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negative creep
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dynatrac uses ball joint knuckles on there d60s. sounds like thats the price the shop has to pay for messing your junk up.
 

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Swamp Donkey said:
Andy, where did you buy the reamer to ream your knuckles for the Chevy TREs? I found a new knuckle but want to ream it myself this time. How much was it? Thanks
Did you even try a Google search?

"Chevy TRE reamer" is a good start.

My search came up with a GREAT page as the first link!
:histerica
 

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Lurker
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617 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I took them both d60 knuckles to ream for 1 ton TREs and they reamed one from the bottom side and the other from the top side. I suppose a sleeve could be put in and filled in with weld, but that is not they way I want to do it.

N,
I appreciate the time you took to tell me to search, which I had done, but I remembered from way back that some on this board were just passing around a reamer for other to use and I was hoping to get in on that.
 

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Swamp Donkey said:
N,
I appreciate the time you took to tell me to search, which I had done, but I remembered from way back that some on this board were just passing around a reamer for other to use and I was hoping to get in on that.
For a CHEAP one time use, you could try the Snap-on one...
I'd guess someone local has one, it seem every big off-road club has one guy with one.

Good luck
 

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Well Done Man!
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Swamp Donkey said:
I took them both d60 knuckles to ream for 1 ton TREs and they reamed one from the bottom side and the other from the top side. I suppose a sleeve could be put in and filled in with weld, but that is not they way I want to do it.

N,
I appreciate the time you took to tell me to search, which I had done, but I remembered from way back that some on this board were just passing around a reamer for other to use and I was hoping to get in on that.
ok, I understand, but I ran a sleeve in one for many years.
the OD was 3/4 so you drilled a 3/4 hole, pressed it in, welded it. it was already done for a GM tre.

If you want to sell the kunckle, I have friends that may want it.
 

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drill them both out 3/4", no taper. Use 3/4" bolts, heim joints, and steel tubing for the links. I did this at both knuckles and the pitman arm. Might be cheaper than some of those aftermarket knuckles, and prob stronger than TREs... Depending on what size tubing you use, it's def stronger than stock steering links.


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