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Discussion Starter #381
Well thats annoying, any idea how much $$ to get it blowing cold again?


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No idea, I'm the last person that would know. If I ever add a/c to this Bronco I'm going to get rid of this giant a/c box, weld up the huge hole in the firewall, and add an aftermarket system with heat and a/c that uses the factory vents.

If you're able to find a donor with everything you need it probably wouldn't be too bad, but I'm not going on that goose chase. My F100 has an intact a/c system that works (compressor kicks on and whatnot), but probably needs new lines and a recharge, etc, but I'm in no hurry to get it working. I've just been so used to rolling everything down and catching a breeze.
 

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Discussion Starter #382
The blower wheels have these weights on them which is something I figured might be missing, but both wheel have them.




 

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Discussion Starter #383
Here are the two wheels I have side by side. The one from my Bronco is on the left, F-150 on the right. You can see how the blades are curved in opposite directions.






So, being that I work in a factory, I've seen what happens when someone on the maintenance crew hooks up an electric pump backwards. It just reverses the direction the motor spins... SO... I was considering reversing the wiring on the Bronco's motor, so that it'll spin the F-150 wheel in the right direction to actually move some air, BUT... I'm not sure if that alone would work, because is still has to shove the air out of the box. I'll show you what I mean.
 

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Discussion Starter #384
Here is a picture of the box out of my F-150. The fan wheel would have to move top-to-bottom and make the air push from the bottom of the circle, around the back, and then out the top. I think the wheel that the F-150 has would basically be pushing the air in the other direction. It'd be sending the air from the top, around the back, then back up the front and not really shove it out of the opening on the top of the box. Hence, why I think the heater in my F-150 always sucked so badly, it wasn't sending any real flow out of the box.






Looking down the barrel of the gun here.


 

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Discussion Starter #385
Anyway, I'm gonna see if I can source another wheel. I'm going to make some gaskets that are a little more legit than the old ones that are mostly gone. Hopefully after that I can button it back up. While I'm making a mess with the coolant via the heater core I'll probably investigate my thermostat and see if I can make this thing heat up a little more.
 

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Discussion Starter #386
Another short video. I took my wife across the canyon to climb a couple of things to make sure she'd be interested in going to Moab to do stuff like this.

I really hate making videos, because it never truly looks as unnerving as it does in person or how it feels inside the cab. I'd just hate to take her to Utah and have her be miserable. I went up once with her in the passenger seat and it made some scrapping noises as the bumper was dragging on the way up the rock and she had a concerned look that I ignored as I finished the climb. Then I had her record me doing it again by myself, so she could see what it looks like from the outside, no scrapping that time. I can hear a Saginaw upgrade in my future though, if you know what I mean.

P.S. Her phone makes way better videos than my old phone does. Hah!


 

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Discussion Starter #389
that first one doesnt look balanced at all


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Well now you can see why I was complaining about it vibrating the shit out of the cab when it was running! lol

I don't know what happened to it, but it's jacked up. You can't see anything obviously wrong with it when comparing it to the other wheel when it's not spinning. I even put the other wheel onto the motor that's out of the Bronco and spun it on that one to see if the shaft was bent, but it spun the same as it did on the other motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #390
I don't know how everyone else's seat belts are in their 78/79 Bronco, but I hate mine. They don't stay tight or lock up, so when you hit some bouncy stuff things get interesting. On rare occasion, if I hit something hard enough or brake hard enough at slow speeds, I can get the inertia mechanism in the reel to lock, but it's not consistent.

I'm going to pull a set of seat belts from the JY out of a 77 F100. I don't know if it's a 77 only thing, but they're the same as the belts out of the 77 F100 that I own. My Bronco has a single belt that anchors to the floor, loops through the metal latch and then goes up to the reel in the B-pillar. My F100 has a two piece system. It has one reel on the floor and one in the B-pillar. The two belts attach to the latch and the single latch goes into the buckle. Someone cut the shoulder belt off of mine, so mine functions only as a lap belt currently.








However, this lap portion locks up amazingly. I'll try to make a video of it sometime, but I pull it up, click it into the buckle and then when the slack gets pulled back into the reel I just tug it a little bit and get it to lock tight against my hips if it hasn't already. It doesn't loosen until I take the belt off and let it go back into the reel. It keeps me firmly in place, which I like. The last time I was in the JY I saw that 77 and tested the lap belt mechanism to see if it locked the same and it did, so whenever I get back there I'm going to take them and put them in the Bronco. If the shoulder portion locks the same way that's fine, but I mostly want the lap portion to just stay tight.

