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Discussion Starter #301
If you can, and the slider window gaskets into the topper happen to be in decent shape, then try to save those. You can get new ones thru JBG and I think LMC carries them too, but they're about $250 USD for the set.

The sliders I salvaged off a dead Bronco recently were easily removed by cutting up said gasket... I then facepalmed when I realized that I couldn't use some single pane seals I have kickin around. And facepalmed again when I learned how much they cost for the slider windows.
Duly noted. However, at this particular yard I think they might not let me remove the windows myself, so I might be at the mercy of whomever they have pull parts that day. Some stuff they let you pull and others they don't. We'll see in about 7 hours when they open.
 

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Discussion Starter #302
Well I got there before about half their employees did, I guess I'm just that punctual.

The sliders are a bust. They are as functional as my solid windows are now. It looks like the PO had issues with the slider track and most of the stripping around the windows and they just caulked it all shut around every inch of window. If all the stuff to fix them was available as reproductions I would consider haggling with them to get them cheap since they don't work. It would be a spendy endeavor and most likely not worth it. The outer gasket is toast as well.

I'm not sure if this truck was a burn victim or not, but whatever they sprayed on it (possibly plastidip) looks like it got torched either by fire or by a lot of baking in the sun. Oh well.

@canuckistan97 I'll make another trip today and get the parts you were looking for. I just wanted to get there early to make sure my potential score didn't get up and walk away and the yard is like 3-4 miles from my house.

It has a winch bumper on it that I sorta want. I dunno. If I had the means to modify it I would buy it and cut and weld some stuff. I kinda don't want it sticking out too far in front like it does. They want $85 for the bumper. I need a new passenger taillight and they want $25 per taillight at this yard, so I'm gonna try another yard because that's way on the high side in my experience around here.

It has an older Edelbrock intake, the pre-performer one that is kind of crap other than it being a 4bbl intake. 4bbl Carter AFB with a decent looking spacer underneath it that I may want, just the spacer. MSD Blaster 2 coil. The JY won't let me touch the engine components until they find out whether the engine is any good or not, so I guess I was right on it being a very recent arrival.

Nothing else caught my eye... well other than the exhaust. They put headers on it, ran dual exhaust on each side dumping in front of the tires and the mufflers they put on are single in dual out. They put a flange on one of the outlets and capped them for use as exhaust cutouts. Pretty clever I guess instead of putting on actual cutouts.
 

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Discussion Starter #303















Be careful with that swing-out spare! Might rip out your tailgate!





Whole thing looks like this from top to bottom.









Actually, not that clever. Cutouts go before the muffler, I don't know what they were doing. Damn I'm tired.

 

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Be careful with that swing-out spare! Might rip out your tailgate!





Whole thing looks like this from top to bottom.









Actually, not that clever. Cutouts go before the muffler, I don't know what they were doing. Damn I'm tired.

Thanks man, I'm done with classes for the day so just reply or text me whenever I'll be around. That's too bad on the sliders although I saw an old thread about remaking those tracks from felt for not too expensive. Really just those gaskets that would suck to have to buy. Also idk what the PO of that JY bronco did with the finish because it looks god awful almost as if they didnt prep the surface before applying the rhinoline and it just flaked off with time


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Discussion Starter #306
Thanks man, I'm done with classes for the day so just reply or text me whenever I'll be around. That's too bad on the sliders although I saw an old thread about remaking those tracks from felt for not too expensive. Really just those gaskets that would suck to have to buy. Also idk what the PO of that JY bronco did with the finish because it looks god awful almost as if they didnt prep the surface before applying the rhinoline and it just flaked off with time


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I'm sure they could be rebuilt if one was determined enough. I'm not! lol. They're just one of those things that'd be nice to have, but I'm not going to drop that kind of money to have them. $250 for the gasket, then whatever it takes to rebuild the rest of the weather stripping and then of course whatever they charge me to buy them from the JY. I'd rather spend that money on something else.

I got the headlight adjusters and the driver side tailgate latch. I also found another dual horn setup, so I grabbed that for myself. I've got like three of those now. If I can't find any decent taillights in another yard for $5 bucks or so I'll probably try those off Amazon. Says they are $10-11 for me.

You must have ninja edited your post after I signed off, because I didn't see the steering wheel part of it or your number. I mean, if you really want a stock steering wheel (78/79) I'm sure I can get one in the JY, but it's not going to be a nice steering wheel. They are always cracked out (all of my trucks have them like that) and most have a beat up horn cover. What's funny is one 73-79 truck I went through at a different yard the other day had a tiny wheel like you're saying. I was laughin' pretty good at it, because it had to be like 8" across if that. Like one of those little low rider chain steering wheels.
 

