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window washer

9292 Views 14 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  stangbanger
I have a 94' XLT, the resevoir is full but has stopped working. I can hear what I think is the pump, but no fluid comes out. Any ideas?
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Couple different possibilities.

One, a hole in the hose leading up to the nozzles. Have someone press in on the squirters while observing the hose.

Two, the nozzles are clogged. Follow the hose from the box to the end of the line, remove the end of the line, then have someone press in on the squirters to see if fluid comes out. If it comes out, you'll need to take a needle and push in the holes on the nozzles.
thanks I'll try both of those tomorrow
Disconnect the line under the fluid resevoir and activate the pump. If no washer fluid squirts out, replace the pump.
Those nozzles can clog easy I'd remove the tube from the nozzles like stated and see if the fluid is getting that far.If it is then the nozzles are bad. They should be pretty inexpensive through Ford.
Spray Nozzle Removal & Cleaning in 92-96; "...If you look closely where their bases meet the paint, you should find a tiny slot. If you insert a straightened paperclip, you'll compress the locking tab, and allow it to release easier..."
Source: by Steve83

Spray Nozzle Operation & Pattern Diagram in 92-96; "...The windshield washer system has two windshield washer nozzle jet and brackets (17603) located on the cowl vent screens (018A16). The washer system is activated by pushing in on the outboard end of the multi-function switch (13K359). This action energizes a windshield washer pump (17664) mounted inside a cavity in the windshield washer reservoir (17618 ). The windshield washer reservoir is mounted on the fender apron. If multi-function switch is in OFF or INT position, windshield wiper will run as long as knob is pushed in. When the knob is released, washers will stop immediately, but windshield wipers will continue to run for three to four cycles before returning to OFF or interval operation. If the multi-function switch is in LO or HI position, washers operate with no change in windshield wiper operation. NOTE: The windshield washer nozzle jet and bracket sprays windshield washer fluid in a fan-like pattern onto the windshield glass (03100), but the jet is actually a single oscillating stream. Only actuate the system momentarily to avoid sending more fluid than needed through the system. The windshield washer nozzle jet and bracket is not adjustable, and is mounted to the cowl vent screens. Do not apply shop air pressure. Do not insert any object to adjust or clean nozzles..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at

Fluid Pump Removal in a 96; " Steve83, It's a PITA, but you can use a hooked pick to CAREFULLY release each tab of the locking ring behind the motor & work the ring out slowly. If you bend it, it probably won't lock again, & if you try to straighten a bent one, it will probably break; by Eric, got that ring out. I used a dental pick to get 3/4ths of the ring a little bit pulled up. Then I broke the pick. So I got my snap ring pliers and put on the curved long tip but put it on so it clamps when you squeeze the handle. Then I managed to grab a tab and pull it up some and it brought a few other tabs up with it and so I just slowly moved around and pulled up until it popped out. I also used a tiny bit of seafoam deep creep on it so it would slide out easier..."
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A lot of fluids have a tendency to gel when mixed. I have seen pumps get clogged from this stuff. It clogs the pump and the nozzles. Clean out the tank, tubing, and nozzles. Try to use only one brand of fluid.
I removed the nozzles, and activated the switch--no fluid. I guess the pump is bad. Looks like I unconnect the coolant and the washer fluid hoses and loosen a bolt or two and a electrical connection then the resevoir tank will come out. Then will the tank removal easy? didn't quite understand the early post about removal, but maybe once the tank is out it will be obivous too me.
it'll come out once you do all that; most of the time, the mounts break-off.
If you read the 2nd Link I inserted, you can see what streetgang wrote; "...Any half ass parts store sells generic washer motors that will fit like a glove. It comes with all the crap you need including the lock ring......since the one on your truck is probably all rusted to hell. I did mine this past winter, and it took all of about 10 min. I have also since drilled out the tabs on the tank, and bolted it to the bracket..."
From the FWIW Dept..... Or how to turn a 1/2 hour job into a 1-1/2 hour job;

Replaced my rusty, froze-up pump a few months ago.
Started (after the usual trouble shoot) by removing/disassembling/cleaning the reserviour etc.
After re-assembly, I replaced the long hose that feeds the spray system, filled the reserviour and was all set to use my new washer but...the new Tiawan (Airtex brand) pump wouldn't run.
Pulled connector, inserted test light into the hot side, pushed the switch and the light lit up just like it did during my original trouble shoot. Must be that the new pump is bad, right?, wrong. Keep reading.
Emptied and removed the reserviour ass'y (again).
Removed the pump (again).
Noted that the little pump wheel was still free.
Used a jumper wire to ground the pump straight to the (-)battery post and connected my test light probe to the (+)batt terminal. Poked the probe of the test light onto the (+)terminal of the pump and the dern thing ran fine. OK, must have a bad terminal connection at the harness connector, right? No, wrong again.
Visualy checked the harness plug (again). Yep, still clean. Poked my test light in there ( again). Yep, still got's good voltage. Wiggled the connector around to check for a possable broke wire inside. Nope, the light never even flickered. Wondered what the heck?
Visualy re-examined the new pump, but this time paying much more attention.
Looked and looked, finaly noticed that the two (male) connection terminals inside the new pump were smaller in diameter than the terminals in the original pump (I should have checked that to start with, huh?).:doh0715:.
Carefully squeezed the female connectors in the harness connector with pliers to skinny them down a hair.
Removed all my testing stuff, reinstalled the pump, plugged the harness back in, pushed the switch and this time the new pump ran.
Re-installed the whole thing (again), re-attached the new feed hose (again), filled the reserviour with fluid (again) and FINALY...I got's a windshield squirter.

Moral of the story....
Don't assume ANYTHING when working with overseas parts.:banghead.

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thx, sounds like a good little project for me to tackle this saturday morning.

Had to change the drivers side headlight bulb today, after i was done started screwin with wiper fluid resevoir/pump/nozzle cause i saw post about 2-3 weeks ago on it. My nozzles haven't worked since i bought the bronco! I pulled nozzle cleaned them out got them working and put everything back together, NO JUICE!!! WTF:doh0715: Then i remembered my fine friends on FSB, went back in the house read through that post and DGW1949 had the fix(thanx). Just a little pressure to the female recepticle on plug;)and my little male:cry plug fit just right!!!! AND OUT CAME THE JUICE just in time for the 8-12 inches of snow they are calling for here in south jersey! Thank you everybody!:rockon
new pump, works great, fairly easy job. heading up skiing now
Im new to bronco ownership. I noticed the reservoir was bone dry and when i tried filling it up it just pours straight out of a 90 degree spout on the bottom of the tank. I also noticed no hose anywhere is sight and nothing hooked to where the plastic tube that feeds the spray nozzles. What am i missing here ? Where should i start to fix this? I notice what sounds like a relay clicking under the glove compartment when i try to use the spray control on the column.
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