My 85 FSB has 380k miles and I've always done the brakes/rotors - and usually the rotors are the item that tells me I need to look at the brakes because they are warped. (I do my fair amount of stop-go freeway driving which contibutes to warping) After the rotors are turned to tolerance, I've always bought original replacements from NAPA and while they work ok, sooner or later, I need to replace because of warping. I've heard slotted/cross-drilled may be the answer to this (although at a price). Wondering if anyone has experience with these "premium" rotors? Should I buy or stay with originals?
Who knows about x-drilled rotors?
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Joined
·
1,269 Posts
I've used nothing but cross drilled rotors on my car, have a couple of friends who have too, my father uses them on his saab, and I have never had a cracked rotor (even with cheap ebay ones), and I have never seen or had someone tell me that they personally have had a cracked rotor. As far as I know, it's just a rumor.
Drilled rotors should help with your application, because the holes help dissipate the heat from the rotor which reduces warping. I say go for it, just remember that drilled rotors can't be turned. When my bronco needs rotors, it will get cross drilled ones.
Drilled rotors should help with your application, because the holes help dissipate the heat from the rotor which reduces warping. I say go for it, just remember that drilled rotors can't be turned. When my bronco needs rotors, it will get cross drilled ones.
Joined
·
6,198 Posts
If you drive in town 100% of the time, doing 45 and slamming on your brakes every 5 seconds, then cross drilled/slotted rotors may be for you. Sure, they keep cooler, but they warp easier, they crack, they're just weaker than standard brakes.. Not worth the extra coin in my opinion.
Slotted may be a better choice for you, they keep cooler and they're stronger than drilled rotors are.
Slotted may be a better choice for you, they keep cooler and they're stronger than drilled rotors are.
Joined
·
6,198 Posts
It's not a rumor, I know a few people who went for cross drilled and didn't like them. Plus, out of my eight uncles on my mom's side, 6 of them are mechanics, none of them really suggest cross drilled.Black93Bronco said:
I agree with you on the fact that they are better suited for cars, but on an FSB?
I don't know. It's your money.
Joined
·
45 Posts
Crossdrilled is racing bling where money is no object when it comes to replacement. They eat pads as well. Stick with GOOD replacement rotors and not cheap knock-offs. The cheapys have inferior iron, think cheap Chinese pot metal. You're doing the right thing to stick with Napa or Ford OE.
Brakes are a wear item that has to be replaced. No way around that... unless you don't use them.:histerica
Brakes are a wear item that has to be replaced. No way around that... unless you don't use them.:histerica
Joined
·
1,115 Posts
ive seen drilled rotors crack from the holes. so it isnt just a myth.
i have powerslot rotors on my tahoe and hawk pads. The braking difference is amazing, the pedal is firmer and stops much quicker. Only got around 6k on them so no work on longevity but i got them off ebay for 70 bucks new for the pair thats as much as good rotors from any autoparts store.
i have powerslot rotors on my tahoe and hawk pads. The braking difference is amazing, the pedal is firmer and stops much quicker. Only got around 6k on them so no work on longevity but i got them off ebay for 70 bucks new for the pair thats as much as good rotors from any autoparts store.
Crossdrilled rotors are for vehicles with oversized brakes - it reduces unsprung weight & rolling weight on vehicles that don't need that material in the rotors anyway. Truck brakes are undersized, so don't do anything that reduces their friction surface area or mass. The tiny increase in total surface area won't do squat for cooling, but the reduction in mass causes them to get hotter.
Slotted rotors are for asbestos pads that still contain volatiles (gases). You almost can't buy pads that would benefit from slots any more, and if you're buying cheapo crappy pads, slotted rotors are too expensive for you. Just buy good pads & good direct-replacement rotors for the best performance.
If you have the money to spend on crossdrilled &/or slotted rotors, buy new rotors from Ford & you'll be MUCH better off.
Don't believe me? :shrug No problem. :thumbup Would you believe Wilwood?
Slotted rotors are for asbestos pads that still contain volatiles (gases). You almost can't buy pads that would benefit from slots any more, and if you're buying cheapo crappy pads, slotted rotors are too expensive for you. Just buy good pads & good direct-replacement rotors for the best performance.
If you have the money to spend on crossdrilled &/or slotted rotors, buy new rotors from Ford & you'll be MUCH better off.
Don't believe me? :shrug No problem. :thumbup Would you believe Wilwood?
Joined
·
3,377 Posts
Black93Bronco said:
One of the fourwheeler mags had pics in their articles of them cracking also
Depending on the sliding/retaning pin for your caliper you could upgrade to the t-bird caliper to get better clamping force, serach for teh article in the tech section
Joined
·
2,331 Posts
i had cross drilled rotors on my D44. they always filled up with mud and ate the crap out of my pads.
i suggest sticking to slotted rotors like from here www.powerslot.com
i suggest sticking to slotted rotors like from here www.powerslot.com
Joined
·
297 Posts
I've always used Stillen's cross-drilled rotors.. like all cross dills, they are more susceptible to cracks.. I now have a set of Powerslots (slotted only) w/ cryogenic treatment on order.. the cryo is supposed to handle higher temps and extend life of the pads and rotors..
Joined
·
1,269 Posts
Drilled rotors will wear pads quicker than regular rotors, that's true, but the difference is negligible because the holes are chamfered (or should be) so they don't cut pads as bad as slotted rotors do. They are less suceptible to warping than regular rotors because they stay cooler.
Slotted rotors wear pads the quickest because they act like a razor blade and take off a tiny layer of the pad every time they pass over it. This is useful for race applications because when pads get extremely hot they glaze over and stop working, the slots resurface the pads constantly so they never glaze.
As far as drilled rotors not being able to be turned, that's what I was told by a machine shop near me that turns rotors, I have never had any rotors turned so I don't know for sure.
And for the cracking, I'm not sure what to say, maybe it's a NH thing . . .
Slotted rotors wear pads the quickest because they act like a razor blade and take off a tiny layer of the pad every time they pass over it. This is useful for race applications because when pads get extremely hot they glaze over and stop working, the slots resurface the pads constantly so they never glaze.
As far as drilled rotors not being able to be turned, that's what I was told by a machine shop near me that turns rotors, I have never had any rotors turned so I don't know for sure.
And for the cracking, I'm not sure what to say, maybe it's a NH thing . . .
Joined
·
2,360 Posts
How about some real tech?
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
I stay away from cross-drilled and slotted rotors. I don't need, nor want, bling on my truck. If you feel you must do something, go slotted, but I wouldn't recommend it.
Tommy
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
I stay away from cross-drilled and slotted rotors. I don't need, nor want, bling on my truck. If you feel you must do something, go slotted, but I wouldn't recommend it.
Tommy
Joined
·
4,925 Posts
Slotted. Say no to cross drilled if you brake hard a lot, and it sounds you do.
Joined
·
2,747 Posts
to cool the brake why not get more air to them. my lift and 40" vent the brakes just fine. you want more pedal pressure then swap to steel braided brake lines. If this is not enough goto a hydrobooster.....mike
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