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I'm sure they could be rebuilt if one was determined enough. I'm not! lol. They're just one of those things that'd be nice to have, but I'm not going to drop that kind of money to have them. $250 for the gasket, then whatever it takes to rebuild the rest of the weather stripping and then of course whatever they charge me to buy them from the JY. I'd rather spend that money on something else.

I got the headlight adjusters and the driver side tailgate latch. I also found another dual horn setup, so I grabbed that for myself. I've got like three of those now. If I can't find any decent taillights in another yard for $5 bucks or so I'll probably try those off Amazon. Says they are $10-11 for me.

You must have ninja edited your post after I signed off, because I didn't see the steering wheel part of it or your number. I mean, if you really want a stock steering wheel (78/79) I'm sure I can get one in the JY, but it's not going to be a nice steering wheel. They are always cracked out (all of my trucks have them like that) and most have a beat up horn cover. What's funny is one 73-79 truck I went through at a different yard the other day had a tiny wheel like you're saying. I was laughin' pretty good at it, because it had to be like 8" across if that. Like one of those little low rider chain steering wheels.
Oh yeah lol mine is like 7-8" across its ridiculous. Definitely one of those Autozone specials haha


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Discussion Starter #308
Measured my Yellowtop battery and it came out at 7" across at the top. I ordered an aluminum battery hold down that has a matte black finish. It measures 7" from the edge of each hole for the j-hooks and 7 1/2" from center to center, so it should work for me. Like I said before, the universals you can get at the local parts store are too narrow. They must be like 6 3/4 wide. The one I had on the Bronco was rubber and I had to stress it a bit to get it to fit and after a few days it said no thanks and snapped in the middle.

I also ordered a few other items for some stuff I'll need to do sometime this next month, namely an oil change on my wife's car. Ol' Amazon put everything in the same box and the oil jug was leaking so guess what happened. I guess there's a first for everything. I've never had problems ordering oil online. This was the first time I had one shipped with the jug in a plastic baggy that was filling up with oil and leaking everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #309
Here's the hold down, nothing special, but people like pictures.









Also picked up some plastic air cleaner spacers. I need to raise up my air cleaner in order to hook up my oil filler cap to it. There are three different spacers that I can combine to get anywhere from 1/4" to 1 3/4". Just guessing without looking I think I'll need somewhere around 1".

I'll also be removing the carb spacers from underneath the carb as I don't think EFI benefits from them at all. The venturi effect seems to see more results from them, so I'll keep them for my truck for whenever that engine swap happens.



 

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Discussion Starter #310
Got the battery hold down installed, fits great and keeps everything nice and tight. It doesn't look as "clean" as it could as the factory tray has the holes for the j-hooks diagonal from each other, so the hold down is at an angle, but other than that it works great and I'm happy.

I removed the two 1" carb spacers I had under the Sniper. I got out the cut-off wheel and shortened the studs in the intake then put the Sniper back on. I used the 1" air cleaner spacer under the air cleaner and that gave me the clearance I needed to hook up a 5/8" ID hose up to my oil filler cap. I had to buy some more all-thread to make a new, longer stud for the air cleaner.

I've noticed quite a bit of "white froth" under the oil filler cap and in the oil dipstick tube since I've started driving the Bronco again. Normally people would say "headgasket", but I don't think it is. The Bronco had sat for months through fall and winter, so I think it's just condensation mixing with a little bit of oil. I'll get some pics, but if you pull the dipstick out you can see some oil and water mixed along parts of the dipstick like it's scrapping it off the inside of the tube and not pulling it out of the pan, because good, clean oil is on the end of the stick. It's weird, but that's my theory.

I attempted to fix my slight idle issue with the Sniper, but will have to try again as I ran out of time and patience. I had one guy drive past me (Bronco parked across the street from my house) as I was tinkering with things and ask me if I needed a jump... while my Bronco was running. No, sir, I do not.

So what's happening is that the secondary throttle plate isn't closing all the way when you let off the throttle. If you didn't know it, you would think it was closed 100% of the way. It's not noticeable at all from just looking at the plates down the throttle body bores, but if you press on the linkage for the rear throttle shaft you can feel it move juuuuust a little and you can hear the idle drop 250rpm. Some people have had luck with unscrewing the plates from the shaft and adjusting them to better clear the bores. Others have had to clearance the bores a little as the plates are getting hung up slightly. I'm hoping I don't have to do the latter. It's annoying, because other than this everything seems to work fine.

