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Part Two:

By the time I got to the camper, I'd already been there for about an hour, and didn't really feel like trying to get the York.

On my tour yesterday, I saw a bronco transmission/transfer case in the engine pile. I figured I'd get the flange output in case I ever wanted to convert the F150 into a Bronco one. I also pulled the case apart to get the entire output shaft that goes with it, but didn't have any snap ring pliers to get it off. So I stashed it all, plus the one half of the driveshaft in an old van (hopefully to separate and get later).

Then I spent about 30 minutes standing around while some random guy talked my ear off about all the old ford trucks nearby, and how any of them would be nice to have, even though he's a chevy guy.

On the way out, I spotted some broken transfer case that I couldn't immediately recognize that had a double cardan joint on the front driveshaft. Since it was broken, I couldn't keep the shaft from spinning to get the yolk unbolted, so I took the whole thing to the front. $10. Not bad considering I don't know what its out of or if it will work on my transfer case.
 

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Not sure if you're aware, but those Onan generators are built by Cummins. They are about the best generators you can get. I would ask them what they want for it, before touching it. I'd gladly pay 200 bucks to pull that puppy if it works.

Double cardon front driveshafts usually only come on solid front axle trucks. Was it an iron case or non-ferrous?
 

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Looks to be an Onan 3.0RV Genset, which from my little research, is a great little unit and rebuildable.
 

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Well, after a few hits with the old impact, I got the yoke off the jeep transfer case. Since I also pulled a rear flange off a 95 bronco, I compared the two. The splines on the jeep front output are larger than the bronco rear, meaning I probably won't be able to use it on my bronco transfer case. I read somewhere earlier that you could use a bronco rear flange on the front to get a double cardan on the front.

if your swapping to one you have 3 options. you can find the rare front output yoke from a F350 transfer case that had them, then you can use a 1350 driveshaft for best strength. or you can find a rear output yoke from a 87-89 Bronco and swap it on the front, it will use a 1330 driveshaft which is good still. last option is finding a rear output flange from a 90-96 bronco and swap it on but the splines will have abit of slop when swapped on the front because they are very slightly different. this was the method i choose and haven't had any issues yet and im using a 1350 driveshaft but can also use 1330 if you want to be cheaper
 

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They don't need pressure to blow, just volume.
I used one of those rubber cone tipped blow guns from my compressed air tank and shot a few bursts through those horns. Nice and loud, but I'm not sure if both or only one is working. Sounds like one of those emergency boat horns that comes with its own canned air supply.
 

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You'll have to find the model number to be sure, but it might be only 120v. Seems to be a 3000w generator. Not sure if you could convert to 220/240v. Appears to be a number of YouTube videos about em.
Even if its only 120v, its still a generator with a fuel supply that doesn't go bad over time. It will still run my freezer, just not my well pump.
 

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House of Windsor 4ever!
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Oh, yeah, that ugly SOB. I call those RVs the "Speculum." You can get one of those air movers for the horns off Amazon, a complete install kit. If the hose is Y'd before their attachment to the horns, you can pull the Y off, and attach the long hose to each one, test them separately. Even with one's breath pressure, they are loud!
 

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Junkyard fine for anyone in Maryland Chesapeake Bay Area. My brother-in-law sent me these pictures see if there's anything I wanted and I thought I'd share. If anyone's interested I can ask him the exact location I think it's the junkyard in Harve De Grace Maryland. I'm hoping he can go back pull the seats look to see if there's a steering wheel and the emblems and that rear deflector but the front fenders look good for anyone needs front fenders.


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@BroncMom needs those window switch bezels...



I had forgotten about potentially the BIGGEST find of my last trip. It was raining, so I had my phone packed away.

It was a 78-91 style of center console, with FACTORY DEEP cup holders. They were molded in, just like normal, but about 2" deep! It was in an 80s supercab pickup. I've got a tuffy so I didnt need it. And I cant be hoarding too many parts at the moment... nowhere to put em. I still have that D60 in the back of my van.
 

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And I cant be hoarding too many parts at the moment... nowhere to put em. I still have that D60 in the back of my van.
I know exactly what you mean. I have so many parts for projects that I really want to, but may never, happen. Then the problem becomes, they're so large that you can only hope to sell them locally due to shipping. I just hate the idea of desirable parts being lost forever.

My wife is constantly on me about getting rid of my 'crap' in the garage.

I can't even work on my Comet because I have a D60, a Sterling, and a D44 solid and some TTB beams sitting behind it. I'm gridlocked in my own garage.
 

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Who the Heck was driving that Bronco? Johnny Blaze?

I think it also has power locks, grab those, and the metal interior door handles, much better than the '87-and-up plastic ones.
 

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Pull those window switches! Someone’s sure to want those!!


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Who the Heck was driving that Bronco? Johnny Blaze?

I think it also has power locks, grab those, and the metal interior door handles, much better than the '87-and-up plastic ones.
As I said, @BroncMom needs those switch bezels! Lol

Johnny Blaze, as in Ghostrider? Or Method Man?

Theres a 92+ 4.9L/7.5L air inlet snorkel in one pic lol...
 

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So recently I’ve been looking to swap from my factory 3:08’s to 3:55’s to help my old 300 turn my 33’s a little easier. So cruising around carpart.com I see a 94 F150 at a yard here in town (the kind that won’t let you wander around). As I’m scrolling through the pictures and notice the axle code on the door tag is “H92” designating 3:55’s with front and rear LSD’s. I immediately called them and asked if the axles were still under it and they said the rear is gone but we still have the front. I told them to pull it and I’d be by today to pick it up.

I got there and figured out that when they pulled it, they didn’t want to do much disassembly. So I’m now the proud owner of the front 1/4 of an F150 frame :toothless
 

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Nice score! That's like a 1 in 50,000 option (no actual clue)

Now if it was a 4.10... itd be like finding a unicorn!
 

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Nice score! That's like a 1 in 50,000 option (no actual clue)

Now if it was a 4.10... itd be like finding a unicorn!
I originally wanted to hold out and find a set of 4.10's, but having the torque of the 300 and being on pavement 90% of the time means 3.55's will do just fine. Now I just need to grab a rear axle to match and i'll be set (thankfully a truck with an H9 axle code is pretty common) :thumbup

EDIT: Forgot to mention that whole frame/axle section only cost me 200$!
 

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I originally wanted to hold out and find a set of 4.10's, but having the torque of the 300 and being on pavement 90% of the time means 3.55's will do just fine. Now I just need to grab a rear axle to match and i'll be set (thankfully a truck with an H9 axle code is pretty common) :thumbup

EDIT: Forgot to mention that whole frame/axle section only cost me 200$!
that has a lot of extra usable parts that you could sell or hoard, too.
 
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