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78 Custom - 460 - NP435 - NP205 - Sniper EFI - HyperSpark Ignition - 4.56 Gears - Front/Rear Lockers
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Discussion Starter #741
Yeah, sounds strange, at least when it either worked before or like with secondaries was addressed and fixed.

i know sticking throttle, but that came from a not good cable that somehow got blocked the lever in the engine bay and not leaving to return it, short foot step on gas and falls back to idle.
The guy who gave me the tank had this,....
I haven't gotten to checking on it yet, but I'm pretty sure it's just another issue with the secondary shaft. Everything else seems to be working fine as far as the EFI goes. I'm assuming when I check it that it'll just be a little loose and I can tighten it up as others on that forum have had the same issue.

I know these Snipers have had a few revisions since they released them and their very first models had way more issues than this, like having faulty sensors out of the box. When I cleaned this one up before reinstalling it on the 460 I saw a sticker on the bottom that said this was Rev. 1, so I'm not surprised it's been slightly finicky. Other than that it operates fine. I've heard of people having issues with carbs out of the box as well, so I'm not quick to condemn EFI.
 

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78 Custom - 460 - NP435 - NP205 - Sniper EFI - HyperSpark Ignition - 4.56 Gears - Front/Rear Lockers
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Discussion Starter #742
Here's some pics of my amazing mount for my Sniper LCD. lol. It works! I have it positioned so that the base is stuck to the metal part of the dash behind the pad and then the magnetic mount on the front is resting on the front of the dash pad. I have the joints in the mount adjusted so that it's actually applying downward pressure on the dash pad, which helps keep the handheld steady when driving. This mount has a little play in each joint, so I know if I had it set up a little looser that it'd kinda jiggle a bit when going over bumps.










I placed two neodymium magnets on the tape for the mount base. They are approximately 1 1/2" in diamter and 1/4" thick. I wasn't sure how many I would need or what strength of neodymium magnet I would need, so I got a set of three and then tested them out on my fridge to see how deadly they were. I didn't want them to be too strong and potentially break themselves as they are very brittle (you can see where one is bubbled up on the edge from me playing with them and they snapped together super hard). I was actually going to use all three in a triangular pattern once I saw that it would have been reasonable, but the way their polarization was the third one was holding onto one magnet and pushing the other away like it wanted them all to go into a straight line, so I said eff it and used the two.

I had initially looked into getting a single, 3" diameter magnet that would have covered the whole thing, but wasn't sure about magnet strength. This way actually gives a little bit of play in the base and allows for the magnets to kind of contour to whatever you stick the base to, so I guess that works out.

If you go this route, be careful as they are strong and can damage your paint. You can see where I slid the magnets and yanked the mount off the dash for the pic, the magnets have paint on them. I may, and you may as well, take a piece of duct tape and cover the magnets. This would give them a slight cushion, but still be thin enough to not affect how well they stick to the dash.








Here's another location I tried out, just to see how the articulation would work out.






And then I stuck it to the steering wheel for the hell of it. The magnets are strong.


 

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78 Custom - 460 - NP435 - NP205 - Sniper EFI - HyperSpark Ignition - 4.56 Gears - Front/Rear Lockers
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Discussion Starter #743
I bought a set of return springs and was trying them out maybe a week ago. It came with what I would call the typical double return spring, which is a larger diameter spring with a smaller diameter spring that goes through it. Then it also came with two much smaller double springs which are just two of the same springs stuck together. You could separate them if you wanted to, but that's how they come.

The smaller springs are a bit too weak and short for what I wanted and would probably be more suited for something like a lawn mower, but I could see using them in a setup that has one return spring in the usual location behind the carb/TBI and then one of these in front of the carb pulling the opposite way.

I tried the dual setup and it was alright. It was stronger than the single spring I have on there now, but not by a huge margin. Then I thought... well... I'll just take this outer spring and run it over my original spring and then it'd be super stiff! lol. And it was, but it didn't fit very well at all. It did however make the pedal very evenly stiff throughout it's entire travel. I've since removed the outer spring and I'll continue trying a few other things, namely the progressive linkage, once I have some more time off to really fiddle with things.


Smaller return springs. You can see how the black ones are doubled up if you look closely.






