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Whippin' the 78 Bronco into shape.

129524 Views 1367 Replies 48 Participants Last post by  Doosenberry
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I've been slacking hardcore. Ever since I started my new position at work about 1 1/2 years ago I've been wiped out during most of my time off when I'm at home during the day. 12-13 hour graveyard shifts suck bad. Anyway, I made some recent purchases for my Bronco to help motivate me to finish some plans. It's nothing impressive like I see a lot of guys doing on here with lots of bodywork and engine swaps, but my rig needs some things done here and there, so I'm going to use this as a way to document what I do as I go along. I'm also wanting to go to Moab in April/May with the others on here, so that'll be some extra motivation to get the Bronco in good enough shape where I feel it'd make the... roughly 450 mile trip there.

When I got the Bronco the rear window was non-functional. The previous owner had the glass propped up with two lengths of pvc pipe. Pretty ghetto, but it does manage to keep the glass nice and tight in the top. I think it'd be a much cooler ride, in more than one way, if I could get the window working again. For now it's a manual affair by removing the pvc pieces and slowly lowering it down by hand.

It took a while, mostly because I've never seen the inside of a Bronco tailgate and there aren't too many around in the JYs here for me to compare to, but I did manage to figure out what all was missing and what I need to do. Everything seems to be there in the tailgate, except for the window regulator and the tracks that attach to the window that the regulator uses to lift and lower it. Last year I managed to find another 78 Bronco in one of our local JYs, so I lucked out and was able to obtain those parts from that rig. They've been sitting in my back room with my stockpile of parts for my Bronco and my 77 F100. If I ever manage to stay awake, I'll get my backlog done.

Another thing that I noticed about the Bronco, and I"m just assuming here from observation, is that the tailgate is from a different rig. My Bronco is red, but this tailgate, under the access panel, is black. It's also got some black in spots where the red is chipped. Another thing I noticed, which just tickled me silly, is that the wiring for the tailgate that goes through the left side quarter panel has been cut. I'm just guessing that they cut it there to swap tailgates, because nothing else makes sense. So, that's where I decided to tackle this job today. I spent a couple hours before I left for work getting things set up and soldering those wires back together for the tailgate.

I am a 100% amateur solderer. I'm pretty embarrassed by the look of my soldered joints, but they always seem to hold and by god I'm gonna make it work.

I'll give an overview of what I did and then let the pictures speak for themselves.

I checked to make sure the wires still had power from the battery. My test light confirmed that one wire always had constant power regardless of key position. The other two did not, but I'm fairly sure that's because they're used for up/down on the switch which completes the circuit depending on which way you push the switch or turn the key in the gate. Then I disconnected the battery negative, so I didn't become a parable. I then stripped back the insulation on both sides of the wires, cleaned them with what I had available, attempted to tin them (lol), bent both ends into hooks and hooked them together, soldered the ends together, shrank the heat shrink tubing I put on the wires, wrapped each wire individually with black electrical tape, wrapped all three wires together with more electrical tape, cut the grommet that the wires go through into the tailgate and fitted it over the newly soldered wires. I would have kept the grommet on the wires before I soldered them, but there wasn't enough room with all the heat shrink and I think it'll function well enough for the job it's required to do with the way I put it on. Blah!























Next step will be bolting in the regulator and pop riveting on the tracks to the glass. I did check to make sure the wiring is functioning properly. I had about 10 minutes to spare before heading out to work, so I pulled out the regulator and rigged up the wiring real quick then hit the buttons for the window on the inside of the tailgate, the ones that move it when you turn the key in the gate. The regulator started moving, so I think it's a shoe in from here provided I don't crack the glass putting the rivets in. I think my regulator/motor might be OEM from 78. The Bronco I pulled it from was a 78 and the markings on the regulator motor indicate a 1977 manufacture. At least that's what I'm getting from it. Pretty neat that it all still works. I need to either find a matching connector to the one in my tailgate for my regulator or come up with two new ones of my own.
















