York OBA on a 96 FSB

Well I've been on FSB for a while now and felt like I should contribute something usefull for others. I know there are other write ups for OBA and I think I looked through all of them. I felt mine was a little unique as it went on a 96 with mass air. Plus I also switched to a saginaw power steering pump as well. I knew I wanted to keep the stock air box and be able to get the cap off the power steering pump also.

First I ordered my Bronco air OBA kit. It is a very nice kit and well though out. It takes care of the hardest part of the project, the powersteering pump pulley and the bracket.


Next I went to the junk yard to source my York pump and saginaw power steering pump and bracket. I found a York model 210 in a 77' mercedes. I disconected the lines and made sure it pumped. Then I pulled it and tested the clutch in the parking lot by hooking it up to the battery on my truck.




I got the saginaw pump, bracket, and high pressure hose out of an 89 e-150 van with a 351.


This is a pretty straight forward swap and well worth the effort. Since this is an OBA write up I am just gonna skim through this, plus there are plenty of write ups on this already. This is a picture of the stock pump and bracket.


Old pump and bracket out.


New pump and bracket installed.




I temporarily installed the stock power steering pulley because I had to get the bronco air pulley bored out. The shaft on the sag pump is bigger than the stock pump. I took the pulley to a local machine shop and they took care of that. They bored out the entire middle of the pulley and started over. They offset the hub so that I would not have to space the pump with washers as so many have had to do in the past to get the serpentine belt to line up. They also bored out the back of the pulley so that it could be pressed on farther and not hit the snout of the pump.




Now I was ready to do the install. First thing was to take the bolts out of the stock A/C compressor. Bronco Air sends four 1/2" spacers and longer bolts. The spacers go between the bracket and the stock A/C compressor. Since I wanted to be able to take the powersteering pump cap off I had to use two 1/2" spacers on the two top bolts and two 1" spacers on the bottom bolts. I also had to buy two bolts that were 1/2" longer for the bottom. This tilted the bracket enough to allow the cap to be taken off. Stay tuned as this will cause problems further down the line.






Once the bracket was installed and tightened back down I set the pump in. Tilting the bracket brought the pump closer to the ABS motor. I had to slide the pump all the way up on the bracket to avoid contact between the belt and ABS motor. So I had to get a longer belt due to the spacers and needing the pump all the way up on the bracket. I ended up with a 37 1/2" belt.




Here you can see how close the belt is to the ABS motor. There's about a 1/4" between the two and they haven't shown any signs of contact yet.


Now that the pump was in and tightend down I had to get the stock air intake and box to work. I had to space the air box up 2 1/4" to clear the York compressor. I used nylon spacers and longer bolts to achieve this. I also flipped the intake hose upside down so that the curve of the hose lined up better.




Air box reinstalled with spacers.


With the intake hose reinstalled.


Spacing the box up caused clearance issues between the Mass air meter and the hood. I use a roto zip and cut off wheel to clearance the hood. Here you can see the offending area.


After cutting.


Now that everthing fit and I was able to close the hood again, life was good. Now all that was left to do was the plumbing and get power to the York. To make life a little easier I bought most of my air accessories from kilby enterprises. This picture shows the manifold, pressure gauge, safety pop off valve, and pressure switch.


This is my coalescing (sp?) filter and check valve.


This is the oil drain back kit.


I chose to mount the manifold to the top of the fuse box on the driver side fender well. I left enough slack on the hoses to be able to still open the fuse box.


Another of the manifold. You can also see the Intake filter and behind that the coalescing filter.


I ran the outlet from the manifold to the front of the truck. In the future I will probably add a air tank or turn my rear bumper into an air tank. For now thought there is no air tank. The unit still puts out plenty of pressure and will be fine for filling tires.


This is the picture of the arming switch. I also mounted a warning light which can be seen to the top left of the trans temp gauge. It blinks when the system is on so I wont forget to turn it off. I got power from a vacant spot in the fuse box under the dash. The system operates off of a 5 amp fuse.



That is bassically it. If I add to or modify the system at all I will be sure to update with new information. Thanks for listening and I hope this was a help to some.