Larger diameter spring over my original spring. You can see how they would start meshing together and binding up, not good.






I could shorten the bigger dual springs that came in that kit and really make them stiff, but I figured I'd try other stuff before I went that route. With how stiff the pedal needed to be it was really uncomfortable. Anyone that has an NP435 on a 78/79 knows how stiff the clutch pedal can be. This spring setup made the gas pedal at least as stiff as the clutch pedal if not harder. It would fatigue your leg quick on a long trip for sure.
 

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78 Custom - 460 - NP435 - NP205 - Sniper EFI - HyperSpark Ignition - 4.56 Gears - Front/Rear Lockers
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Discussion Starter #744
I installed my overflow tank a while back as well. Like my radiator, it is also made by Champion. Interestingly, the mounting holes on the overflow tank match the two center mounting holes on either side of my radiator. They are spaced too far apart to line up with the upper holes. Out of convenience I decided to just mount it to the middle two holes as it really doesn't matter, it's just aesthetics. It doesn't need to sit at the top or higher than the radiator. They do supply you with pop rivets and some mounting brackets to locate it where you want, but I didn't want to do that.

I wanted to put it on the passenger side, but unfortunately due to the way the inner fender is shaped, the inlet and outlet for the tank hit the inner fender when the tank sits this low. The driver side inner fender is shaped differently, probably due to the power steering gear, and the inlet and outlet clear it easily. So, that's where I put it.

Another unfortunate thing about placing it on the driver side is that the outlet on the radiator neck that connect the overflow hose to the overflow tank is angled towards the passenger side. So, this makes everything look like crap. lol. I'll probably drill some holes on the passenger side of the radiator and relocate it over there at the height I'd like at a later time, but for now it seems to work out where it is, even if it does look stupid.


Driver side. The tank sits right over the frame rail.







Passenger side. You can see how the inner fender covers the frame rail and that's where it gets in the way.





Less than ideal for aesthetics.





 

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78 Custom - 460 - NP435 - NP205 - Sniper EFI - HyperSpark Ignition - 4.56 Gears - Front/Rear Lockers
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Discussion Starter #745
I also took the time Saturday morning after work to unsnap the sides and the rear of the Softopper and roll them up to see how things worked out. The canopy is surprisingly stiff, including the vinyl windows, when rolling it up. I was careful on how tight I made each roll as I didn't want to mess anything up (crease) on the new canopy. I basically rolled things up tight enough that the straps and buckles would barely snap together when fully loosened. Other than that, everything went smooth and it's, well, super awesome!

Later in the afternoon I got ready to go into work again and on my way out the door I decided to check out the rolled up canopy again. The driver side was facing the sun and that side of the canopy was ridiculously pliable. I was able to comfortably double up the tightness of the roll and cinch the straps up pretty good. I walked around to the passenger side which was in the shade and it was a bit stiffer, but still easier than the original rolling up. It's interesting to see where the temperature threshold is for making the canopy super pliable.

When I went to work I passed a digital sign out in front of a local bank that tells the temp and it said 97* (it sure felt like it), so the super pliable driver side was in 97* heat with direct sunlight. The passenger side was in the same heat, but with shade, so I'm not sure on the actual temp of the material, but it was definitely lower. The temp out when I originally rolled up the canopy was somewhere in the 60's. I can see why their website says that if you retract or close the canopy when the temp is below 40* you may void the warranty on the vinyl windows, because they can easily crack. I can only imagine how stiff the canopy would be if it was that cool out.

I'll give more updates on the top as I mess with it and try it out. I want to retract it convertible style soon and see how that works out. It comes with a boot cover to cover it in when it's laying all the way down near the tailgate.
 

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1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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some thoughts:
why Champios does the small pin in the direction they do? totally senseless from my point of view, either left or right exit.
if this is unblocked I can t understand why the radiator is dropping water from cap instead through that pin hole into the canister.

springs:
why not install the spring counter the direction it should move? to have it pulling back.
I mean: throttle linkage is pulling carb level to rear, hence mount the return spring from front to rear, this is more logic for me but potentially looking worse.

However, your setup with one or 2 springs in this direction will work as well, as you revert the direction with this low lever connection.
 

