window washer

Spray Nozzle Removal & Cleaning in 92-96; "...If you look closely where their bases meet the paint, you should find a tiny slot. If you insert a straightened paperclip, you'll compress the locking tab, and allow it to release easier..."
Source: by Steve83

Spray Nozzle Operation & Pattern Diagram in 92-96; "...The windshield washer system has two windshield washer nozzle jet and brackets (17603) located on the cowl vent screens (018A16). The washer system is activated by pushing in on the outboard end of the multi-function switch (13K359). This action energizes a windshield washer pump (17664) mounted inside a cavity in the windshield washer reservoir (17618 ). The windshield washer reservoir is mounted on the fender apron. If multi-function switch is in OFF or INT position, windshield wiper will run as long as knob is pushed in. When the knob is released, washers will stop immediately, but windshield wipers will continue to run for three to four cycles before returning to OFF or interval operation. If the multi-function switch is in LO or HI position, washers operate with no change in windshield wiper operation. NOTE: The windshield washer nozzle jet and bracket sprays windshield washer fluid in a fan-like pattern onto the windshield glass (03100), but the jet is actually a single oscillating stream. Only actuate the system momentarily to avoid sending more fluid than needed through the system. The windshield washer nozzle jet and bracket is not adjustable, and is mounted to the cowl vent screens. Do not apply shop air pressure. Do not insert any object to adjust or clean nozzles..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

Fluid Pump Removal in a 96; "...by Steve83, It's a PITA, but you can use a hooked pick to CAREFULLY release each tab of the locking ring behind the motor & work the ring out slowly. If you bend it, it probably won't lock again, & if you try to straighten a bent one, it will probably break; by Eric, got that ring out. I used a dental pick to get 3/4ths of the ring a little bit pulled up. Then I broke the pick. So I got my snap ring pliers and put on the curved long tip but put it on so it clamps when you squeeze the handle. Then I managed to grab a tab and pull it up some and it brought a few other tabs up with it and so I just slowly moved around and pulled up until it popped out. I also used a tiny bit of seafoam deep creep on it so it would slide out easier..."

From the FWIW Dept..... Or how to turn a 1/2 hour job into a 1-1/2 hour job;

Replaced my rusty, froze-up pump a few months ago.
Started (after the usual trouble shoot) by removing/disassembling/cleaning the reserviour etc.
After re-assembly, I replaced the long hose that feeds the spray system, filled the reserviour and was all set to use my new washer but...the new Tiawan (Airtex brand) pump wouldn't run.
Pulled connector, inserted test light into the hot side, pushed the switch and the light lit up just like it did during my original trouble shoot. Must be that the new pump is bad, right?....no, wrong. Keep reading.
Emptied and removed the reserviour ass'y (again).
Removed the pump (again).
Noted that the little pump wheel was still free.
Used a jumper wire to ground the pump straight to the (-)battery post and connected my test light probe to the (+)batt terminal. Poked the probe of the test light onto the (+)terminal of the pump and the dern thing ran fine. OK, must have a bad terminal connection at the harness connector, right? No, wrong again.
Visualy checked the harness plug (again). Yep, still clean. Poked my test light in there ( again). Yep, still got's good voltage. Wiggled the connector around to check for a possable broke wire inside. Nope, the light never even flickered. Wondered what the heck?
Visualy re-examined the new pump, but this time paying much more attention.
Looked and looked, finaly noticed that the two (male) connection terminals inside the new pump were smaller in diameter than the terminals in the original pump (I should have checked that to start with, huh?).:doh0715:.
Carefully squeezed the female connectors in the harness connector with pliers to skinny them down a hair.
Removed all my testing stuff, reinstalled the pump, plugged the harness back in, pushed the switch and this time the new pump ran.
Re-installed the whole thing (again), re-attached the new feed hose (again), filled the reserviour with fluid (again) and FINALY...I got's a windshield squirter.

Moral of the story....
Don't assume ANYTHING when working with overseas parts.:banghead.

DGW