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Discussion Starter #1
Last week I commented on an insurance thread about what would happen if some asshat hit me!!! Thank God it was not the Bronco but a soccer mom in a Toyota Sequoyah decided to do a pit maneuver on the 2008 ford focus this morning. Cop gave her the ticket for failure to yield to oncoming traffic.... but now my gas sipper is "hurt real bad". She has full coverage from Allstate so I'm sure a check is coming. I think they will total it out since the blue book is around $4,500... and the passenger side air bags deployed. My question is from the damage below is it worth doing the salvage title and repairing her? I really enjoy this car.... but she hit that tire very hard. I am not sure if I can ever get it straight again.


Addicted to Junk
10,411 Posts
Should be salvageable. Most it would need would be the axle assembly. Are the wheel studs pulled out or bent slightly? Kinda looks that way in one pic.

When a guy pulled (a u turn from the onramp) in front of me at 65mph, the whole passenger side of the car (03 mustang) had ripples and creases from the impact. The roof, the floor pan, subframe, firewall and the whole front corner are toast. I hit with the right front corner right in front of his driver door. Was essentially a T-bone.

The floor was resting on the subframe connector...

8" crease in the firewall

Roof damage was minimal, but it shows how far the force of impact can travel. Things you may not think were damaged can be.

Insurance totalled it, for $9800. I opted to keep it, so they 'only' paid me $9000


Super Moderator
23,353 Posts
Yo Paul,
What a bummer!
It may be repairable.

Is the Rear Suspension askew?
"The rear suspension uses 3 parallel arms (one upper and 2 lowers). Each arm has a mounting position to the chassis and an attachment at the wheel knuckle. This suspension allows the wheels to react to road imperfections independent of eachother. The shock absorber mounts to the wheel knuckle and along with the spring, controls vertical movement. A stabilizer bar and links are included to control suspension lean/sway."
"Inspection and Verification
Road test the vehicle.
Inspect if any suspension alignment or ride height concerns are present.
Verify the customer concern by carrying out a road test on a smooth road. Any vibrations?

Inspect the tires.
Check the tire pressures with all normal loads in the vehicle and the tires cold. Refer to the Vehicle Certification (VC) label.
Verify that all tires are sized to specification. Refer to the VC label.
Inspect the tires for incorrect wear and damage. Install new tires as necessary.
Inspect the chassis and underbody.
Remove any excessive accumulation of mud, dirt or road deposits from the chassis and underbody.
Inspect for aftermarket equipment. miesk5 note, this could be used to lower payout

Check for aftermarket changes to the steering, suspension, and wheel and tire components (such as competition or heavy duty). The specifications shown in this manual do not apply to vehicles equipped with aftermarket equipment. miesk5 note, this could be used to lower payout

Visual Inspection Chart:
Front or rear suspension components
Suspension fastener(s)
Incorrect spring usage. miesk5 note, such as a lift or lowering attempt, this could be used to lower payout

Shock absorber(s)
Suspension bushing(s)
Wheel bearing and wheel hub(s)
Non-OEM parts or modifications. miesk5 note, this could be used to lower payout
If an obvious cause for an observed or reported condition is found, correct the cause (if possible)"

by Automobile Repair Reference Center (ARRC)* with notes by me.

Premium Member
4,042 Posts
tie rod type arms you can get new (consumable wear parts) cheap. Rest can be easily and cheaply sourced from the major self pull yards near Atlanta. Bumper cover is some plastic tabs that may be able to be repaired to save you some money. Rest is body work. I would retain the vehicle after they pay you. Focuses are very common in self pull yards and that is your cheapest source for the parts.
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