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78 Custom - 460 - NP435 - NP205 - Sniper EFI - HyperSpark Ignition - 4.56 Gears - Front/Rear Lockers
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Discussion Starter #747
some thoughts:
why Champios does the small pin in the direction they do? totally senseless from my point of view, either left or right exit.
if this is unblocked I can t understand why the radiator is dropping water from cap instead through that pin hole into the canister.

springs:
why not install the spring counter the direction it should move? to have it pulling back.
I mean: throttle linkage is pulling carb level to rear, hence mount the return spring from front to rear, this is more logic for me but potentially looking worse.

However, your setup with one or 2 springs in this direction will work as well, as you revert the direction with this low lever connection.
I'm pretty sure when they made this radiator that they tried to mimic the factory radiator when it came to mount locations and hoses so swapping it would be easy for people keeping things the same. The factory radiator has that nipple going in the same direction and allows for the hose to be run tight along the back of the radiator, but the factory radiator comes with no overflow tank and the hose just goes down the side and dumps onto the ground.


This pic of my blue flatbed truck shows where the hose would go on the factory radiator. This is most likely how I'll run it once I drill some holes and bolt the tank on the other side up higher.




To answer your question on the cap or at least give my opinion on why it leaks (I'll have to try and make a video of it just to document it), I think it leaks because it doesn't fit very tight on the radiator. That's why I have it kind of at an angle, because it fits tighter in that direction, but you can still kind of wobble it side to side.

Radiator caps have 2 seals. One seals the cap to the top of the neck, the other seals down in the inside of the neck. When the pressure goes up high enough the lower seal inside the neck will raise up (it has a spring pushing it down) and allow coolant to go down that small hose. I think since mine doesn't seal that well on the top that when the lower seal raises up it has enough pressure to push out some coolant past the upper seal. I know some coolant does go down that small hose. It must relieve just enough pressure and coolant that it drops the cap back down tight enough on the radiator neck that it doesn't do it again.

As an experiment, I'm going to bend the tabs of the cap I have and see if I can get it to seal tighter to the radiator neck. I can also try one of the caps I have on my other trucks... or just buy a new one for $7 if neither of those work out.

On the springs, I did mention that that those smaller springs would be useful in that type of setup (going forward) as they are shorter and wouldn't need to stretch very far towards the front of the Bronco. I may try that at some point, but I'm going to try some other things first. I'd also have to make a bracket for it.

This is what the dual return spring looks like when I don't use it with my factory spring like in the pic I posted. This is of course not my Bronco. lol

 

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1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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got both your points.
rad cap makes sense, maybe its really due to top seal does not lay on stiff enough. at my radiator the exit is straight 90° to driver side and the hose goes down on the side to nowhere as I have no coolant overflow can installed.

that carb and bad setup give nice colors and look good. Yes this dual springs is what you are talking about, will work for sure flawless as the lower part of that lever on the carb will move forward when the throttle linkage above pivort point pulls backwards, hence the springs will work no problem. on top "rear" springs are looking cleaner, as there is not so much crap mounted in front of carb/intake manifold.
 

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78 Custom - 460 - NP435 - NP205 - Sniper EFI - HyperSpark Ignition - 4.56 Gears - Front/Rear Lockers
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Discussion Starter #749
Solved the idle problem, or should I say the throttle hanging problem. I pressed the pedal while I had it parked in neutral and got it to hang around 1500 rpm or so. I checked the secondary shaft and was able to close it slightly which dropped the idle to normal. I made about a quarter turn on the screw that's on the end of the shaft and that fixed it.

On the radiator cap I think I fixed that too. I borrowed the cap off my F100 and put that one on and it actually fit even looser than the Champion cap. I decided to take the Champion cap and bend the little tabs that hold it on to the radiator neck with a set of pliers. It takes a pretty firm push down to get it on now and it seems to seal it fine. I actually recorded it warming up with my camera to see if it would gush out like it did last time and it didn't. I also found out, by using the camera with its timer, that it takes 5 minutes of idling to hit 160* and about 8-9 minutes to warm up all the way to around 190*.

