Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
ok so 88 5.0 no fuel getting to engine (i think) it starts when u put flouid into the throttle body but then immediatly dies, i had it going this morning but it wont start now, its efi has 150k and has *spark*
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
22,393 Posts
Exactly how many search results did you read thru? :scratchhe Because this sounds EXACTLY like every other "won't start" thread I can remember. :deal
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
cause i looked at other ones and there solutions wont fix mine
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,126 Posts
First check if you are getting spark. If you are, then it is fuel delivery (one of the two pumps or the filter). If there is no spark.... start at the plugs and go back.
 

·
Practicing Infidel
Joined
·
15,308 Posts
88Juicer said:
ok so 88 5.0 no fuel getting to engine (i think) it starts when u put flouid into the throttle body but then immediatly dies, i had it going this morning but it wont start now, its efi has 150k and has fuel

If'n it starts with alcohol shot down it's throats

and runs normally once it's warmed up, then I'd be suspectin' the coolant temperature sensor. If'n it's dead then nothing tells the computer the engine is cold and no idle enrichment occurs.

By pulling the codes you can hear what the truck knows is wrong with it'sef'. If it's CTS is dead the codes will tell you. Or you could blow $20 blindly and switch it like I did, on a hunch.

Sixlitre
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
ok its definitly getting spark, i saw it working, now would my next course of action be to get the codes? and if so isnt there a way to get the codes without a codechecker?

also when starter fluid is "shot down its throught" it starts for a second or just sputters but doesnt stay on, and i forgot to say earlier in the day i was messing with the battery and when taking one of the terminals off it was sparking a lot since the terminal cable ends were so corroded, maybe i blew a sensor or soemthing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Some days I think people get over excited about "pulling codes" IMO. Alot of promblems can be soved without the codes. In fact it can be very confusing for someone without good diagnostic experience to pull codes and the comp says nothing is wrong. Sounds like a typical dead fuel pump to me. First, pull your fuel filter and replace it, don't check it just replace it, it's cheap. Next, see if you have fuel in the fuel rail. If there is fuel and no pressure go to the in-line pressure pump. If there is no fuel at all, get ready to pull your tank. One last thing before you give up and get ready to pull pumps, double check to make sure the bothe pumps have power. Oh yeah just for s&g's make sure your intertia switch isn't tripped.
 

·
Ex Navy Nuke
Joined
·
5,421 Posts
No, first test or swap out the FP relay and/or the EEC relay(if you have spares(you can get them free at any u-pullit)). When you turn the key do you hear the FP come on? It could be the FP but you want to test the FP ckt first to see what component failed. Best case, all you have to do is reset the inertia switch. Worst case fuel pump is bad. Very likely FP or EEC relay.
 

·
Practicing Infidel
Joined
·
15,308 Posts
Got around to slapping the new CTS in today

Turned off all the kill switches and relays and fired that mutha up ! First crank ! What a frickin' relief ! I guess the CTS must have been dead since May, I just never noticed the lack of a choke-type action on the EFI until it got colder.

Lately I'd been starting the beast with a couple of shots of alcohol down it's throats to start it up. NO MO' ! It's fixed !

Noticed it not settling back down to it's lowest idle and since the throttle body linkage cover was off, I investigated.

Lubed up all the cables and springs, etc and added a carb return spring to help it until the lube works in.

Happy camper !!!!!!!!!

Sixlitre
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
RLKBOB said:
No, first test or swap out the FP relay and/or the EEC relay(if you have spares(you can get them free at any u-pullit)). When you turn the key do you hear the FP come on? It could be the FP but you want to test the FP ckt first to see what component failed. Best case, all you have to do is reset the inertia switch. Worst case fuel pump is bad. Very likely FP or EEC relay.

:scratchhe I would have thought checking for power at the pumps would have checked the relays. But, I guess your right swap out the relays for an unknown (possibly worse) relay before you know the first one is even bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,896 Posts
Any fuel delivery question I have the easiest way to check for that.

Undo the fuel line before the filter and blip the ignition, if fuel comes out yer pump is good.. Keep walking your way up the line till after the 2nd pump.. if it still comes out then it would be something like yer FPR or not a fuel problem. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Spectre said:
Any fuel delivery question I have the easiest way to check for that.

Undo the fuel line before the filter and blip the ignition, if fuel comes out yer pump is good.. Keep walking your way up the line till after the 2nd pump.. if it still comes out then it would be something like yer FPR or not a fuel problem. :)

That's good for making sure the transfer pump works, but it does nothing for checking the pressure pump. Still need to run a pressure gauge and make sure that pressure pump is up to snuff. That is assuming the FPR is good, which I would replace first before the pump, but again they generally leak when they go bad.
 

·
Ex Navy Nuke
Joined
·
5,421 Posts
skumandeth said:
:scratchhe I would have thought checking for power at the pumps would have checked the relays. But, I guess your right swap out the relays for an unknown (possibly worse) relay before you know the first one is even bad.
Yeah you can check for power at the pumps and if there is power but the pump doesn't run then yes the pump is bad. I'm just saying you can also check the power to the pump(out of the relay) under the hood. My advice was mainly directed at the situation where there is no power to the pump in which case it's probably one of the relays.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top