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Discussion Starter #1
Turn the key and nothing happens. Fuel pump primes and that's it.
Replaced the starter solenoid, but then I contacted both terminals (the power ones, not the starter one) with my wrench (yeah yeah, but I had to have the battery connected because that was my only source of light), so I may have damaged it?

I get 13v across the two main terminals on the solenoid. 13v across the third terminal when the ignition switch is depressed (didn't think to check what it reads with the switch off, but it's too late now).

However, when I tested the voltage going to the starter itself, I get no reading. I'm testing with the positive on the cable going to the starter and the negative going to any ground I can think of (this is while the switch is depressed). I should get a reading here, shouldn't I? Or would a roasted starter cause a near 0v reading?

I really need to get this fixed in the morning, as this is my "backup" vehicle :histerica :drinkbud
 

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Lick my balls
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starter relay could be hooped
 

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Try it now!!
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Take the wrench and put it across the large post on the relay the battery is connected to and the small post that activates the relay.

If the relay doesnt trip, its your relay.
If it does, check continuity between both large posts.

-Will
 

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All right do this to get it running if you really need to get it going its ok to jump the terminals on the solenoid. so take a screw driver NOT A WRENCH its (not insolated morons) and touch it to the to large termanels it will spark so don't jump. as it sparks the motor will turn. O and make sure the key is in the on posision not the start posision. And a nother thought there is 2 little terminals are you shure that it is rite side up? well i hope it works out for you and good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My original was one terminal, the new is two terminals, but I only use the one marked "S".

Though I did just replace the relay a year and a half ago... If it's that, wouldn't it be safe to say I probably have another problem somewhere?
 

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Muddman4x4 said:
All right do this to get it running if you really need to get it going its ok to jump the terminals on the solenoid. so take a screw driver NOT A WRENCH its (not insolated morons) and touch it to the to large termanels it will spark so don't jump. as it sparks the motor will turn. O and make sure the key is in the on posision not the start posision. And a nother thought there is 2 little terminals are you shure that it is rite side up? well i hope it works out for you and good luck
:histerica

First off, if you touch a wrench across those two terminals, the current is going to travel the path of least resistance, which is going to be one inch from the power terminal, to the starter feed. It wouldn't go to you no matter what, your body has way too much resistance for it to pick you over the starter.

Second, its "insulated". :twak
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Welp, the starter was toast. I pulled it and opened it up and everything looked burned. AZ tested it and they said it was dead too. Got the new one... That gives me a starter, alt, MC, and brake pads with lifetime waranties. Eventually I'm going to have a truck with free parts :toothless
 

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Good to hear you got it figured out.


I thought MuddMan promised he would leave us forever...thought we were getting lucky :histerica
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Nearly killed you?? What happened?
(The MC and brake pads are both O'Reilly, not that they're much different, and I'll probably switch the brake pads back to raybestos and just keep the o'reilly pads for backups)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh yeah. There's no way in hell I'd use AZ parts for mechanically stressed stuff. I get my U-joints from a place called Automotive Driveline here in Hurst. Great folks with a fair price. I like them and the jeep club that I talk to (all 38s or larger, they're a little built ;) ) swears by them. As far as anyone I've talked to, they have the best U-joints around.

But enough of the shameless plug. Those U-joints/tie rod end you got didn't have a lifetime warranty did they???
 

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The Anti Yam!
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You guys really dont understand chain parts store lifetime parts do you.

There is a reason the Lifetime (no name brand) parts cost less than the ones with a 1 year woranty.

Lets take starters for example.
The reman unit has a lifetime woranty. But they are remaned so cheaply that even after you return it 3 times they (the reman company) have still made a profit off of it.

The NEW (Motercraft or A/C delco) starters, that cost more and only have a one year woranty are much better, and longer lasting units.

Thats why you never buy anything from a chain parts store unleas it is a Name Brand Part. Or you dont mind it failing again in 2 months.
 

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Steve83 said:
Yep. But I want my lifetime to be a little longer... ;)
True.

New meaning of the phrase "lifetime warranty"-
If they break they're guaranteed to leave your face on the side of the road :thumbup
 

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Muddman4x4 said:
so take a screw driver NOT A WRENCH its (not insolated morons)
I repeated "wrench" under the assumption he and his truck would not be covered in sal****er.

Provided you are dry, you can touch any 12V source all day. You touch 9V batteries dont you? 12 is only 3 volts more.

-Will
 

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kf4amu said:
I repeated "wrench" under the assumption he and his truck would not be covered in sal****er.

Provided you are dry, you can touch any 12V source all day. You touch 9V batteries dont you? 12 is only 3 volts more.

-Will
Heh, took me a second to figure out why your post was censored, it's salt water :duh
 

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-Spazmatic- said:
Heh, took me a second to figure out why your post was censored, it's salt water :duh
:histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica :histerica
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Gacknar said:
You guys really dont understand chain parts store lifetime parts do you.

...

Thats why you never buy anything from a chain parts store unleas it is a Name Brand Part. Or you dont mind it failing again in 2 months.
Which is why I have good U-joints etc. But if the starter dies again, who cares? That's what anti-sieze is for. I really couldn't care less if I have to replace the starter 50 times. If it's free, it's free. Though to be fair, only the duralast (or whatever their top brand is) has the lifetime warranty, and it's not a reman.

And as for the battery "only" being 12 Volts. The voltage doesn't matter. You can complete a 10,000V circuit and be fine... if the current is low. A 9v battery has current measured in mAh... The 12v in the bronco has 100+ cranking Amps. It takes 1A to stop the human heart... I'd rather not complete a circuit in my truck. Granted I probably wouldn't in that case, why risk it when I could do it with a screwdriver or insulated pliers? Better safe than sorry, I say.
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Ubermich said:
I really couldn't care less if I have to replace the starter 50 times. If it's free, it's free.
Yea but it is kinda embarrassing when your on a date and your truck leaves you and your girl stranded at Longhorn because you used the cheap starter.

It's really embarrassing if it happens once a month.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Gacknar said:
Yea but it is kinda embarrassing when your on a date and your truck leaves you and your girl stranded at Longhorn because you used the cheap starter.

It's really embarrassing if it happens once a month.
Date? Like, with a female??? :confused: :scratchhe :wacko :rofl:
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Ubermich said:
Date? Like, with a female??? :confused: :scratchhe :wacko :rofl:
Yea.... I mean if your into that sorta thing.

They do have girls where you live dont thay? :toothless
 
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