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Ok, this is my first write-up, so there is bound to be a lot of edits and please, let me know if it is too much info. This was done on a 1994 351W.

I got a lot of my info from fordfuelinjection.com and Haynes manual.

I ordered the rebuild kit off ebay from user bjcda (http://stores.ebay.com/Mr-Injector_W0QQssPageNameZl2QQtZkm)
This is a good kit (he sends extra parts in case you screw up) and a good vendor.

You will need a long T40 torx screw to remove the one bolt on the middle of the passengers side of the intake and a 3/8 and 1/2 fuel rail disconnect tool.



First, relieve fuel pressure, mine had been sitting for 2 days, so I didn't worry about it.


Remove the throttle cable cover and throttle cable



Next, remove the vacuum lines from the vacuum tree and from what I assume is the AC. Also remove the PCV line. You might want to label if you have a memory like mine.



Next remove the air intake tubes and the wiring plugs on top and bottom of the throttle body. The bottom one is a pain.



Remove the vacuum lines and coolant lines from the throttle body. You should lose some coolant. If not, your line is probably clogged, like mine was.



Unscrew the EGR valve and this nut.



Remove the nut and stud holding on this bracket



You are now ready to remove the 6 bolts from the intake. It may help to disconnect the distributor cap. Remove intake and gasket.



If your engine looks like mine, I would plug up the intake ports and vacuum up all the crap around the fuel injectors before removal.



Remove the fuel rail bolts, and disconnect the ruel rail using the special tools. Now rock the rail back and forth to remove.



Remove injectors from the ruel rail by rocking them back and forth. Some of the rubber seals may stick in the rail. Make sure you remove them before you replace injectors.

Now wire up your a test injector circuit. I got my connector from Carquest. Oreilly's and Advance couldn't find one. This is a simple circuit that I wired to the battery. I wired the negative and left the positive loose. I plugged in the injector and touched the positive wire to the + battery terminal. You should hear a click. I did on 7 of 8 injectors. On the other injector, I could hear that it was trying, but it did not open/shut.



Remove the filter in the injector by screwing a #10 machine screw into the filter (according to fordfuelinjection.com). I didn't have a #10 machine screw, so I found one that worked. If you use a longer screw like I did, make sure you do not screw it in too far or you could probably damage the injector. I put the screw in a vise, twisted the injector onto the screw, then rocked the injector back and forth while pulling it out. And pay not attention to all the crap in the background.



Old and new filters



To remove the pintle cap, use either a hard plastic or wood dowl and push firmly on the back side of the cap. If you are like me, you will probably break them before the actually come off. That is why you shouldn't use a screw driver. Remove the upper and lower rubber seal.

Soak the injectors over night is Chemtool.



After soaking, reconnect the injector to your test circuit (I hard wired + this time) and blow out the injector from the bottom. Make sure you point it away from anything or anyone of value.



Rebuild the injectors with your new parts. I pressed the filter and pintel cap on by firmly pressing them into a wood block.





Lubricate the seals with a little grease before you reinstall. That helped a lot. I also recommend putting the injectors into the block first, then slipping on the fuel rail.

Now put everything back together. :thumbup

Bigger pictures can be found on my supermotors account.
http://www.supermotors.org/mygarage/vehicles/content.php?id=8824&sID=26017
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
If you don't include the soaking over night, I would say 4-5 hrs. Figuring out how to take everything apart took the longest. It probably only took me an hour to put it all back together.

I would also recommend a second set of hands when removing/replacing the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did it make a difference? Well, to tell you the truth, I have other problems with the Bronco, so I can't tell a whole lot. I was hoping this would fix the problem. I will say, it is not running as rich as it was before I did it.

Everyone please feel free to use the pictures and writeup where ever you want.
 

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its not the color, its the shape that matters
oh it looks liek the EV1

test injector circuit. I got my connector from Carquest. Oreilly's and Advance couldn't find one. This is a simple circuit that I wired to the battery.

Is this what you are refering to?
And no I want to rebuild them and clean them.
 

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are those interchangaeable? whats the difference besides the body shape?
NO, difference in pintle caps and design

is there a way to tell if your injectors are clogged? also will a clogged injectoir lower FE?
You will need to take them into a service shop. Basically, they flow rate each injector with calibrated Fuel/PSI and measure the flow that's collected

The ev1's are better. they flow more fuel... hence why new mustang guys convert to the ev1's
laughable at best & I will leave it at that.

But, 19Lb/ph is just that , 19Lb/ph. But how it 's delivered out of the nozzle is another thing.

The injector discharge holes on the later series of bosch injectors helps with the mix and atomization of fuel to air thru the pintle cap or common know as directorplate.

This is why Bosch went to the EV6 style to increase the atomization of fuel to air across all pressure ranges. EV1 are prone with fuel fall, out if line pressure is changed or regulator is modified.

No mustang guys or girls that I know of would ever consider a EV1 over a EV6. As a matter of fact, a car that I know ( my old mustang ) ran 1/4 times betters when injectors where changed from EV1 to EV6s.
 

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so is there an injector the ev1s can be replaced with for better atomization and FE?
Any of the later years 19/lb injectors out of a car or explorer or mountaineers would be my pick if you wanted to change. They all comes with 4 ports and different pintle caps and are the skinny ones.


As long as you don't place EV12 on the rail, you should be good. Also ford made some changes around 1999-2000 from square to oval wiring harness on some.
 

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those will fit? and theyll help fuek efficiency? didnt someoen just say an ev6 wont work in place of an ev1? how do i know if theyre 19lb injectors?
Ford Explorers/Mountaineers and CV with 5.0L all have 19lb injectors. You can validate by gathering the part# and checking on line or contacting a injector repair/exchange house

http://www.precisionautoinjectors.com/product.sc?productId=1

part#s of common ev6 injectors are the following

orange color bodies, 4 hole style ( found on 5.0L mustang, CrownVic, Exp/Mtn'eers )

pn#: f6ve-a5a

yellowish or not as much orange imho ( found on Exp/Mnt'eers, CV )

pn#: f5se-a1b


Both of these are ev6 styles. Will fit our fuel rails, and easy to repair or get parts for. I would start with one of these 2 as base set for build up or to send in for repair or for flow tests.

FWIW: You can make upwards to about 280hp with 19lb injectors and a rail pressure of 39psi and stay under 92% duty cycle. If you plan on more horse or future mods, don't even waste your time farting around with 19lb, get 24lb injectors for your base and build.
 

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what are the ev6 injectors found on?




part#s of common ev6 injectors are the following

orange color bodies, 4 hole style ( found on 5.0L mustang, CrownVic, Exp/Mtn'eers )

pn#: f6ve-a5a

yellowish or not as much orange imho ( found on Exp/Mnt'eers, CV )

pn#: f5se-a1b

 

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I have the yellowish ones, but the pn is f4se-a1b. Ive seen them on mercury cougars and lincoln towncars also.
yes,thanks for bringing that up. The lincoln TC are big users of these.

so would you buy from that link i showed or would you hit the wrecking yard up?
depends, if you want to repair or have them repaired by others. The Fuel injector shops will flow test them or at least the shop I posted wich is in Orlando FL.

A injector repair kit which will include cap, o-rings and basket filters, are about $20-25.00 for a set of 6 iirc. So you can decides what's best for you and your budget.
 

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there is one T40 bolt down the center

Thanks Fireguy! My T-40 is too wide to fit in from the top. Gonna have to slide it in from the side and then drop my Ratchet extension in on top of it. Much appreciated! A perfect example of why I love this site.
 
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