Here are some more items I'll be addressing later on this week/next week. Some weather stripping for the top of the tailgate and the anti-rattlers for the doors. The rest seem to be pretty decent if not really good. I have a relay kit for the head lights. Metal "finger cups" for the door panels. New fuel filler hose since mine is cracked out and leaking when I fill it up. Some other tailgate innards. I have some new door panels on the way since mine were toast and some new LED headlights as well. I still need to get my fuel tank dropped, so I can add a fuel return line for EFI and I need to get my headers installed. I have a nice list of things I need to do that I haven't mentioned that's on my fridge. One thing at a time.






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Went for a little snow drive today. We didn't get a whole lot, but it's better than nothing!

I was a little bummed out when I got to my usual spot though. They, whoever "they" is, have dozed over the trail I use. They're expanding on this little area they cleared out to make a "park". They have all the signage up, but haven't completed the project as all the stuff listed on the signage doesn't exist yet.

They're clearly adding an area for RVs, fifth wheels, whatever. I don't know if it's going to become a campground, because I would not want to camp out there. It's just lava rock and sage brush.

This is near the area I sank my Bronco into the deep snow last winter.





They free range cows out there a lot, so I don't know how that'd work out with people camping. lol. There were a looot more than what is in this pic. Probably 100-200 head spread out.





A little further down from the area I mess around in is a spot that's been there forever that looks like it's set up for dirt bikes and four wheelers. It has an oval with banked corners and then down the center of the oval is a bunch of woops.

I tried out the woops at about 10-12 mph. lol. Doesn't look like much in the pic, but it's pretty wild at 10-12 mph in a Bronco. If I didn't have loose stuff in the back of my Bronco, and my dogs, I would have tried a faster speed.





I need to grease under my steering wheel. It got squeaky shortly after I put in the new turn signal switch, which you can hear in the video, among other things.

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I don't know what you're talking about... 🤥
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I was steering with my left hand and holding the camera (my phone) with my right hand, so I guess I was the stabilizer. I tried to keep the camera aimed at the same spot regardless of how much the front end was moving around. That's why I don't make many videos, it's not easy being cameraman and driver.
I also found out how much that guy was offering for my Bronco.
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I think I may have a temporary solution for adding a receiver to my bronco so I can install a drop hitch to pull around my pop up camper if I ever decide to with the Bronco. Ideally I'd just have one built into a custom bumper, but custom bumpers are super expensive these days, so I don't see myself splurging on a custom bumper or two just yet.

I am, however, sprucing up my F100 a little bit and that entails putting new oem style bumpers on it. I'm going with a rear contour bumper and removing the step bumper, which means I'll have to have some custom touches done in order to tow with that as well. 🤷‍♂️ I'm thinking hidden hitch behind the license plate type of deal there.

Anyway, since I'll be taking the step bumper off my truck, I figure I can put it on my Bronco. Yes, I think step bumpers are ugly and it's not what I'd want on there forever, but I'll be able to bolt on a receiver under the center of the step bumper and then put a drop hitch in it to get it low enough to tow my trailer. I could also use it as a recovery point and put a shackle there as my Bronco currently doesn't have any.

I'll most likely have to shorten the step bumper brackets that bolt to the frame, so it doesn't stick out so much. F-series brackets are longer than Bronco brackets. But, that should be it. 🤞

Harbor freight sells this.

Gun barrel Auto part Rectangle Font Automotive exterior




And this.

Wood Auto part Machine Tool Hardwood




So I'm thinking for around $100 I should be able to do all of that. I don't plan on towing anything more than the camper and I think it has a gvwr of around 2k lbs, so I should be alright with this mickey mouse setup. And then when I'm done dumping money into my truck and come back to dump money into the Bronco, I can spend a lot more than $100 and get a different bumper.
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We got a few more inches of snow last night. I took my kids with me today in the Bronco over where I went with my dogs last time.

After we did some exploring, we headed back to the main road and came across some guys stuck in the snow off road in a crown vic. It had a roof rack, fender flares, and some bull horns on the front of the hood.

I had my strap in the back of the Bronco, so I pulled them out and they made another attempt and got up the side of the road where they were previously stuck.









