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Discussion Starter #1
If any of you remember, i previously had a timing issue and distributor problems; now it seems to be fuel and or electrical problems.

Problem started after i broke free the stuck distributor and replaced it along with the TFI module. I have also replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button, and ignition coil. The truck is timed to 10 BTDC.

The problem goes as follows: it will idle perfect, i can rev up and down the engine no problem. It does shake a little more than i had remembered, but then again it hasn't ran in 4 months. When i put it in reverse or drive the rpm's drop a little and it will idle a little rougher but it will still run somewhat. As soon as i give it gas (any amount even WOT) i have no power. Im pretty sure a golf cart will go faster than this. Rpm's will not increase, sorta stays below 2500. It sputters and makes some kind of popping noise from the motor; almost like a small firecracker. It doesnt sound like a knock and its intermittent. There is no set amount of popping noises and there is no set interval when it does it and its never in consistent intervals. :whiteflag:

So at this point i thought it has something to do with the amount of fuel its getting. Went ahead and replaced the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter. Now the truck will stall more times than not when giving it any gas while in drive or reverse.

Just some more info to help, I don't have any catalytic converters since its straight piped. Only getting a code for too high Rpm and too low Rpm, and a problem in cylinder 1.

When i first bought the truck i put a bottle of seafoam in the gas tank and then its basically sat for the last 4 months. <- I ended up with a broken water pump and a cracked front of the block. Its always been cranked up and ran but its been unable to drive. Are the injectors bad after sitting??

Thanks for anybody who can help with this problem, i have found tons of forums with similar issues but they have all been on cars with carburetors.
 

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It Starr running this way once u put the new dizzy in?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, i noticed on the old distributor that all of the spark plug wires where in the incorrect places. The person before me had the distributor 180 out and put the plug wires on some certain way to make it run( take for granted it ran like ***). So when i placed the new dizzy in, put all of the wires in their correct places, and timed it correctly; we end up in the situation.
 

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Technically, there's no specific place the wires have to be on the cap...as long as they're in the correct order. You can get the engine to TDC on the compression stroke on cylinder one, put the distributor in and whichever post the rotor is pointing at, start there with the cylinder 1 wire and put the others in the correct order from there. Maybe he had it at TDC on the exhaust stroke by mistake and just tried to figure out from there where the wires needed to be.

It does sound like a timing issue to me.
 

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yo
89 5.0
Engine miss, spark knock, buck/jerk, surge and other driveability concerns may be caused by induction crossfire

5.0; The firing order for 87-93 vehicles is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. If #7 and #8, or #2 and #4 spark plug wires are routed next to each other at the separation bracket, an induction crossfire condition can occur.

by Tank92 (Tank) at http://www.supermotors.org/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=299011
See the routing diagrams

========

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?pid=74587&mode=threaded
A helper is good to assist in reading Codes; best is to take a cell fone vid and replay it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So all of this could be as simple making sure plug wires 2 & 4 and 7 & 8 aren't touching.

Ill check for codes using that method in a bit, i just need to find some wire first.
 

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So all of this could be as simple making sure plug wires 2 & 4 and 7 & 8 aren't touching.

Ill check for codes using that method in a bit, i just need to find some wire first.
yo,
Can use a paper clip as well
 

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check your converter, sounds like its plugged. the easiest way to do this is to disconnect your egr tube from the valve and see if it revs better, just make sure you don't run too long or you will melt the tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So i just realized that the EGR tube is actually cut underneath the intake plume and just folded back, almost as if a half ass job of blocking it off.

Making sure 7&8 and 2&4 werent touching actually helped the misfire situation quite a bit.

I'm actually checking codes right now
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Codes from the above method are as follows:

Off-> 11,64,53,33,44,
On->12,52,15

None of these really bring great concern to me, any of these could cause any of the symptoms im having?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Looked at it again tonight; noticed the popping is coming from what looks to be a backfire coming from the bottom butterfly valve on the throttle body. Its shooting flames from that port.
 

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yo,
This is from Ford's 94 PCED;
Backfires
Acceleration or Cruise


Have to roll soon, will get back on the codes; for now:
Off-
11 System pass Try Test again

64 ACT sensor is less than the Self-Test minimum of 0.2 volts. Intake Air Temperature/Air Charge Temperature Circuit Grounded (O,CM,R)
See overview & test by Ryan M @ http://web.archive.org/web/20120121075616/http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=29

53 TPS circuit above maximum 4.5 volts. See overview & test by Seattle FSB @ http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=203080

33 EGR valve opening not detected; triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing; so EZiest & cheapest checks are to inspect & repair/replace repair any bad vac lines. for a <$ vac line test; I pull em off and use the straw sucking test; one finger over one end; The EVP is attached to the top of the EGR valve and provides a signal to the EEC system indicating the position of the EGR valve.

Testing & Operation; "...The EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor monitors the position of the EGR valve pintle. The EVP sensor converts the mechanical movement of the pintle into an electrical voltage signal which is relayed to the PCM. The EVP sensor is a linear potentiometer in which resistance varies with the EGR valve pintle movement. Voltage is fed to the EVP by the signal return circuit. As the EGR is opened the EVP directs more voltage to the EEC and less down the voltage reference circuit. The EVP sensor provides the PCM with information on EGR flow and EGR system failures. The EVP should read between 0.24 and 0.67 volts at idle with a closed EGR valve..." read more
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://web.archive.org/web/20120220034155/http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/?p=35

44 Thermactor Air Injection system inoperative (Right side)
"...I had a similar issue that turned out to be the vacuum line to the Thermactor Air Bypass Valve. No CEL, just a code; 1. First check that the two vacuum lines are connected to the Vacuum Reservoir (coffee can) and the resevoir is in good repair with no leaks on the bottom. Frequently the can leaks or the vacuum lines are accidentally knocked off. Check the vacuum hose to the bottom of the Bypass Valve. Check the vacuum hose to the Diverter Valve. Check the vacuum hoses to the TAB/TAD Solenoids. Then check your TAB/TAD Solenoids. These are common easy to miss problems. Once these are ruled out all that is left is: Thermactor Air Supply Hoses. One-way Check Valves. Main TAB/TAD Valves..."
Source: by Seattle FSB read and see more @ http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=183637

On>
DTC 12 can't control engine RPM high RPM self test; DTC 12 can't control engine RPM high RPM self test; vacuum leak, base idle off, idle air valve dirty or bad, EGR stuck open. Check the IAC valve port in TB for Sludge; Suspect throttle body coking.
Source: by miesk5 at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2592039&posted=1#post2592039

52 Power steering pressure switch always open or closed. DTC 52 Steering wheel not turned during test or Power Steering Pressure Switch problem
The Power Steering Pressure Switch signals the EEC Module when power steering pressure exceeds 350 psi ±50. The engine then increases idle speed to compensate for the additional load. It appears the switch was deleted from the 94 model year. It only shows up in the diagrams until 93. the switch is screwed into the high pressure port of the PS pump.

15 EEC battery powered Keep Alive Memory (KAM) test failed. (was battery disconnected ?) or bad PCM (any burnt electronic component aroma in driver footwell area around parking brake/kick panel?
 
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