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hello all, im in the process of fixing up a 1990 bronco and came across a couple window problems. my passenger side window has a hard time rolling down and looks like its rolling down crooked. its not the motor because i just replaced it. also the rear window only rolls down when two people are pushing on the tailgate. any info would help.

thanks alot guys
 

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how does the weather striping around the window look? if the striping is ok and not cracked possibly the window regulator has worn out bushings on it.
For the rear window sounds like the tailgate isnt closing all the way or the tailgate sensor is out of alignment. First try replacing the latch bushings that the tailgate latches onto the back of the truck they might be worn or missing.
 

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RAAAAAH!
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how does the weather striping around the window look? if the striping is ok and not cracked possibly the window regulator has worn out bushings on it.
For the rear window sounds like the tailgate isnt closing all the way or the tailgate sensor is out of alignment. First try replacing the latch bushings that the tailgate latches onto the back of the truck they might be worn or missing.
x2

Does the tailgate rattle around when driving? If the tailgate is not completely closed, it won't let the window roll up.
 

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For the passenger side window take off the door panel and looking inside with the window up, one end of the "regulator arm" has a toggle which fits into a track at the bottom of the window so see if there's anything broken and lube the track liberally so it can slide. Crooked could be the door felts/tracks are loose or breaking apart, it's common if they're original, LMC Truck and Dennis Carpenter have them but can't confirm prices so check.

Also inspect the other end of the regulator arm "teeth" that mates up with the PW motor gear properly that the "arm" isn't bent or out of shape possibly pulling away when activated, there should a "pivot stud" on the arm that fits into a hole in the sheetmetal so it's balanced when moving up/down.

The Tailgate and Door windows all have PW motors that are riveted with "torque pins" to the backing plate to keep them in place so they don't ratchet when activated. For repairing PW motors you need to drill out the torque pins in order to get it out AND enlarge the sheetmetal holes for better access when "bolting" the motor back in unless you have a torque pin tool kit.

As for the tailgate window, first check and see if the TG "closes flush" with the bodyline otherwise the safety switch inside prevents the window from working. So if you can get the window down to drop the TG you'll see "Door Striker Bolts" on each side part # 38420 - Doorman $7.99 each in the Help section, these can be adjusted with a T-50 torx socket where they rotate in place 360*. On the bolts you will also notice "Door Striker Bushings" part # 38424 -Doorman $3.99, 4 pack each and these are the anti-rattle device for doors and TG.

Power/voltage issues might be attributed to the wiring harness in the left rear quarter panel around the tail light area where the harness gets bent/kinked over time from opening/closing causing damage. You'll notice the harness enters the TG box at the bottom and runs along inside to the PW motor with a connector. There are regualtor arms inside the tailgate as well on the "backing plate" and have toggles on each end going into the tracks on the side, look those over etc.

The TG handle is another issue in that the window has to go all the way down out of sight, catching a rod as it travels downward to " clear" and "release" the handle and cables for the side latches in order to open/drop the TG.

Parts inside the handle can get bent causing problems releasing, check Steve83 tailgate tech section in his album, there's tons of pics to help with this, it's how I fixed mine....just click on his black Bronco to get to it.

Additional Help: www.broncolinks.com

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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As for the tailgate window, first check and see if the TG "closes flush" with the bodyline otherwise the safety switch inside prevents the window from working. So if you can get the window down to drop the TG you'll see "Door Striker Bolts" on each side part # 38420 - Doorman $7.99 each in the Help section, these can be adjusted with a T-50 torx socket where they rotate in place 360*. On the bolts you will also notice "Door Striker Bushings" part # 38424 -Doorman $3.99, 4 pack each and these are the anti-rattle device for doors and TG.
Agreed. Checking this ^ should be your 1st step.
 

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For door window binding, you will need new door glass run and inner/outer weather stripping. You might as well change both as they are probably equally worn. Lubrication with silicone sometimes helps but for only a limited time. The friction caused by old glass run and weather stripping can stress the motor and regulator. Ever seen scratches on your window glass from hardened weather stripping? I have a similar problem on the passenger side even after a new motor and regulator. Now that I have researched, I will be ordering my parts today.


LMC Truck has the complete 1987-1996 kit that they call a "6-pc door anti-rattle kit".

LMC Truck Bronco Door Components - $99.95



Or you can go to Ford and order the following indivudual parts.

E7TZ-1521452-A --- (R) Weatherstrip - $41.47
E7TZ-1521453-A --- (L) Weatherstrip - $46.55
F2TZ-1521456-A --- (R) Weatherstrip - $18.96
F2TZ-1521457-A --- (L) Weatherstrip - $18.63
F5TZ-1521536-A --- (R/L) Run-Door - $44.38 (requires 2, one for each side)






 

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Ron is that price for both doors or just one?

tim
 

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That's not bad for both doors but I just hadn't checked in a while because mine need to be changed, they're shot......thanks for the part/pricing Brother!.....:thumbup
 
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