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Discussion Starter #1
I know there are a few out there. So who has done the 60 swap in there 78-79 bronco with an 80's or 90's era hp60. I have a quick question for u
 

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78 Bronco 460 & 1 Tons, 9" on 39.5s
You got 3 axles on that rig (like this)




or you swap in the 9" only when the 39.5's are on :goodfinge

Sorry for the hijacking............ Well, not really that sorry.........:popc1:
 

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I plan on turning the knuckles when I do mine, I have 6" of lift and don't want to run radius arm drop brackets.
 

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I ran 6 inches of lift with a 85 D60 in a 78.... No cutting and turning the knuckles.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I ran 6 inches of lift with a 85 D60 in a 78.... No cutting and turning the knuckles.

How did your pinion angle and caster come out? Right nowI'm sitting at about 2 degrees of caster which is putting my front driveline coming in at about a 6 degree angle to the pinion, along with the compound angle cause by the offset pumpkin compared to the stock axle
 

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I really never measured the caster. Just set the driveshaft angle at about 8* and ran it. Ran down the road good that way.
 

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How much lift u running? Also how did your pinion and caster come out on it? Did u have to cut and turn the knuckles?
About 9" of lift I assume. I didn't have to cut and turn. The angles and caster aren't bad at all. It's a woods truck so I don't bother with measuring angles and all that alignment stuff. It's safe and drives straight on the way to the trails.

Front...


I did have to modify the trans cross member a bit...



Rear...

 

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Discussion Starter #11
I really never measured the caster. Just set the driveshaft angle at about 8* and ran it. Ran down the road good that way.
What set up are u running for a front driveline. does it have the cv at the t-case and a single joint at the pinion?
 

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what problems are you running into. are you going through u joints? i am in the process right now i have the axle under the truck w/duff radius arms and 6" springs waiting on the track bar mount. and havent welded the wedges yet. mine will be a trail truck so was going to worry more about the pinion angle. than caster.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Haven't gone through any u joints yet, had it one day in the creek for a few hours and a 3 day trip to the snow that saw a lot of 4 wheel drive for exteneded periods of time, like a mile or 2 at a time breaking trail so it was under a pretty good load while doing so.

Only issue i noticed is when my rpm are low enough to lower engine noise i can hear a little noise. I have some yota buddys that like to take reciever stock to build front driveline from so they get enough slip, and i kind of compare it to the noise that makes, if u have ever been around a rig with a driveline like that!!! Other then that all was good.

I checked all the u joints before and after the run and all seems good still, just don't like hearing something that could be potential issue while that far from home. I have a cv at the t-case, but my pinion isn't pointed straight at the t-case like i have heard it should be, so there is a compound angle at the pinion. In order to get the pinion pointed up where it probably should be I wouldn't have any caster!!

Some guys said they have cut and turned the knuckles so that the caster would be good and the pinion angle. of course this is info I ran across just recently, long after the axle was bolted in and done.
 

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Some guys said they have cut and turned the knuckles so that the caster would be good and the pinion angle. of course this is info I ran across just recently, long after the axle was bolted in and done.
Early bronco guys do it all the time on the D44's, but those axles start with about 0 degree caster from the factory (vs 7 or so on full size axles), so it's hardly optional on many of them.

Can't see why the 60 would be much different. Punch a mark on the tube/C, grind off the outer weld, hammer out to the caster you want and reweld. C's center them selves on the tube, so that is not an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Early bronco guys do it all the time on the D44's, but those axles start with about 0 degree caster from the factory (vs 7 or so on full size axles), so it's hardly optional on many of them.

Can't see why the 60 would be much different. Punch a mark on the tube/C, grind off the outer weld, hammer out to the caster you want and reweld. C's center them selves on the tube, so that is not an issue.
Easier said then done!!! hell mine is already under and running for now. Guess I will have to live with it, not much of an option now. Would take alot of work to try and adjust it now, I made sre the wedges weren't going anywhere when i welded them on.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I really never measured the caster. Just set the driveshaft angle at about 8* and ran it. Ran down the road good that way.
So your drive shaft is about an 8 degree angle at the pinion? I think mine is roughly about that or a little less. I may just have a driveshaft that needs to be done the right way!!!

Like i said, it is the original one from the bronco that i personly shortened just to get it wheelable to see how it was all going to work. I guess i just need to get off my ass and get it up to the drive line shop to get it looked at and get good driveline going for it.
 

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Easier said then done!!! hell mine is already under and running for now. Guess I will have to live with it, not much of an option now. Would take alot of work to try and adjust it now, I made sre the wedges weren't going anywhere when i welded them on.
Did you weld over the weld on the outer C (around axle tube) when you welded on the wedges? If not, not sure what the wedges have to do with it @ this point. If so ,then yeah, that would be a little harder on that side.

May be able to add caster (forcing pinion closer to TC flange angle) and go with a non-CV shaft in front. I had one in my big mud bronc (with 44 boggs)as I kept blowing 1330 CV's and it was not too bad @ speed (up to 55 MPH).
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Did you weld over the weld on the outer C (around axle tube) when you welded on the wedges? If not, not sure what the wedges have to do with it @ this point. If so ,then yeah, that would be a little harder on that side.

May be able to add caster (forcing pinion closer to TC flange angle) and go with a non-CV shaft in front. I had one in my big mud bronc (with 44 boggs)as I kept blowing 1330 CV's and it was not too bad @ speed (up to 55 MPH).


Yes the wedges are right out at the "c" on both sides. I had to put them all the way out just to even try to come close to keeping them the same width as on the 44.

So your saying try to get the pinion and the tc to match angles and put a single u joint at both ends instead of the cv all together. And the single joint will handle the compound angle on bother ends?
 

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Yes the wedges are right out at the "c" on both sides. I had to put them all the way out just to even try to come close to keeping them the same width as on the 44.

So your saying try to get the pinion and the tc to match angles and put a single u joint at both ends instead of the cv all together. And the single joint will handle the compound angle on bother ends?
You would need a different shaft or at least cut off the CV end and weld on a non-CV yoke. I would try to find a different shaft and try it out. If you don't like it, you didn't trash your CV driveshaft.

And yes, you want the TC and pinion angles exactly the same in a non-CV shaft setup. Like this setup for early broncos from high angle.

http://highangledriveline.com/early_bronco_conversion.html

I had 7" susp lift in my mud bronc with a man trans. Front shaft was real short (hence pretty steep angle), but it survived with a healthy big block and 44 boggers (locked both ends). Those spricer solid 1330's handle some decent abuse.

Worse case you can go to a non-CV 1350 or even 1410 driveshaft. Not that pricey (comparatively) since your not running the CV. I would give a 1330 a try first though.

This all depnds upon what C-bushings you are running now and if you can get more caster from a higher degree bushing. If not, your back to square one, having to either cut and move the outer C's or the wedges. :banghead
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I beleive they are just 2* in there right now. So i could if I had to go that route get the 7* ones, those are the highest aren't they?

Any how I am going to try and run it by the driveline shop sometime next week and let them take a look at it and get there opinion. i talked to them a little yesterday and from reading what a few other guys have said, I might actually be ok with how it is, just get a good new shaft built and be good to go..... we'll see:thumbup
 
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