So that's nice that those two are no longer issues. Of course I noticed another one though. I've got a slight oil leak coming from my oil filter adapter. I get a slow drip coming off the bolt that holds the adapter on to the block. Considering I don't really need the adapter as the oil filter should clear fine without it and it's just there because it was on the donor 460, I'll probably just remove it when I do my first oil change and screw the new filter straight to the block.
 

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1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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Very good you solved that and can cross this one out.
I agree with the filter adapter, if you don't need it, take it off and install the filter directly.

5 minute seem to be quick, but right, idling does not mean any "winds" from driving, hence fan has not perfect efficency then.

I am like you on that, whats not needed must go.... as its just something that may fail and cause problems, even not needed at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #751
Here's what the radiator cap looks like. You can see on the second pic that I bent the left side tab down. I bent both down before I installed the cap, but I actually had to bend them both even more than the pic shows.








And here's my throttle linkage on the Sniper. Each shaft has it's own built in return spring. I'm not sure why the secondary shaft does what it does, but maybe its spring is too weak on its own. Anyway, I tightened that screw and it's been fine.








I don't seem to have quite the same trouble I did with the initial pedal push, but I'm still trying to get the right return spring tension. Most of the time when I let off the pedal it'll only go back to 1% on the TPS rather than 0. If I put my foot under the gas pedal and tap up it goes back to 0, so I may just need a little more tension on the spring or maybe adjust the TPS somehow. It's nothing major, just one of those little annoyances.
 

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1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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looking good and fresh.
well done, and yes, maybe you can adjust TPS
 

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Discussion Starter #753
Not much going on with the Bronco.

Decided to pick up a cordless sawzall to enhance my junk yard experience. Should have bought one a long time ago in all honesty. I'm going to be cutting some things out for @canuckistan97 and probably cut out some floor boards for myself. I don't have a welder and don't really want to get the floors fixed right now, but it wouldn't hurt to get some OG floors before they crush the few Broncos that are in the yard. It's going to happen. Most of the dentside trucks that I've picked from have already disappeared.

The setup I bought came with a couple batteries, quick charger, and a bag. Should make my impact work a little better with a larger battery. I'm pretty sure the 2ah battery wasn't giving it full torque. You can hear a speed difference when swapping it out for an 8ah when both are fully charged.



 

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1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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good tool addition, gotta rethink my cordless setup as well.... the Ryobi impact I got is not really strong, it shall be capable of 300 Nm torque, but it can't even losen wheels nuts being torqued to 110 NM....

gotta see the video tonight, youtube is blocked from the office....
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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some thoughts:
why Champios does the small pin in the direction they do? totally senseless from my point of view, either left or right exit.
if this is unblocked I can t understand why the radiator is dropping water from cap instead through that pin hole into the canister.

springs:
why not install the spring counter the direction it should move? to have it pulling back.
I mean: throttle linkage is pulling carb level to rear, hence mount the return spring from front to rear, this is more logic for me but potentially looking worse.

However, your setup with one or 2 springs in this direction will work as well, as you revert the direction with this low lever connection.

My original type radiator has the overflow fitting going the same direction.
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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Random video of me flexing on Bronco owners with no back seat torsion bar.


How do you post video? I've tried before and it wont let me. I get a message that says something about permissions.
 

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1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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555 Posts
How do you post video? I've tried before and it wont let me. I get a message that says something about permissions.
I usually add it to my YouTube account and copy the link here, into the "bare" text, and the forum converts it so preview, see my project thread, just link is copied in.
 

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78 Custom - 460 - NP435 - NP205 - Sniper EFI - HyperSpark Ignition - 4.56 Gears - Front/Rear Lockers
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Discussion Starter #760
How do you post video? I've tried before and it wont let me. I get a message that says something about permissions.
If I'm posting something from youtube I click the button under the video that says "share" and then copy the link that pops up and paste it directly into my message on here. You don't need to use any special button on FSB, it just recognizes that it's a youtube link and it embeds the video. I haven't tried copying the video url from my web browser, but I'd assume that would work as well.

If I'm posting one of my own videos I have to make sure I set the video to "public" before I post it, otherwise no one else but myself will be able to play it. Everyone else will just see the youtube player and it will mention not having permission to play it. If it's a video you've already "published", you can go back and edit it to be made public if it was set to private.
 
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