Then I drove down the main road some more and came across a truck stuck in some deep ruts off road. So, pulled out the strap again and yanked them out. They were stuck more than the crown vic. The vic just needed me to lightly pull it backwards. I had to do several running starts to get this truck out.







Then made a stop for lunch on the way home.

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Rough start this morning. This is block heater territory for sure. If I lived in this for a long period of time each year, I'd heat my oil before starting it, it was.. rough.


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It was around -2/-3 degrees out at 8am when I started it up. The intake manifold air temp sensor always reads a little higher than the air temp outside until the engine runs for a little bit.

I'm assuming the sensor is insulated by everything under then hood just enough to put it off a few degrees.

Anyway, yeah, the engine wasn't super happy and the starter tried kicking back a little bit while cranking. You'll see where I gave it some gas after the second start, the TPS sensor goes up to like 7-10% which is just cracking the throttle blades open a bit.


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That's pretty cool to watch. Can you see water temp with it?
Water temp is the top center number.
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My '95 handles the cold pretty well (still has a block heater installed, just not plugged in as often) but we keep the '73 F250 and Dad's '78 on the block heaters. They make a world of difference when temps get down below 20 deg. Also... kinda funny but the block heater keeps the engine bay warm enough that snow often melts (mostly) off the hood. If you're looking for a quick, temp fix... those magnetic oil pan heaters do an ok job too. Won't keep the whole block as warm but keeping the oil warm and easily flowing can help a lot with the cold starts. Dad used that style for years before I rebuilt his top-end and added the plug style while I had the engine out. No retro-EFI here but that shouldn't make any real difference.

I think our super cold temps are gone for now. We're back to just 20-25 degrees at night now instead of -2. :rolleyes:

I think something that would help cold starts, with this Sniper anyway, would be to increase what is essentially a pump shot like a carb would do when you press the pedal. It'll do that shot of gas into the intake every time you turn the key from off to on and I cycled the key maybe 3 times before starting it the last time it was super cold out and that helped a lot. The length of the pump shot is adjustable, I just haven't seen a need to change it until now.

I'm not too worried about keeping the coolant unfrozen as freezing it would take a temp like -35, but having the oil able to be pumped efficiently right away would be nice when it's well below freezing. Ideally, I wouldn't even be driving this thing when it's cold like that, but my DD is out of commission.
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So, the other day my clutch linkage decided to go poo poo on me. I was pressing the pedal nearly to the floorboard before I got any sort of clutch disengagement. This happened shortly after my last trip in the snow where I pulled those two guys out. I don't think that's the cause, but I'm sure the extra vibration and jerking around didn't help.

It looks like two things happened, however I'm not sure in what order. The nuts on the adjustment rod for the clutch were both loose and had spun down the rod in opposite directions, so that's what gave me most of my low pedal. I put them back where they needed to be and got my pedal back.

The other thing that happened was I lost the upper bolt on my engine-side pivot bracket for the z-bar. It was gone completely. I took out the lower one and took it to the hardware store and got a matching bolt. I also got two lock washers as the bolts didn't have any. They must have not had any when I took the bracket off the 351m that used to be there as I wouldn't have left those off when I put it on the 460.

It's pretty gross under there these days with mud baked onto the exhaust, flaking paint, and it looks like my valve covers are leaking at the back again, but here's a shot of the linkage.






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Glad you got it working. I must say that looks so clean compared to the oil mud from everything on mine leaking. Right now I'm just pretending that it's a good thing because stuff can't rust if it's covered in oil mud. It's almost like free undercoating.
Some people pay a lot of money for that. I hear Fluid Film is popular in the rust belt. Cleaning and painting everything that got removed from the Bronco before putting them back on really helped a lot for my ugly heap.

I'm sure I could clean up most of the oil and dirt with some degreaser and the pressure washer at the car wash.
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I messed around with a couple of the fuel settings on the Sniper. I need to do more, but it'd be a lot easier with a laptop. Using the handheld is a pain with graphs. I bumped up the prime percentage and then decreased the afterstart enrichment.