One other thing I'll have to change to help out my Sniper is my thermostat. Most people that have cooling issues have a hot running engine, I have a cold running one. Granted it's winter and whatnot, but this 351M is lucky to clear 160 degrees after an hour of running or more. The Sniper doesn't self-learn until you hit 160, so most of my time driving is spent with it not learning anything. I need to remove the thermostat and see what's in there. It could be that the PO put a 160 stat in there, but who knows until I open it up. I may just deal with the cold running and hold off until I swap in my 460 as it'd be a waste to buy a spendy Robert Shaw stat and then only use it a few months. I suppose I could try restricting air flow a little and see what that does.
 

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^^^^Hmmmm..... Just under the cap I might agree, but on the dipstick, I'd be concerned. I would let it sit for a day, then "crack" the drain plug and see if you get and drops of water/antifreeze. You may have to loosen the plug a little more until you see water or oil dripping.

Let's hope you are right, and I'm wrong.

As far as the T-stat; fuel injection likes to be warm, I'd go with the 180° to start.
I know Modern fuel injection likes to run in the 200° range.
 

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Got the battery hold down installed, fits great and keeps everything nice and tight. It doesn't look as "clean" as it could as the factory tray has the holes for the j-hooks diagonal from each other, so the hold down is at an angle, but other than that it works great and I'm happy.

I removed the two 1" carb spacers I had under the Sniper. I got out the cut-off wheel and shortened the studs in the intake then put the Sniper back on. I used the 1" air cleaner spacer under the air cleaner and that gave me the clearance I needed to hook up a 5/8" ID hose up to my oil filler cap. I had to buy some more all-thread to make a new, longer stud for the air cleaner.

I've noticed quite a bit of "white froth" under the oil filler cap and in the oil dipstick tube since I've started driving the Bronco again. Normally people would say "headgasket", but I don't think it is. The Bronco had sat for months through fall and winter, so I think it's just condensation mixing with a little bit of oil. I'll get some pics, but if you pull the dipstick out you can see some oil and water mixed along parts of the dipstick like it's scrapping it off the inside of the tube and not pulling it out of the pan, because good, clean oil is on the end of the stick. It's weird, but that's my theory.

I attempted to fix my slight idle issue with the Sniper, but will have to try again as I ran out of time and patience. I had one guy drive past me (Bronco parked across the street from my house) as I was tinkering with things and ask me if I needed a jump... while my Bronco was running. No, sir, I do not.

So what's happening is that the secondary throttle plate isn't closing all the way when you let off the throttle. If you didn't know it, you would think it was closed 100% of the way. It's not noticeable at all from just looking at the plates down the throttle body bores, but if you press on the linkage for the rear throttle shaft you can feel it move juuuuust a little and you can hear the idle drop 250rpm. Some people have had luck with unscrewing the plates from the shaft and adjusting them to better clear the bores. Others have had to clearance the bores a little as the plates are getting hung up slightly. I'm hoping I don't have to do the latter. It's annoying, because other than this everything seems to work fine.

One other thing I'll have to change to help out my Sniper is my thermostat. Most people that have cooling issues have a hot running engine, I have a cold running one. Granted it's winter and whatnot, but this 351M is lucky to clear 160 degrees after an hour of running or more. The Sniper doesn't self-learn until you hit 160, so most of my time driving is spent with it not learning anything. I need to remove the thermostat and see what's in there. It could be that the PO put a 160 stat in there, but who knows until I open it up. I may just deal with the cold running and hold off until I swap in my 460 as it'd be a waste to buy a spendy Robert Shaw stat and then only use it a few months. I suppose I could try restricting air flow a little and see what that does.
I got a 180 thermostat from autozone for 6$ and the gasket was 2.99 worth it imo its super easy to swap out just make sure to put it in correctly otherwise ill overheat in about 15mins lol. PO was an idiot and put it upside down, no wonder my bronco would overheat while idling


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Discussion Starter #313
^^^^Hmmmm..... Just under the cap I might agree, but on the dipstick, I'd be concerned. I would let it sit for a day, then "crack" the drain plug and see if you get and drops of water/antifreeze. You may have to loosen the plug a little more until you see water or oil dripping.

Let's hope you are right, and I'm wrong.

As far as the T-stat; fuel injection likes to be warm, I'd go with the 180° to start.
I know Modern fuel injection likes to run in the 200° range.
I pooped myself until I saw that the end of the dipstick had 3 inches or so of clear engine oil. I changed the oil in the Bronco when it was sitting all those months, so it hasn't had a lot of runtime on the oil that's in there. I also didn't notice any water when I drained that oil. If something has happened it's happened post-oil change which was like 4 months ago or so. It wouldn't be the first time I've had something dumb happen like that though. I had a '65 Dodge Coronet 440 (back before the numbers on the car indicated the engine size) with a 361 that snapped a pushrod right in half on startup one morning. They were solid pushrods too, not the hollow ones like our Fords have. Sometimes it be like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #314
Battery hold down.





