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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thursday morning leaving for work I try to start the Bronco up but it does not on the first attempt. She always starts up on the first attempt.

Second attempt she fires right up and I drive to work.

Leaving from work I get the exact same same scenario and I start wondering.

Drive to the golf course, park and play.

Leaving the golf course she fails to start on the first two attempts. Third attempt she starts. Now I'm really thinking this isn't right.

Drive home and park it for the night.

Next morning I try to leave for work and she won't start period. Turn the key and she keeps cranking away but will not fire. I turn the key to the auxilary position I guess you call it where the dash lights come on and listen. Where there used to be the sound of the fuel pump there is now silence with one audible click at the end that comes from under the hood I think (fuel pump relay?).

If this click is indeed the fuel pump relay would that be a good indication that it is fine?

If the fuel pump is no longer making that sound it does when you turn the key would that be a good indication that it's the high pressure fuel pump on the rail that is causing the problem?

Fuel filter was replace in February has about 4k miles on it.

Patient is an 89 Bronco XLT, 302, automatic, 140k miles
 

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i had a similar problem with mine, it turned out to be a couple of things working against eachother. is your check engine light on? even if it isnt, do a self test anyway, it may give you codes even with the light off. i would replace the fuel pump relay anyway, its cheap and might be your problem, and it might keep you from being stranded someday. like 6 bucks at a parts store.

post what the self test tells you.

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13 go there to learn how to do the self test, its simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No lights were being displayed before or during this problem but I will check anyways and post the results. Replacing the Fuel Pump Relay is quick, cheap and easy so I'll try that as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Checked codes and there were none. When I turned the key I could have sworn I heard the pump. Tried to start and she sputered and died. Tired to crank her over again and she just kept cranking. Unplugged the fuel pump relay and plugged it back in. Now she starts and runs just fine. Hard too believe there was a loose connection there. Those relays snap in there pretty dang tight but maybe. Is there any chance a relay can be intermittant?
 

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yes. everytime the relay engauges, it makes a small spark on the contacts inside the relay, which can wear out or build carbon up on the contact. i would replace that relay anyway, i bet you just put a bandaid on it, next time it happens you will probably be on a date :cry or late for work :banghead. haha glad that worked.
 

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yes. everytime the relay engauges, it makes a small spark on the contacts inside the relay, which can wear out or build carbon up on the contact. i would replace that relay anyway, i bet you just put a bandaid on it, next time it happens you will probably be on a date :cry or late for work :banghead. haha glad that worked.
Would a relay stop working while driving, in hot, muggy weather on a side street at a stop light after you give it gas to go?

Regardless..I'm replacing mine.. if cheap and easy, wont hurt!!:beer
 

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idk man... when i had my problem, i would replace something the computer told me was malfunctioning, then drive it and see if it fixed the problem... 2 times i thought i fixed it, but then it happened again randomly. even though the codes were no coming back (meaning the part i replaced needed to be replaced anyway), i figured i would eventually fix the problem, and hopefully avoid future problems at the same time... unfortunantly, were not working with new trucks. never the less, i feel like my truck will get me home now after replacing fuel pump/ eec relays, idle speed control, egr, egr sensor, barometric sensor, and cleaning the throttle tubes, all costing me around $200 and taking 2 afternoons including getting parts.

somehow, the certified master tech at my favorite local shop couldnt figure out it was the idle speed control causing the stalling problem... a conclusion i came to after reading the codes on the computer, a test requireing a wire and a pen. he got paid to tell me it was that relay, he was wrong. the moral of the story is trust your gut.. better, read on FSB alot.. i think you will be surprised at what you find. i spent a couple hours reading when i found out how to do the self test. without that, who knows where i would be now.

heres to that! :drinkbud
 

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the IAC opens and closes to allow the truck to idle, and it sounds like its an idle related problem.. try the iac, especially if you can smell gas coming out of the tail pipe when it will not start.. without air at idle, its not going to fire.
 
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