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Ford-a-Holic
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Hammering the outside of the knuckle until I'm blue in the face usually works for me. I can hit 40 times and then all of a sudden it falls out, WTF????
 

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Discussion Starter #243
Hammering the outside of the knuckle until I'm blue in the face usually works for me. I can hit 40 times and then all of a sudden it falls out, WTF????
I got it out shortly after I posted. I took off the driver's side first and it came out really easy with a few good whacks. Then I went over to the passenger side and I was hitting the stud with my 2lb hammer so much that it was mushrooming pretty good. I went back and forth between hammering and letting it soak with penetrant.


I think my problem was that I was letting the tie rods hang and possibly binding the passenger side stud. The driver's side was just hanging in the air after I had it pop out as I figured the passenger side was gonna fall out like the driver's side did. I took a jack stand and propped the driver's side up about the height it would be in the knuckle to relieve any binding their might have been then went back to hammering. It came out after a couple more rounds of hammering after that.
 

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Discussion Starter #244
It's all done now, minus torquing the castle nuts to spec and putting in the split pins. I didn't know what the specs were, so I just went as tight as I could get everything by wiggling the rods back and forth and tightening the nuts with my fingers. I'll come back tomorrow and torque it all after looking up the specs.

It took a lot longer than it should have, because I decided to paint everything the same satin black as the front diff cover, so that ate up a lot of time. I like the look of it though. If I replace enough things, one day the underside of the Bronco will be perfectly clean.

Here are the two drag links I was sent. What's funny is that I went back and looked at the box that Summit sent me and I had to remove all the brown box tape to find the label, but when I did it had the correct label, so whoever picked the box got the right box. Whoever boxed the drag link put the wrong drag link in. Oh well. The one on the left is the correct drag link, the one on the right I have no idea what that goes to, but it's... wrong. And don't mind the trap in the background, I was catching feral cats inbetween things. That's another story altogether.






I haven't done this before, but I noticed the drag link came with what looks more like a rubber spacer for the side that mounts into the tie rods rather than a boot for the grease. I can't remember what the old one had, it may have fallen off, but the tie rods came with different "covers" for their studs. Whatever, everything went on!







Old drag link and steering stabilizer. The steering stabilizer could be pulled out and pushed in very easily by hand, so there's no way it was doing anything for my steering.






Old and new tie rods. I used the old ones to get an approximate length for the new ones prior to having a legit alignment.






Steering box with pitman arm on. I actually tried bleeding the system without the steering linkage all hooked up. I don't know if that's not a good idea, but it made things easy. I didn't have both side off the ground and I was able to spin the steering wheel slowly with one finger.






View from the top. I may need to reposition the power steering hose on the top, it swivels so it's not a big deal.






Cleaned up the mounts for the steering stabilizer before painting them and putting them back on.







This is what the shop that did my gears used on the diff cover, so it's what I'm using on everything to match it all up.






Tie rods and drag link painted and mounted along with a new steering stabilizer (not painted). Just needs to be torqued and have the split pins put in.



 

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Discussion Starter #245
Almost forgot, my steering wheel! So my steering wheel sits about 90 degrees off. When the wheels are straight the wheel is about 90 degrees to the right with the bar going through the middle of the wheel pointing straight north and south instead of east and west. When I was putting my new rag joint in I had the steering wheel sitting the way it normally does with it being off 90 degrees. Well the drag link stud wouldn't reach the pitman arm when I was installing it, so I had to push the pitman arm with my hand towards the passenger side to get the stud to go in.

Now my steering wheel is 180 degrees out! It's upside down! I guess having all that bent linkage is what made the steering wheel go out of whack. I just figured someone effed with the wheel (which they may have still done) and I had planned on pulling it after I got my alignment and putting it straight again. Now I need to unhook my rag joint and spin the column 180 degrees. Well, I should say, I'll have the shop spin it for me when they weld up the frame as they'll have to remove the box anyway.

I wonder if that's why my tire on the driver's side will rub the RA at full lock going forward, but the passenger side is fine. Maybe the pitman, when the steering is centered, was pointing more to the driver's side than it should have and it turns sharper going left. Hmmm.





Yes, I still need to put the dash back together some day. :doh0715:
 

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Resident Nice Guy
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You can adjust the 180 at the steering column rubber isolator.
 