Damaged my new gas tank skid plate. As long as it's protecting the gas tank I'm not worried too much about how it looks. I smacked a good sized lava rock pretty hard.







Got a little muddy.







I managed to get my engine temp all the way up to 212 today. I think that was mostly due to all the liquidy mud covering the radiator. Got a little scary when I looked at the gauge and saw that. Headed back into town and washed it all off as soon as I could.
 

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Looks like the skid plate did it's job. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #316
I checked the Bronco's oil dip stick again today and under the oil filler cap. Nothing, but clean oil as if nothing had happened, not even a little white. Weird. I wonder if it has anything to do with me having it running hot at 200+ for quite a while the last time I ran it. Maybe it was enough to kind of boil things out of there since it's usually always around 155-160ish. I drove it over to the dog park to let my dogs run around a bit and it was back to doing the usual sub-160 granted I didn't run it for very long.
 

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Discussion Starter #317
I had my daughters with me when I went over and got the Bronco muddy. They didn't want to go up any steep hills, so I had them get out and watch me. lol They made a couple of videos, but unfortunately it appears my daughter has Parkinson's at the age of 10 and I get a literal headache just watching what she recorded. I've been trying to see if I can stabilize the already recorded video, but I'm not so sure I'll be able to.

I know one thing for sure though, they wouldn't want to go anywhere like Moab with me. What I went up was fairly tame, but when you're inside the Bronco all you see is sky and it forces you back in your seat like you're in a rocket getting ready for take-off, so they didn't enjoy that.
 

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Discussion Starter #318
Scored some parts in the JY today. I'll post pics in a minute.

I also wanted to say that we went rollerskating yesterday at our local rink and I guess my 7-year-old daughter fell down and "I fell on my skate and hurt my balls" was what came out of her mouth. My wife had to explain to her that she doesn't have those. I'm assuming she heard it from some boy at school. Funny stuff. Makes me wonder what she fell on. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #319
Anyway. I managed to find a set of 460 valve covers with the coveted "Power By Ford" script. Coveted by me, if no one else. I must have looked at 10+ carbed 460's in various JYs here and didn't find a set until today. These will be going on the 460 that goes into this Bronco.






Found a decent set of red sun visors for @canuckistan97 . They'll need new anchor as these are missing the tips, but overall not in too bad of condition.






Also scored maybe the only uncracked 78/79 steering wheel ever in the JY. I was not expecting to find one and actually had to get the wheel off one truck and the horn pad from another to make this one. The only bad spots are on the trim in the horn pad on the far edge of either side next to the little ridges, it's cracked right there. I'm still debating as to whether or not I send this one with the red sun visors or if I should put it on mine and send my old one. lol






Oh and I think I found your truck in the JY @canuckistan97 .








I also saw this interesting headliner. I'm sure it'll be gone the next time I go to the JY, but I wasn't set on having it plus my hands were very full as I wasn't expecting to find everything I was looking for. It's made out of very thin wood and it looks amazing. I dug it anyway.




 

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Anyway. I managed to find a set of 460 valve covers with the coveted "Power By Ford" script. Coveted by me, if no one else. I must have looked at 10+ carbed 460's in various JYs here and didn't find a set until today. These will be going on the 460 that goes into this Bronco.






Found a decent set of red sun visors for @canuckistan97 . They'll need new anchor as these are missing the tips, but overall not in too bad of condition.






Also scored maybe the only uncracked 78/79 steering wheel ever in the JY. I was not expecting to find one and actually had to get the wheel off one truck and the horn pad from another to make this one. The only bad spots are on the trim in the horn pad on the far edge of either side next to the little ridges, it's cracked right there. I'm still debating as to whether or not I send this one with the red sun visors or if I should put it on mine and send my old one. lol






Oh and I think I found your truck in the JY @canuckistan97 .








I also saw this interesting headliner. I'm sure it'll be gone the next time I go to the JY, but I wasn't set on having it plus my hands were very full as I wasn't expecting to find everything I was looking for. It's made out of very thin wood and it looks amazing. I dug it anyway.




hahahahahahahaha thats the exact wheel I got on mine lolol. Wish I had those immaculate floor pans though, the PO's never bothered to dry out the truck when water got in just added more and more mats as rust/holes appeared


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