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After 23 years of owning my Bronco, my window glass was starting to show signs of scratching and the power window motors sounded stressed. The windows would bind and jamb toward the bottom of the track and now my power door locks became intermittent. Most frustrating was this was not fixed even after replacing my window regulators and rebuilding my window motors. After consulting with a retired friend who had 25 years in the Body Shop Business, he stated that these were most likely easy fixes with new window weatherstripping and switch cleaning.
I found this to be a much easier project than I anticipated. And I appologize in advance for my poor and incomplete pictures, but at the time I was focused on the task at hand. Here is what I did:
First I ordered new window weatherstripping for both doors from Bronco Graveyard. They have complete kits for 1980-1986 and 1987-1996 Broncos, both at $69.00. These include both inner and outer belt line sweeps along with glass run weatherstripping. You can also buy separate parts, but why not do a complete service for the effort.
Window Weatherstrip Kit, (Both Doors) 80-86
Window Weatherstrip Kit (Both Doors) 87-97
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Next I gathered the required parts, tools and other materials. This included:
- White Litium Grease Spray
- Silicone Spray
- Electronic Cleaner
- Weatherstrip Adhesive
- Door Panel Removal Tool
- Replacement Door Panel Retaining Pins
- Socket Set
- Work Light
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I always replace the Door Panel Retaining Pins every time I remove the panels to prevent rattling. They are obtainable from Clips and Fasteners for $4.72 per pack of 25.
Ford Door Trim Panel Retainer, PRODUCT CODE: A12565, Replaces Ford N801925-S, 1981-On
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Tip: Make it a point to remove and replace the belt line sweeps one-by-one so you can identify the correct replacement. They go on specific sides and direction and the clips are spaced differently to match the door and panel mounting holes.
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Remove any Door Panel Retaing Screws and release the Door Panel Pins. I highly recommend that you use Door Panel Removal Tool. Slide it down and feel for the retaining pins, then pry them outward until they release one by one. Do not try to pull on the panel in order to release them all at once or risk damage to the Door Panel Retaining Pin Seats. If you try to use a screwdriver, you will hear cracking and other bad sounds.
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You then get to fight with the Door Handle by pulling it outward to remove the Door Panel. Be careful of the Window/Lock Switch Harness Wires if you have them. If you remove the 3 screws from the backside of the switch, you can remove it from the Door Panel and set it down. Then remove the plastic Weather Barrier sheet covering the inside door.
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Remove the Door Panel Belt Line Sweep by prying upward. They are held on by simple attached clips into holes in the Door Panel top. Go match it up to the exact replacement and remember where it gos.
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Next, pry the outer Belt Line Sweep upward from front to rear. These are also attached with simple clips into holes. Also match it up with the exact replacement and remember where it gos.
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Here is a reference for you to review back to. Note the location of the Glass Channel Support (Window Track) bolts. Now is the time to lube the Window Regulator with Lithium Grease. I also heavily flooded the Window/Lock Switch with Electrical Cleaner. After repeatedly manipulating the switches no more lock problems!!! Just like my friend advised...
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To release tension between the glass and door channel Weatherstrip, remove the front and rear Glass Channel Support Bolts, as referenced above.
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To further assist you with manipulating the Window Channel and new Weather Strip, consider removing your front speaker to make access for your hand. My Eclipse speakers are installed with Torx head screws. Be careful of the speaker wires before you disconnect them. Place the speaker wire ends in an accessible location, otherwise they may fall down into your door interior making it difficult to locate later.
![]()
Now you will remove the Window Channel Weatherstrip from the Window Opening. Note the Weatherstrip transition corner toward the top front vent window for proper orientation. Simply pull the Weatherstrip out starting at the front channel, then work your way to the top and rear. There may be minor spots of Weather Strip Adhesive, but just pull on it until it releases.
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Next, we get to remove the Weatherstrip from the front/rear Window Channel Runs located inside the door. Simply grab the old Weatherstrip tightly toward the window sill and pull upward until it releases. Obviously, do the front and rear separately so you have a direct vertical pull. You may have to wiggle the window glass a bit, but it will release without too much difficulty. Remove the Weatherstrip completely from the Window Track.
![]()
Here is a comparison of the of the new soft, plush and pliable replacement Glass Run Weatherstrip next to the old hard, crusty and stiff original one. Note how much wider the new Weatherstrip is. It will narrow when compressed against the glass within the Run Channel.
![]()
Now we will replace the Glass Run Weatherstrip. Raise the Window Glass so it is 3-4" from the bottom sill. Remember we need to orient the Weatherstrip with the transition corner toward the top front vent window, as we previously noted. We will be sliding it downward into the Glass Run Channel, first the front and then the rear. Due to friction, the Weatherstrip will only go about half way down. So to make it easy, lubricate the Run Channel inside the door before you start. I used Lithium Grease which worked great but I suppose you could use something like Silicone Lubricant or WD40. Only push down a few inches at a time while monitoring it's progress down the Glass Run Tracks inside the door. You may have to rock the window glass and reach inside your speaker hole to push outward on the Glass Channel, but with lubrication it was no problem.
