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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After searching to read all of the oil threads I've noticed a big following for 5w40 or 10w40 instead of the 30 weight recommended by Ford. What is the main reason you guys running the 40 weight oil are running it???
 

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I run 40W because it is hot as hell down here in the summer time and the 10W40 holds together better at high operating temperatures. I've put probably hundreds of thousands of miles on various small block ford engines and they all liked the 10W40.
 

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After searching to read all of the oil threads I've noticed a big following for 5w40 or 10w40 instead of the 30 weight recommended by Ford. What is the main reason you guys running the 40 weight oil are running it???
Because being a rebel and not following your instruction manual is the cool thing to do.

If you've got an older worn out motor with looser tolerances, heavier oil can help with oil pressure problems... otherwise, there's no reason not to follow the manufacturer's recommendations unless you enjoy worse fuel economy, and increased wear on your engine.
 

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Kitteh Commandaar!
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Straight lucas oil stabilizer FTW!!!

I run 30 because just a year ago, I put in new mains, and rod bearings, and of course, a new oil pump (along with another coupla things). I get great pressure with it.

I know the stocker gauge isn't a real gauge, but the needle has ben on the L in normal a few times when I'm running it like a raped ape. :D

KC
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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I run 10W-30 Mobil1, and my pressure almost NEVER goes below 50 psig. Thinking about going lower, maybe 5W-20. Thinking...

But to the thread starter's question, it's a band-aid for later-model engines. 10W-40 used to be recommended, but the better tolerances, additive packages, the need for better fuel economy, yadda yadda, made 10W-40 go away for being API-recommended for gasoline engines.
 

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my lifters rattle with 10w30 after about 1k on the oil.

so i run 15w40.

Plus its cheaper and easier than figuring out why i use and leak so much oil.


Ill run 20w50, I honestly don't care. I hope i blow the engine up from all the extra wear.
 

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1995 XLT SAS w D44 and D60 rear
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Because being a rebel and not following your instruction manual is the cool thing to do.
That must be why we put new exhausts, air filters, sixliter tune ups, and SAS swaps on... because Ford knows what we do to out trucks so well.:thumbup
 

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Hi Need4racin,

Does it matter if I had 10w30 in there before? Meaning if I drain the 30 out, and refill with the 40? Will this cause the engine any harm? I think I have been running with 30, but not totally sure. Only Jiffy Lube knows that :cry

And I understand it's best to drain the pan while it's hot to allow any dirt or gunk to drain as well? Learned this from Chilton, so just wondering on another few.

Thanks mucho :rockon

my lifters rattle with 10w30 after about 1k on the oil.

so i run 15w40.

Plus its cheaper and easier than figuring out why i use and leak so much oil.


Ill run 20w50, I honestly don't care. I hope i blow the engine up from all the extra wear.
 

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Hi Need4racin,

Does it matter if I had 10w30 in there before? Meaning if I drain the 30 out, and refill with the 40? Will this cause the engine any harm? I think I have been running with 30, but not totally sure. Only Jiffy Lube knows that :cry

And I understand it's best to drain the pan while it's hot to allow any dirt or gunk to drain as well? Learned this from Chilton, so just wondering on another few.

Thanks mucho :rockon
You can switch at anytime and be just fine. And yes, the hotter the better when it comes to draining oil. Just be careful when draining the oil when its hot. Your just about guaranteed to get some on you, and you don't want it to scald you.
 

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Yea you can run anything.

If you have no ticking noises from the engine with 30 weight, then run that.

10w30 valvoline conventional is pretty good. I'd shoot for that. Also get a motorcraft oil filter. FL-1A is the part number. You can find both those at walmart in the auto section. Get 6 quarts of oil, mine takes 5.5 quarts, yours might differ.

If it is your first oil change, don't forget an oil drain pan and a filter wrench. I have one of the 15 quart black drain pans. It has a cap on it that way you can store old oil in it. Plus it is perfect for draining the transmission fluid.

Heres what they look like.

Filter wrench




Drain Pan


Motorcraft FL-1A oil filter


Walmart has all of that.
 

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Designated Tranny Killer
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screw the filter wrench, I just use sand paper to get a grip on the filter and use my hand
 

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Zombie Hunter
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Hi Need4racin,

Does it matter if I had 10w30 in there before? Meaning if I drain the 30 out, and refill with the 40? Will this cause the engine any harm? I think I have been running with 30, but not totally sure. Only Jiffy Lube knows that :cry

And I understand it's best to drain the pan while it's hot to allow any dirt or gunk to drain as well? Learned this from Chilton, so just wondering on another few.

Thanks mucho :rockon
You're going to want to be careful with this. Need4Racin is in Georgia, and you are in Oregon, outside temperatures are going to play a card in how the oil works in your vehicle. Georgia never gets below freezing (or rarely, if they do they run out and buy all the toilet paper and water out of the grocery store)

Cold winters do not react with heavier oil well. Heavier oil will become less viscous and not as easy for your pump to move upon initial start up, but once the vehicle is at operating temperatures, it will be fine.

If you have been going to Jiffy Lube, i would recommend calling Jiffy Lube to see what they have been putting in, but 10W30 is probably what they were running on a higher mileage engine. I run it on my 140,000 mile engine because i get slightly better compression with a heavier oil.

Do not drain your oil pan when it's "hot". Engine oil that is hot has the potential to burn you. You want to drain your engine oil when it's "warm". If you're changing the oil in your backyard, you're going to end up with oil on your hands at some point, and you really don't want it to be hot.
 

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I've been scalded by many oil changes. The callouses can take more heat now than the regular skin....hehe. The newer model engines use the FL820-S. Basically a shorter version of the FL1A. I think it started with the '93 5.8 and then in '94 the 5.0 got it. (due to the oil cooler)
 

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I've been scalded by many oil changes. The callouses can take more heat now than the regular skin....hehe. The newer model engines use the FL820-S. Basically a shorter version of the FL1A. I think it started with the '93 5.8 and then in '94 the 5.0 got it. (due to the oil cooler)
Yeah, there's another brilliant Ford move. Lets cut the oil filter size by more than half just so we can keep the oil at the water temperature of the engine. :doh0715:

Next time I change the filter on my F250, I'm gonna clearance the crossmember just a hair (it's close to just a half inch) so I can run the full size filter. I run Purolator PL30001's... they came out as one of the best filters on the market.
 

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The oil cooler really does help these engines, from everything I've read. The oiling system wasn't that great in the early days; back bearings tended to not get enough oil. My truck has 156K on it so far, not a knock to be heard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I dont' have the FL-1A on my 1995 5.8L. I replaced the FL820S with a FL820S. Does that mean I have the oil cooler or did I make a mistake.
 

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FL 820s

The 5.8 and the 5.0 both use the 820 later on my 93 FSB has one on it and I had a 97 GT that had a 4.6 in it that used it as well-the s stands for a silicone valve rather than a rubber one
 
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