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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday I started my truck to get inside cooled down while I put up my work tools. My customer started talking to me and the truck idled probably around 40 minutes on an over 90 degree day. About a mile from their house the bronco started shuddering badly around 1600-2000 rpms. It seemed to run fine at other rpms. Took back roads home and did make it. The shudder even happened if revved in park. I didn't to try it in neutral. So, what did I break this time. 91 5.8l w/ e4od
 

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1993 FSB sterling/60 E4OD/1356
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As long as it didn’t overheat I wouldn’t say it’s your problem. Does it rev fine at above 2k? If no, is your AIR system working? Might be a clogged cat. Might be a whole mess of things. Let us know if it happens again- mainly curious if this is now an ongoing issue or if it was a one time thing. Kinda weird if it didn’t overheat though.
 

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There may be long term effects due to long idling such as basically “engine wear and tear”. But I don’t think that instance you describe would lead to the symptoms you experienced. Vehicles idle all day and night…..construction vehicles on job sites (gas pick ups) and emergency vehicles are just two examples that come to mind.
 

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Yo vpk944,
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader
EEC AKA PCM, computer stores the Self-Test program in permanent memory. When activated, Self-Test checks the EEC system by testing memory integrity and processing capability, and verifies that various sensors and actuators are connected and operating properly.
The EEC will tell you what it found out by testing your sensors, and also any stored information it saved from anything that went wrong during the last 40 trips.
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.
Do KOEO test First. Post Code(s) here according to KOEO & KOER.
A helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.
BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTS
Or ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you.
Or purchase a coder reader such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD 1 Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.
 

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As long as it didn’t overheat I wouldn’t say it’s your problem. Does it rev fine at above 2k? If no, is your AIR system working? Might be a clogged cat. Might be a whole mess of things. Let us know if it happens again- mainly curious if this is now an ongoing issue or if it was a one time thing. Kinda weird if it didn’t overheat though.
While driving back from our cabin in the Smokies in the bronco several years ago we got caught in stalled traffic on I-40 in Tennessee and sat for almost 6 hours at idle. It was cold and about 6 inches of snow so we had to idle to stay warm. No problem and the gas gauge barely moved. My 6.0 liter diesel f250 does have a warning not to idle for more than 10 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So, gave it a test run this morning and it runs great. Thinking maybe the transmission fluid got to hot. The level is good and color good. Will go ahead and change fluid just in case the heat broke it down some. Will update status soon. Fingers crossed.
There may be long term effects due to long idling such as basically “engine wear and tear”. But I don’t think that instance you describe would lead to the symptoms you experienced. Vehicles idle all day and night…..construction vehicles on job sites (gas pick ups) and emergency vehicles are just two examples that come to mind.
Maybe its possessed
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So, had a friend pull the codes
KOEO 35
KOER 12, 13
After pulling the codes he used his scanner to adjust the idle. Since going thru the push the brake, turn the wheel, turn off and on the overdrive it is now idling around 700 rpms. Hasn't done the jump to 1100 that it sometimes does. Will have to see if the cold start in the morning makes it go back to its wicked ways. Thank you so much for helping me sort out this beast. I can do lots of stuff with building materials, but come up short in the mechanics department. And forget about electronics with me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Also was informed I still have an R12 ac system. Will have to plan on the conversion at some point most likely. It still blows very cold. I have also never seen that much water drip down on any of my other vehicles. About a 2' wide puddle or larger.
 

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I wouldn’t touch your AC unless you are having problems. The puddle is a good sign, it means it’s doing it’s job and pulling the moisture from the air.
 

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I think I have most of a case of r12 sitting around here somewhere.
No gauges, but a fill hose or two........
 

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You sir, are sitting on a small pile of gold ;)
Well, I no longer have any vehicles that use it.
I know the '93 was converted, the '89 hasn't worked in so long, I don't remember. I want to remove it and go OBA.
 

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My 6.0 liter diesel f250 does have a warning not to idle for more than 10 minutes.
I had one. Run it longer than 10 minutes and it’ll need head studs, an oil cooler, and standpipes and dummy plugs.

Loved the way it sounded but otherwise haven’t missed it much. Mine treated me well for the 20K miles I had it but was always worried about what $5K repair was coming next.
 

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I had one. Run it longer than 10 minutes and it’ll need head studs, an oil cooler, and standpipes and dummy plugs.

Loved the way it sounded but otherwise haven’t missed it much. Mine treated me well for the 20K miles I had it but was always worried about what $5K repair was coming next.
Man, that sucks. I had an older f250, with the 6.9l diesel, you could idle the whole fuel tank down without hurting anything.
 

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Idling for more than 10 minutes at a time can be considered "severe service". Remember engines have an ideal operating range and idle is not "ideal". Most engines handle it just fine, but it's not ideal either.

There are only a couple Ford engines I would AVOID - that 6.0 PowerStroke and the 3V modular engines.
 

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If you do not have atleast a 11x7" stacked plate design transmission cooler you will be seeing a transmission failure very soon.

Also newer pickups in construction do idle all day but they have large transmission coolers, large radiators, large transmission cooler lines. I know of a construction fleet the 6.0; 6.4, 4.2, and 5.4 3v engines had 200-250k miles and some of the diesels had 20-25k engine hours on top of that when they were auctioned. They had some major failures where 6.0 needed bulletproofed and 6.4's ate their fuel systems and needed reman engines. The gas engines only failed when maintenance intervals were skipped.

1991 vs 2022 or even OBS vs 2010 is a big difference in cooling technology. For one some of these OBS/broncos dont even have transmission coolers. Two some them came with 1 core radiators. You do it on one of those trucks if the engine and transmission hasn't failed yet it will definitely fail on you. Even if you do have a factory supercooling cooler that is 11x7" the transmission cooling lines diameter is a big difference even 1996 vs 2003 6.0. These lines on the broncos are barely enough for daily driving. Dont get me started on powersteering we dont even have a cooler. all 97+ ford trucks/suvs have powersteering coolers; even the 4.0 rangers and explorers. You treat your old bronco like a newer truck without upgrading it you will have drive train failure.

You want to use your truck like a new truck then you need to alteast update to a 6.0 cooler level of cooling. Transmission cooler, transmission line diameter, PS cooler. 3-4 core radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks. I haven't had the problem again, yet. I did look quickly and the radiator appears to be about 2.5" to 3" thick. Also have cooling lines from transmission going into it. Also noticed non stock steering box, I believe. It has a allen head sector shaft and an external cooler mounted on cross member. Atleast I don't think its factory. Steering works great now that I backed sector shafter off about 3/8's off a turn. Before that you could turn the wheel and it would keep going in a circle until you moved steering wheel to center.
 
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