Increasing the prime made it start with less cranking and then the Sniper, in the much colder temps I've noticed, it will dump too much fuel in for a little bit until the coolant temp rises. It'll act like a carb that's flooding out and I'll have to open the throttle a bit to rev the engine and clear it out. A lot of the fuel adjustments in the settings are based on engine temp, so the colder it is, the more fuel gets put in.

Anyway, I'll fiddle with it a bit more. I think I went slightly too far and right after it starts it runs for a couple seconds then kinda stumbles and then picks back up to where it needs to be, when it's dead cold anyway. The curve on the graph was crazy high in the cold temps and I cut it to like a 1/3 of what it was set at.


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I know exactly nothing about the EFI mod setups but it sounds like you may end up with two, or possibly more (spring/fall) different programmable settings to optimize the behavior... once you get everything dialed in for the seasonal fine tune settings. Any chance the Sniper has memorable settings to swap between?

I'm doing more reading online regarding all the settings as I think there's a better approach to what I'm trying to achieve. Essentially, if I spend enough time dialing it in and all of the sensors are working properly, I wouldn't need two setups. It would just put in the right amount of fuel for a given engine temp/load.

I can't remember if it'll let you save more than one "tune" on the sd card in the handheld. Like I said though, it shouldn't be necessary. I haven't messed with all the settings on my Sniper in a long time. I think the last thing I did was lean out my cruise a/f ratio on the handheld the last time I drove on the highway to go camping, which was maybe 1 1/2 years ago.

The tuning on the handheld is very basic. I'm assuming they tried to keep it simple enough that most people won't screw things up. It seems to self-learn pretty well for most situations. I just think the default tables for very cold weather are rich across the board. It may be better now with newer firmware or newer Snipers.
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I feel your pain on this. I am using the PIMP x and have only adjusted for idle as I have not driven it yet. Its a steep learning curve for me buy I am always up for learning new stuff. There is a ton of info available which helps me understand. The scariest part for me is making a change and damaging the engine somehow. I have added a dual AFR gauge in my console so I can monitor the fuel mixture without the computer hooked up. I believe the sniper has a cabin mounted display for this? I think we have opposite issues. I would like a small display so I don't have to have my computer connected to monitor everything. Allegedly there will be a Bluetooth app available in the future. Good luck. I now have another resource:)

Yes, the Sniper uses a 3.5" LCD display that you can either leave hooked up or leave it off. I've left it hooked up and it sits on the very left of my dash via cellphone holder.

I don't know if they all function the same, but mine is very sensitive and when using my fingers, sometimes the placement of a dot on a graph that I'm trying to slightly move will jump all over the place up or down. Using a stylus would probably help.

Either way, there are far more tuning settings to play with via a laptop and the free software they provide on the Holley website compared to the 3.5" handheld.
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Been a while. I haven't been using the Bronco lately. Right now it's actually been used as a mobile storage unit. 🤦‍♂️ I have both old bumpers from my F100 sitting inside of it, along with the wheels I bought for my truck sitting in the back, etc etc. That will soon change though!

Once the weather warmed up a bit, I did reset my Sniper tune. I just entered in the basic parameters into the Wizard and let it put the generic base map back in. I wanted to see if starting over, but with the changes to a/f ratio and overall timing I made over time would make any difference in its self learning if put in from the get go.

I'm gonna go back through the harness and remove some wiring as well. I left all the wiring intact for the other features I'm not currently using in case I'd add them later (electric fan control, etc). I'm just going to remove them, because I don't see myself adding them or adding them anytime soon. I'm curious if I'm getting any rf interference because of the wires left there. I don't experience anything drastic, like idle issues or random rpm swings or anything crazy like that, but I'm just curious.

There's a lot I need to work on, but I'm just not ready to dig into things. Once I have my truck relatively squared away, I'll tackle larger items on the Bronco. I may need to drive this thing for a bit if my truck's engine ever gets put together, so I'm waiting on that. I'm ready to roll the soft top up though, so driving this around for the summer would be a-ok with me.
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