![]()
Check to be sure that the Weatherstrip is fully inside the channel and around the Window Glass. If it is not, pull it out and start again using a free hand to press it in. It will seat better when the Window Glass is raised and lowered but it should be fairly well centered in the track.
![]()
When both sides are in, align the transition corner toward the top front vent window (as we previously noted) and start to reinsert the Weather Strip in the window opening. Push any slack back down into the Glass Run Channel. It is better to have enough pressure upward to be tight against the top of the window opening firmly holding the new Weatherstrip in place. Replace the Glass Channel Support Bolts and test the Window Glass through it's full range of motion visualizing that the Weatherstrip is fully seated in the window opening and the within the Glass Run Channel.
![]()
When everything is aligned and correct, Lower the window and pull out the Weatherstrip from the Window Opening top and upper corners. Place a few of dabs of Weatherstrip Adhesive in the window opening channel and replace the Weatherstrip. You do not need very much so don't over do it. It just reminds the Weatherstrip to stay in place.
![]()
Finally, install the new Outer Belt Line Sweep by aligning the clips and snapping it into place downward along the entire length. This is done now because it will rest on top of the Channel Run Weatherstrip. You may have to manipulate the rear arc to make it lay flat against the Weatherstrip.
![]()
Install the new Inner Belt Line Sweep onto the Door Panel Top by aligning the clips to the mounting holes, laying it flat against the mounting surface and snapping them into place downward.
![]()
Replace all of the Door Panel Retainers on the inside of the panel to prevent rattle and make a tight install. Now you get to fight with the door handle again by pulling it out until the Door Panel moves into place. I visually align the Door Retainer Pins in door holes by helping them center with a hook tool and then I push them into place. If the pins are not properly aligned with the door holes, they will bend requiring you to once again fight with the door handle while removing the Door Panel in order to replace them. Now that you know what you are doing, move onto the other side and do it again. :thumbup
Now, ain't that nice! :twotu: My window glass no longer binds at the bottom, my window motors sound much less stressed and my door lock switches work great! This is not difficult to do at all as long as you remember lubrication in the Window Channel Run is important. In the future, maintain your new Window Channel Run Weatherstrip by occasionally spraying Silicone Spray for lubricity with the Window Glass. Sorry again for the incomplete pictures but the descriptions should help alot. I also did my Rear Window Weatherstrip a couple of years ago and found it easy and intuitive. Sorry, no pics except for this one...
![]()
![]()
![]()
I found this to be a much easier project than I anticipated. And I appologize in advance for my poor and incomplete pictures, but at the time I was focused on the task at hand. Here is what I did:
First I ordered new window weatherstripping for both doors from Bronco Graveyard. They have complete kits for 1980-1986 and 1987-1996 Broncos, both at $69.00. These include both inner and outer belt line sweeps along with glass run weatherstripping. You can also buy separate parts, but why not do a complete service for the effort.
Window Weatherstrip Kit, (Both Doors) 80-86
Window Weatherstrip Kit (Both Doors) 87-97
Next I gathered the required parts, tools and other materials. This included:
- White Litium Grease Spray
- Silicone Spray
- Electronic Cleaner
- Weatherstrip Adhesive
- Door Panel Removal Tool
- Replacement Door Panel Retaining Pins
- Socket Set
- Work Light
I always replace the Door Panel Retaining Pins every time I remove the panels to prevent rattling. They are obtainable from Clips and Fasteners for $4.72 per pack of 25.
Ford Door Trim Panel Retainer, PRODUCT CODE: A12565, Replaces Ford N801925-S, 1981-On
Tip: Make it a point to remove and replace the belt line sweeps one-by-one so you can identify the correct replacement. They go on specific sides and direction and the clips are spaced differently to match the door and panel mounting holes.
Remove any Door Panel Retaing Screws and release the Door Panel Pins. I highly recommend that you use Door Panel Removal Tool. Slide it down and feel for the retaining pins, then pry them outward until they release one by one. Do not try to pull on the panel in order to release them all at once or risk damage to the Door Panel Retaining Pin Seats. If you try to use a screwdriver, you will hear cracking and other bad sounds.
You then get to fight with the Door Handle by pulling it outward to remove the Door Panel. Be careful of the Window/Lock Switch Harness Wires if you have them. If you remove the 3 screws from the backside of the switch, you can remove it from the Door Panel and set it down. Then remove the plastic Weather Barrier sheet covering the inside door.
Remove the Door Panel Belt Line Sweep by prying upward. They are held on by simple attached clips into holes in the Door Panel top. Go match it up to the exact replacement and remember where it gos.