If for some reason they won't mount in my Bronco, then they're going into my truck. I found color matching covers (jade green) for my seat belt reels in the B-pillar, so I just need the complete belts. Maybe I can fine two sets in the JY. I'm pretty sure in the F-series trucks they started the shoulder straps in 76. My 75 just had lap belts that you cinched down and they had no reels. So, they probably had this style for 76-77, then went to the single belt in 78. That's my guess anyway.
 

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I don't know how everyone else's seat belts are in their 78/79 Bronco, but I hate mine. They don't stay tight or lock up, so when you hit some bouncy stuff things get interesting. On rare occasion, if I hit something hard enough or brake hard enough at slow speeds, I can get the inertia mechanism in the reel to lock, but it's not consistent.

I'm going to pull a set of seat belts from the JY out of a 77 F100. I don't know if it's a 77 only thing, but they're the same as the belts out of the 77 F100 that I own. My Bronco has a single belt that anchors to the floor, loops through the metal latch and then goes up to the reel in the B-pillar. My F100 has a two piece system. It has one reel on the floor and one in the B-pillar. The two belts attach to the latch and the single latch goes into the buckle. Someone cut the shoulder belt off of mine, so mine functions only as a lap belt currently.








However, this lap portion locks up amazingly. I'll try to make a video of it sometime, but I pull it up, click it into the buckle and then when the slack gets pulled back into the reel I just tug it a little bit and get it to lock tight against my hips if it hasn't already. It doesn't loosen until I take the belt off and let it go back into the reel. It keeps me firmly in place, which I like. The last time I was in the JY I saw that 77 and tested the lap belt mechanism to see if it locked the same and it did, so whenever I get back there I'm going to take them and put them in the Bronco. If the shoulder portion locks the same way that's fine, but I mostly want the lap portion to just stay tight.

If for some reason they won't mount in my Bronco, then they're going into my truck. I found color matching covers (jade green) for my seat belt reels in the B-pillar, so I just need the complete belts. Maybe I can fine two sets in the JY. I'm pretty sure in the F-series trucks they started the shoulder straps in 76. My 75 just had lap belts that you cinched down and they had no reels. So, they probably had this style for 76-77, then went to the single belt in 78. That's my guess anyway.
Yeah Mine don't lock up but I was told by another member that they're not supposed to? Idk but I would like for them to lock up


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Discussion Starter #392
Maybe they weren't designed that way, but I still don't like it. I find myself holding the shoulder strap tight with one hand and driving with the other a lot when I'm going over rough terrain. I'm one of those people that feels naked without a belt. I don't know how people drove pre-seat belts. I had a 1965 Dodge Coronet 440 that had optional seat belts when they weren't legally required. It seated 6 people, but only had 4 belts. lol They weren't required in cars by federal law until 1968.
 

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Discussion Starter #393
Got a replacement wheel from one of the JYs out of the white 79 Bronco they have there. Wasn't easy of course, like everything I ever try to pull. Also got the seat belts out of that 77 and broke my torx bit socket in the process and needed to get a new one to finish. Was not a fun day in the JY.
 

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Discussion Starter #394
Ok, got the replacement fan mounted to the motor. Made a circular "gasket" from the semi-truck inner tube I had and it is sandwiched between the motor housing and the heater box to help with vibrations. I reused the old foam gasket from my 75's heater box that mounts between the blend door and the motor. It was whole and complete, so I just figured why not.

I put the ignition key in and turned it to on, flipped the fan switch to high and a rush of ecstasy came over me (cue "Ava Maria"). No more vibration. It sounds just like my truck's fan, like a fighter jet getting ready to leave the carrier deck, but it's nice and smooth. I put the heater core back in and got all the hoses back on. I just need to finish up the ducting and hopefully never come back to this stuff or at least not for a long while.

I removed the thermostat housing while I was under the hood, so I could investigate my cold-running engine situation. The thermostat that was in there is a 180 stat. It's a replacement stat and doesn't look like the Robert Shaw type stats that people often have to put in here, but my engine wasn't overheating.

I plopped the stat into a pot of water and set it to high. It starts to open up just before 180, like maybe 177, then is fully open by about 190. That makes no sense, because my engine pretty much never gets that hot. Once it's warmer outside, like it is now, it'll slowly creep up to 170 ish if I run it long enough, but it's usually not breaking 160. Kinda scratching my head on that. I don't even have a shroud on my radiator. I'm pretty sure the new stat I bought a long time ago, that I need to dig out, looks the same as this one and is a 192 stat. I'm thinking about replacing my fan clutch, as I think it's catching a little and probably isn't freewheeling when it's supposed to, and tossing in that 192 stat and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #395
Fan clutch is marked on the part that bolts onto the water pump pulley, has the Ford ID: E-D5TA-CA. From my online search that is the correct fan clutch, but this one is obviously hurting. May even be the original fan clutch from 78.