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Discussion Starter #248
The frame is repaired. I don't have a pic of it, but I may unbolt the box and take one just to see exactly how it was done.

I'm currently unable to bleed the power steering of air. I tried. The shop I took it to to repair the frame tried and had no luck. What they described to me is what I was experiencing. It's like the pump is pumping it through the box and pressurizing the system, but as soon as you shut things down it all comes back out and foams out the pump. I don't know if there's something inside the box that is blocked or what, but the system is clearly not operating as it did prior to installing the new box.

One thing I noticed when I was spinning the steering wheel prior to installing all the new steering linkage is that when the box gets close to center it's more difficult to turn. It spins freely at all other positions, but once it's at about center it's noticeably more difficult to spin the wheel. That was prior to bleeding anything.

There's also some play at the input shaft. I don't know if that's just how these boxes are, but it was kind of disappointing to see it. My F100, that isn't 4wd and has an A1Cardone cheapy box, doesn't have play like that. Obviously they're two different styles of boxes, but it's all I have to compare. Whole situation kinda sucks.
 

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Ford-a-Holic
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Out of curiosity, from center, do you have the same amount of turns, lock to lock, from left and right?
 

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Discussion Starter #250
Out of curiosity, from center, do you have the same amount of turns, lock to lock, from left and right?
Yes, that's how I noticed it getting more difficult to turn the wheel. I counted each rotation with 4 full rotations in total. As soon as the second rotation is about to finish is when you notice it and it happens for about a half turn of the wheel then goes back to being easy. This was with nothing attached to the gear box other than the steering shaft and the rag joint. I didn't even have the pitman arm on yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #251
Also, without the power steering working it's hard to determine anything else. It may be normal, but I have no idea. I'm going to talk to Redhead tomorrow and ask some questions. I just know the only change in the system, as far as the travel of fluid is concerned, is the gear box. Same lines, same pump. I'm going to talk to Redhead tomorrow, ask some questions, and see if I can troubleshoot things.

I spoke with the shop that I just had the Bronco at and we bounced some ideas back and forth talking about it after they told me how their attempt went. They used other stuff that I don't have, like a vacuum pump to see if it'd pull fluid through the box and pump. They even had a new, leftover Ford power steering pump that they said I could just have if I wanted it to try out. It was the earlier, pre-78 "pencil neck" style pump that another customer was going to use on his High Boy, but changed plans. It uses completely different fittings though, so I chose not to take it, even if it's exactly like the one on my truck. Would be a nice spare I suppose.
 

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Discussion Starter #252
Here's a video of the "play" I was talking about. It doesn't seem like much, but it's enough to make the steering wheel move quite a bit, at least I think so. I made a second video of my truck to compare. I know it's not 100% apples to apples, but it's what I personally have that I can compare to. My truck's steering is tight and all I have to do is move the wheel like 1/4" to get it to start drifting into one direction or the other when I'm driving.



 

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Discussion Starter #253
Well, I haven't dealt with Redhead yet as I've had a busy morning. However, I still have my OE box off my F100 easily accessible. I was contemplating going back to the shop and taking the pump they had lying around and getting some hoses to fit my Bronco's box. I looked at the OE box off my F100 to see what size the fittings were to see if they were the same as the Bronco's box. That's when I started twisting the input shaft on that box and remembered how these things work.

When I removed the box off the Bronco I had to drain it before sending it, so I spun the input shaft back and forth to push out the fluid. I'm assuming the fact that my Redhead box still has a bunch of play in the input shaft is indicative of it still having a lot of air in it. The input shaft isn't physically connected to the sector shaft with gears or linkage or whatever. I guess that means that the box on my F100 has less wiggle in the shaft and therefor has a lot less, or zero, air in it. I think I'm going to try working the air out slowly (rinse and repeat the bleeding instructions over and over) over the weekend and see if that works. I know these boxes are known for being difficult to bleed or at least that's what I've read on forums. So at this point, other than the steering wheel being more difficult to turn when it's at center, I think most of my complaints are simply caused from air in the system and I should wait before grabbing my pitchfork.