Next, pry the outer Belt Line Sweep upward from front to rear. These are also attached with simple clips into holes. Also match it up with the exact replacement and remember where it gos.
Here is a reference for you to review back to. Note the location of the Glass Channel Support (Window Track) bolts. Now is the time to lube the Window Regulator with Lithium Grease. I also heavily flooded the Window/Lock Switch with Electrical Cleaner. After repeatedly manipulating the switches no more lock problems!!! Just like my friend advised...
To release tension between the glass and door channel Weatherstrip, remove the front and rear Glass Channel Support Bolts, as referenced above.
To further assist you with manipulating the Window Channel and new Weather Strip, consider removing your front speaker to make access for your hand. My Eclipse speakers are installed with Torx head screws. Be careful of the speaker wires before you disconnect them. Place the speaker wire ends in an accessible location, otherwise they may fall down into your door interior making it difficult to locate later.
Now you will remove the Window Channel Weatherstrip from the Window Opening. Note the Weatherstrip transition corner toward the top front vent window for proper orientation. Simply pull the Weatherstrip out starting at the front channel, then work your way to the top and rear. There may be minor spots of Weather Strip Adhesive, but just pull on it until it releases.
Next, we get to remove the Weatherstrip from the front/rear Window Channel Runs located inside the door. Simply grab the old Weatherstrip tightly toward the window sill and pull upward until it releases. Obviously, do the front and rear separately so you have a direct vertical pull. You may have to wiggle the window glass a bit, but it will release without too much difficulty. Remove the Weatherstrip completely from the Window Track.
Here is a comparison of the of the new soft, plush and pliable replacement Glass Run Weatherstrip next to the old hard, crusty and stiff original one. Note how much wider the new Weatherstrip is. It will narrow when compressed against the glass within the Run Channel.
Now we will replace the Glass Run Weatherstrip. Raise the Window Glass so it is 3-4" from the bottom sill. Remember we need to orient the Weatherstrip with the transition corner toward the top front vent window, as we previously noted. We will be sliding it downward into the Glass Run Channel, first the front and then the rear. Due to friction, the Weatherstrip will only go about half way down. So to make it easy, lubricate the Run Channel inside the door before you start. I used Lithium Grease which worked great but I suppose you could use something like Silicone Lubricant or WD40. Only push down a few inches at a time while monitoring it's progress down the Glass Run Tracks inside the door. You may have to rock the window glass and reach inside your speaker hole to push outward on the Glass Channel, but with lubrication it was no problem.
Check to be sure that the Weatherstrip is fully inside the channel and around the Window Glass. If it is not, pull it out and start again using a free hand to press it in. It will seat better when the Window Glass is raised and lowered but it should be fairly well centered in the track.
When both sides are in, align the transition corner toward the top front vent window (as we previously noted) and start to reinsert the Weather Strip in the window opening. Push any slack back down into the Glass Run Channel. It is better to have enough pressure upward to be tight against the top of the window opening firmly holding the new Weatherstrip in place. Replace the Glass Channel Support Bolts and test the Window Glass through it's full range of motion visualizing that the Weatherstrip is fully seated in the window opening and the within the Glass Run Channel.
When everything is aligned and correct, Lower the window and pull out the Weatherstrip from the Window Opening top and upper corners. Place a few of dabs of Weatherstrip Adhesive in the window opening channel and replace the Weatherstrip. You do not need very much so don't over do it. It just reminds the Weatherstrip to stay in place.
Finally, install the new Outer Belt Line Sweep by aligning the clips and snapping it into place downward along the entire length. This is done now because it will rest on top of the Channel Run Weatherstrip. You may have to manipulate the rear arc to make it lay flat against the Weatherstrip.
Install the new Inner Belt Line Sweep onto the Door Panel Top by aligning the clips to the mounting holes, laying it flat against the mounting surface and snapping them into place downward.
Replace all of the Door Panel Retainers on the inside of the panel to prevent rattle and make a tight install. Now you get to fight with the door handle again by pulling it out until the Door Panel moves into place. I visually align the Door Retainer Pins in door holes by helping them center with a hook tool and then I push them into place. If the pins are not properly aligned with the door holes, they will bend requiring you to once again fight with the door handle while removing the Door Panel in order to replace them. Now that you know what you are doing, move onto the other side and do it again. :thumbup
Now, ain't that nice! :twotu: My window glass no longer binds at the bottom, my window motors sound much less stressed and my door lock switches work great! This is not difficult to do at all as long as you remember lubrication in the Window Channel Run is important. In the future, maintain your new Window Channel Run Weatherstrip by occasionally spraying Silicone Spray for lubricity with the Window Glass. Sorry again for the incomplete pictures but the descriptions should help alot. I also did my Rear Window Weatherstrip a couple of years ago and found it easy and intuitive. Sorry, no pics except for this one...