Also, from my perusing of Rockauto and a few other online parts houses, it appears fan clutches are supposed to spin the fan approximately 20-30% of the speed the water pump spins when the clutch isn't engaged and spin 70-90% when they are engaged. This one is must be permanently locked up at 80-90% or so, I can barely turn it by hand. Guess I'll get one ordered.
 

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Discussion Starter #396
Decided to pick up a fan clutch locally at Napa rather than order through Rockauto. The cost is significantly more, but I'd like to get this stuff put together sooner than later and if I have an issue I can just run back over to Napa.

The difference in the clutches is pretty noticeable when turning them by hand. I made a video of that, but I'll have to post it later. Compared to the new one, my old one was practically seized.

Still not 100% sure what I'm going to do with the thermostat issue. I'm assuming the stat wasn't opening as my temps were never reaching 180, which would mean that the water pump was just circulating the coolant in the block and my nearly-locked fan clutch was keeping the fan spinning 100% of the time to cool things.

I need to measure how far down the bypass is in the block and see if these stats even open enough to block it. Last thing I need is a proper functioning fan clutch that causes my engine to overheat, because my thermostat is the wrong design. I'd order one from Tmeyer, but all he has is 180 stats and I want something a bit hotter. The two I currently have are 180 (one in the Bronco already) and 192 (new one that was sitting in my back room).
 

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Discussion Starter #397
Think I'm going to remove my sway bars today as well. I may leave them off altogether, but I'm going to see if I can get some removable pins to make sort of quick disconnect.

I've got some extended brakes lines coming from JBG. I'm going to attempt to get as much travel/flex out of my stock suspension as possible. Once I have the lines done and have the Bronco drivable again I'm going to head over to my mechanic's shop and use his forklift to help get measurements for some new shocks. I'd use his post lift, but I'm 99% sure it'll be in use and he doesn't mind me using his forklift.
 

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Discussion Starter #398
I decided to use the 192 thermostat that I already have. I figure if a fan running non-stop won't cause this thing to overheat then I'm probably good. I installed the stat and the fan clutch and I'm going to let everything sit overnight to cure before I fill the coolant back up as I put a thin layer of rtv on the gasket. Whoever changed this thing before gouged the crap out of the mating surface, so I can see why they gobbed on some rtv when they installed the other stat that I took out.

I opted not to fully remove my sway bar, yet. I managed to get the passenger side sway bar end link bolt off the frame. The way my headers hang right there makes it tight, but doable. I went down to Tacoma Screw and had a guy there help me out with sizing up a clevis pin to make a quick-disconnect. I have some pics and once I get to work I'll show what I did, but I think it'll work out. My only concern is that the end link is no longer being held to the frame by the clamping force of the bolt that was there. There's just enough play to allow the clevis pin to wiggle in the hole in the frame and I'm not sure about the repercussions of that.

Anyway, I ran out of time to tinker with things today, so I'll continue where I left off tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #399
Here's my sway bar end link clevis pin setup. Basically the end link is held on with the large bolt (3/4" wrench) coming in from the outside of the frame, through the end link bushing, and then a nut on the inside holds it tight to the frame. I got a clevis pin that's shorter than the bolt (2" long clevis), because that bolt is stupid long and the nut threads onto it basically all the way down the threads and leaves a good portion of the bolt sticking out. I put a hardened washer on the clevis pin, fed it from the inside of the frame, through the end link bushing, then stuck another hardened washer on and shoved a hitch pin through the clevis pin. I had to push the end link up against the frame pretty good to get the hitch pin through, so it's pretty snug, but obviously has little clamping force.







I only did the one end link, so I could sort of figure out what I want to do, but this is how it came out on the first time. I'm pretty sure I said "wow, perfect, that never happens!". I may have to order some special pins, because I'm not sure what grade of steel these pins are and the guy at Tacoma wasn't able to find out. The bolt I removed was grade 8.
 

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Discussion Starter #400
Here's some random pics from the stuff I recently finished up.

The foam gasket I was able to save from my 75's heater box blend door.






Back side was once sticky, this is what's left when the adhesive is gone.






Sitting on the blend door.


 
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