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Currently prepping my 10.25 Sterling to install into my 1994 Bronco, which is already lifted 6 inches. The Sterling came out of a 1996 F250 SRW. I’ve searched several threads on here discussing the swap but I’m still unsure about a few things:


1) Im assuming this axle should be the long yoke because it’s a later model Sterling but how do I connect it to the Bronco’s stock driveshaft? I’ve noticed some mention a slip yoke or a conversion u-joint. Which one is it and what size (ie. 1330 to 1350). I believe the flange from the stock Bronco driveshaft that connects to the 8.8 yoke can be removed and then I can simply add a conversion u-joint to connect to the Sterling yoke, no?

2) I currently have 4” lift blocks, but would I use the stock Bronco 8.8 shim or do I use the stock F250 block with my lift block, or all three?

3) Anyone have a part number for a stainless flex brake hose that connects to the axle hard brake line splitter that’ll fit the Sterling?
 

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As to your first question. I personally would get a driveline shop to build a new driveshaft with the bronco flange for the T case on one end and whatever the sterling needs on the other. Shouldn't be too expensive. If your driveshaft is already the correct length and you don't want to get one built you would find out what conversion joint you need by looking up the u joints on your bronco driveshaft and the sterling axle then buy a joint with those sizes.

You can run a shim and a block but running two blocks is a big no no. You will probably have to experiment to see which block you want to run.

When I lifted my truck I took the brake bits to a shop that does brake lines and had one made in about 10 minutes. They can make stainless or rubber and it's not that expensive.

Good luck.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Okay, so, yes, you have the revised, longer spline pinion, if it was the factory axle. An f250 will have 2" blocks. You should only use your 4" blocks and shim. Or cut and reweld the perches to negate the need for a shim.

You can just remove the driveshaft flange from your shaft, get a conversion joint, and bolt it in. Should be a 1350 or 1410. Cant remember.

No clue on the brake line.

While the axle is out, drill and tap for drain and fill plugs in the diff cover. Filling through the axle tubes is a pain.

Are you still 5 lug up front?
 

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Okay, so, yes, you have the revised, longer spline pinion, if it was the factory axle. An f250 will have 2" blocks. You should only use your 4" blocks and shim. Or cut and reweld the perches to negate the need for a shim.

You can just remove the driveshaft flange from your shaft, get a conversion joint, and bolt it in. Should be a 1350 or 1410. Cant remember.

No clue on the brake line.

While the axle is out, drill and tap for drain and fill plugs in the diff cover. Filling through the axle tubes is a pain.

Are you still 5 lug up front?

The conversion joint will be the 1350. I like the idea for the fill plugs. I did a 10.25 swap out of an 89 F250 in my 83 Bronco years ago, I used my existing lift parts and the angle shim, had to shorten the driveshaft 2" IIRC and install the conversion joint. The extended stainless brake line I had on the bronco already was the correct thread size/pitch, so chances are your brake line will be the same. I'd pull the flange off the rear of the driveshaft and test fit the shaft in the truck before you start swapping u joints. If the slip isn't in the same spot as it was before the axle swap, i'd contact your local driveline shop and ask them how they want you to measure for the length modification. You'll definitely want your driveshaft to be the correct length, bad things happen when they're too long or short. Good luck with the swap!
 

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All of my parts for the rear lift were aftermarket. As for the driveshaft I dealt with a slight vibration in the rear for about 3 years. Had the driveshaft rebuilt 3 times. Finally I broke down and spent the money on a new, high angle driveshaft from Oliver's DriveShaft. Can't remember the size joints I went with. I think the whole thing was 1350. Best $500 I spent.
 
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