Also, I took apart the steering box I got as a second core. These boxes are actually pretty easy to take apart and I probably could have removed the sector shaft without taking it apart as much as I did, but I was curious to see all of the inner workings. At least I won't have to worry about the box I send leaking as it'll have no fluid in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #254
The second steering gear taken apart. I put the sector shaft in a USPS flate rate box and sent it to Redhead. Cost me $15. It wasn't cracked where the other one was, but I'm hoping the rest is ok as I have no idea what I'm lookin' at.

 

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Discussion Starter #255
Finally took the tailgate striker off on my passenger side so I can add shims and adjust it. It was one of the more difficult things I've had to do on this Bronco, which sounds stupid. It was a really awkward angle I had to work with while I swung my 2lb hammer against the impact screwdriver. Must have taken me an hour just to get those two screw out. The backside that holds the plate the screws screw into is a bit messed up, probably from me hittin' that Scheiße so hard and so much. I'll have to source a couple new screws because I messed them up pretty bad gettin' them out. Also had my tail light finally give up on me. It was on the brink of total collapse and it's now in two pieces... make that three. Two lens pieces. I can still screw it all back together, but it's pretty ghetto.







The plate that holds the chunk of metal the screws go into. This is behind the tail light.






 

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Discussion Starter #256
Got my fuel gauge working again.

Because of where I put the bulk head on my fuel sending unit for my Holley Sniper it made it basically impossible to plug in the fuel gauge wiring. It was an oversight on my part to say the least. It was the only spot I could put it when I first gave it a look. Then I realized I'd have to mod some of the sending unit and had I known that before I started drilling I would have simply put it on the other side of the fuel inlet and everything would have been fine.






My first attempt at a remedy was to take a razor and modify the factory plug. That sort of worked, but it popped off the two threaded ends sticking out of the sending unit very quickly. I saved a couple of connectors from the 75 F150 I sent off to the JY and I spliced those on so I could put them on individually and face them any direction I needed. I had to squeeze the replacement connectors a little bit with some pliers to make the circle a little smaller so they'd fit very snug on the sending unit. Anyway, it worked and the gauge is reading just over 1/8th of a tank, which from the rap I gave the tank while I was down there, that sounds about right, unfortunately.










 

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Discussion Starter #257
I'm going to install a second horn on the Bronco. I posted in the 78/79 forum showing how the OE setup would work with the wiring I found in the junk yard a while back. I picked up a second horn in the JY today for $5 and I'm going to see if I can tune it to make a different sound than the factory single horn on my Bronco. I read someone's thread on FSB a long while ago about them trying to repair their OE horn that wasn't sounding anymore, I'm not sure of the year Bronco, but they said the screw on the back of the horn would adjust the sound if you turned it one way or the other. These horns have screws on the back, so I'm gonna give that a go. I didn't get around to trying it out today once I got back from the JY, because it was stupid hot and I was done going outside.

Here's the thread I posted on the horns in the 78/79 forum.

https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/6-1978-79-bronco-tech/507134-adding-dual-oe-horns.html


I also gave that rear bumper on the white Bronco another go while I was there and still had no luck. If I'm going to get it off I'm gonna have to bring my 1/2" ratchet, a pipe for leverage, some penetrating lube, and maybe a hammer. It has an aftermarket trailer hitch that's inbetween the bumper brackets and super close to where my ratchet was hanging so I wasn't able to do what I wanted, which was to lie on my back and kick the ratchet handle which puts a shhh ton of force on it. I did that once before on another JY bumper and had luck doing that to break the bolts loose, it just requires a nice ratchet as the cheap ones will bust the ratcheting mechanism if you put that much shock to them.
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
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It's been years, but I've tuned horns before. I used 60s Ford horns. You had to loosen the lock nut, turn the screw to tune, then hold it still while tightening the lock nut. It worked well. I was able to tune 3 horns together to play a chord that sounded good. Back then Ford normally used 2, one higher & one lower. With 3 my little Ford sounded like a Cadillac of that era.

Hopefully your newer horns will let you tune them together. I think a 2 tone always sounds better than a one note.
 

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Ford-a-Holic
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If I remember correctly, they were marked with a "L" or and "H" in a circle on the back side.
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
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If I remember correctly, they were marked with a "L" or and "H" in a circle on the back side.
I remembered that there was something different between them, but couldn't remember what. That ^ sounds familiar.
 
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