers you can see at the eyelet there is a black plastic block). the third pic is of my 85. i think that big block is another style fusible link ford used on older stuff (but im not sure)..."
Source: by shift1313 (Matt) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Location pics in an 88
Source: by mrwp819300 at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/20466/69565
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you. That is helpful but, I am looking for the location for the one on the ignition wire that goes from the top of the solenoid to the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok so I was looking around and moving some wires when one came completely out of the connector and was broken off inside. I think I pin pointed my problem. I will replace it tomorrow and post the results and I will know for sure which wire is fuse link D!
 

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yo; ok
Comcast messed me up; I lost Matt's URL when trying to enter it here and my pc just stayed on empty..
here it is with the pics; esp #2..
http://broncozone.com/topic/15953-no-spark/page__st__20

and I couldn't get back here because my Cable conn was DEAD...again;\so here is Yardape's diagram showing D.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok. So I fixed a wire that came off too easily while I was poking around under the hood today. It did not fix the problem. So I started to continuity check the wires and connections but had to go to work before I could finish. I am kinda stuck though.

It turns out that I was looking at the wrong wiring diagram before. :banghead Doh! So fuse link D is the wrong thing to look for.


I am trying to trace the wires that go to and from the starter switch, from the starter relay. I just cannot figure out which wires to track. The colors coming from the relay I do not see on the diagram. I was testing one that is black w/yellow. I think it is a different color when it gets to the other side of the big firewall connector!

I am using the same diagram that is posted above and it says it's not the right one. Can you tell me what color wires I need to test?
 

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yo Dog,
I'm going w/Ryan's diagram in my first reply - Red/LtBlu; it goes back from starter relay thru the Neutral Safety Switch (in below info, BigUgly88EB and ElKabong refer to it is da safety switch) and then to da IGN Switch;

here is da skinny on it;

No Start Troubleshooting in a 90; "...First thing to check is wiring. Between the large posts of your starter relay (it's not a solenoid) should be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch that turns the starter over. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit.
Next, check your upper ignition actuator. Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem.
Lastly, check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column). Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily. & If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to a park/neutral safety switch. If it's a stick, check the clutch switch. You could try jumping from hot to the small terminal on the solenoid to test it's operation. Sometimes new ones are bad out of the box.
If it won't turn over when jumped to the small terminal, you'll know that it's a solenoid issue (Bad part, bad ground). If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the small circuit that includes the ignition switch & the park/neutral safety switch (Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or MLPS on a 90 with an E4OD).

There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the safety switch, to the small terminal on the solenoid. Disconnect the small wire to the solenoid (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is..."
Source: by BigUgly88EB and ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at FSB
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just what I needed!

I definately assumed the relay was good out of the box I will test it and double check it's ground. I will also look at the park/nuetral safety switch and recheck the starter switch "ignition rod". I bet it's one of those things.

You da man miesk5! Very helpful. Thanks alot!
 

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yo, Thanks allt hose who developed that tech too my friend!

The relay is grounded thruogh its "body"... make sure the inner fender area where it mounts is clean and free of rust/crap and it is tight to the fender.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok I checked everything I said I would and no dice. The only thing I have not throughly inspected is the Park/nuetral safety switch. I will have to visually inpect it and test it with the multi meter. By that drawing it looks like the last link! I will probably do it on saturday or sunday and then I will post back up!
 

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yo Dog,
ok, that NSS seems to be a problem due to those March rains.
Someone else has an 80's bronco NSS issue here; will post the URL to the Post later so you can get additional info on wiring. Other than what Steve83 and Fireguy has which I have already posted here for ya.

I'll be away until Sunday sometime..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Good info thanks miesk.

I crawled under and looked at the NSS, and it looked very rusty and worn. I want to replace this anyway, so I will see if it is the problem after I do.
Oh yeah I took it off and disconnected the female plug attached to the NSS from the male end that attaches to the body. It seems that Napa gave me what initially looked like the right part but it had a male end attached to it! And last time I checked two males trying to bump their poles together does not make a baby! So now I have to go and get the right part tomorrow morning. Ill post back up later.
 

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yo Dog, OK...
I believe Jeff's has photos of em; http://broncograveyard.com
GL!
Also, can you snap some pics on the NSS and conenctors?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes. I will get some pics I forgot to take em yesterday. I will put up some of the old one that I removed when I get home and maybe some more of it's location.

I returned the NSS that I got from Napa today. I found out that my truck has a 1990 sensor and wiring even thought it is a 1989. It must have been a late production for 89. So I need the 1990 NSS. Napa could not get it at all. So I shot across town to advance and they had to order it, but they could get it in two days. So I will get even more pics when I go and put the new one in.

By the way I have the electrically controlled C6 tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Here is what I think failed there is a crack all around where the electronics are wired. this is sealed completely in the replacement part. (will have pics of the new part when it comes in).

Here is the connector...

Here is the outer side...
 

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yo DOG
Thanks much! That will help others a lot; esp w/model changes mid-year, etc.

As for "By the way I have the electrically controlled C6 tranny"
I think you have an AOD.


AOD - E4OD Identification;
"If the shifter has a P-R-N-OD-D-1 pattern, the transmission must be an AOD (applicable to 1980-1993 vehicles).

If a 1989-1993 truck has an Overdrive Cancel Switch and a P-R-N-OD-2-1 shifter pattern, then it is equipped with an E4OD transmission. With the possible exception of some 4R70W equipped 1993 E-150 vans with 5.0L SFI engines (The existence of a 1993 4R70W van is unsubstantiated).

1994 and later vehicles with four speed automatic transmissions will all have an Overdrive Cancel Switch and a P-R-N-OD-2-1 shifter pattern, but may have either an E4OD or a 4R70W transmission. All 4.2L, 4.6L and some 5.0L engines use the 4R70W transmission, while diesel, 4.9L, 5.4L, 5.8L, 6.8L and 7.5L vehicles always use E4OD’s. You can measure the transmission fluid pan to determine which transmission you have if identification information is not available. A 4R70W transmission pan has an overall length of just under 15 inches, while an E4OD pan is much larger, measuring about 20 inches in overall length. "
Source: by Baumann Electronic Controls, LLC

C6 shifter pattern is P-R-N-D-2-1

here is a pic of the C 6 Shift Indicator

by jkorbes


Source: by Adrianspeeder
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Nope, it is a three speed, and when I changed the guage cluster, it said C6 right on the shift indicator! That looks like an older dash.
 
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