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DIY: E4OD Torque Converter Manual Lockup

81K views 79 replies 31 participants last post by  Teal94  
#1 ·
This has come up from time to time and since my info. on it is buried in my gauge install thread I thought it might be best to post the info here in its own thread. :D

So the idea behind this is to install a switch that can manually override the unlocking of the torque converter. As y'all likely know, with the E4OD, if you just lift your foot off the throttle the converter unlocks. When you touch the throttle again the revs pick up while the converter locks up and the revs come back down. Don't believe me? Try it. ;)

Of course, this is a nuisance and generates torque converter heat. I don't know about y'all, but I want to keep my E4OD alive for as long as possible! So a buddy of mine told me a trick. Bill at http://www.dfuser.com/ told me that if I tap a wire leading to the tranny and ground it through a switch that I can manually lock the converter. Intrigued, I decided to research it more and went for it.

It's painfully simple for something that might otherwise seem rather daunting.

1. Locate a large wire bundle under the truck next to the transmission. Look for a purple/yellow wire. On my '96 there was only one and I only found it after cleaning off the wires. They were dirty. ;)

2. Tap into that wire and run the wire up to your dash area or wherever you want to install a switch to control the converter. I mounted mine on the dash like such....

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3. Mount the wire to the switch and ground the other tab on the switch so that when you flip the switch it will ground that wire. The grounding of the purple/yellow wire is what locks the converter.

That's it!

Now my buddy, Bill, sells a really cool switch. It's a three position toggle switch. When I flip the toggle down, it locks the converter. So even lifting off the gas or hitting the brake, the converter stays locked. It's great on the highway when you're in traffic, but never going very slowly.

When I flip the toggle up, it also locks the converter, but you have to hold the toggle up or it will return to center/off. It's called a momentary switch. Anyway, Bill sells them and they're cheap! Comes in handy if you're going to go up a big hill or something and want the converter locked for just a brief period of time.

The only thing to watch for is if you forget to unlock the converter and you go slow enough, you may trip your check engine light. I did it once when I forgot and slowed down to 10-15 mph!! WAY too slow. Keep in mind normally my converter won't lock until 27-28 mph. I got Advance Auto to clear it for me and all's well. Sometimes the CEL will just go off after a day or two, but it doesn't harm anything as far as I know. I only had it reset once. The two other times I did it, the light eventually just went off. I've also had the O/D light flash on the stalk a couple times, but it's not too common.

Bill's been doing this trick for his customers for years. It's super handy, informative, and will help me preserve my tranny.

I got a little fancy with my gauge install. I wired a green LED next to my tranny temp gauge. The toggle switch will also provide a ground for the LED and so it illuminates whenever the converter is locked....so I don't forget too often to unlock it as I slow down. :D

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Tommy

And here's the gauge install thread for those interested.
 
#2 ·
Oh, I should also point out that this worked on my '96. I have no idea if this works for other model years or other trannies. And standard disclaimers apply. Do all this at your own risk and if your stuff blows up, don't blame me!! ;)
 
#5 ·
Ian, that's what I meant. Maybe my wording wasn't clear. :) No idea how to keep the converter from locking, though.

Oh, BTW Ian, let me know if you're still interested in that manifold I made. I can bring it to the MnG next weekend.

Tommy
 
#6 ·
Nice write up Tommy, guess I don't understand the function of the lockup torque converter enough to appreciate this mod. I assume when its locked up it becomes solid with no slippage so it would be more like a clutch setup. (Solid with no slippage between the engine and trans) If that’s the case than I can understand the heat reduction and would think there would be some gas mileage improvement over a regular non-locking torque converter.

Ok guess I do see how this mod would be beneficial after all.
 
#10 ·
Correct, when you hit the set point on your EEC, it's locked. On my truck it happens right at about 34mph. It'd be nice to lock it at about 25mph when I'm cruising through my city I'm a firefighter in, since the speed limit is only 25.
 
#7 ·
what if instead of taping into it you cut the wire, ran speaker wire up to a 3 position switch, having one position be locked, the other being unlocked, and the other have the computer controll it?

locked would be having the wire grounded, unlocked would just break the path in the wire, and computer controlling would just be to connect the switch back to its factory path. Not sure if this would throw a CEL tho :scratchhe
 
#8 ·
Great write up Tommy, someone probably already asked, but where did you get your guage pod from. (The panel holding the guages) Im on the boat with Bossind, dont really no the benefits of the MOD, so I wouldnt no what it could do. Thanks man
 
#9 ·
autometer sells them...ill eb doing this soon... btw im still trying to figure out if the 92-96 a pillars are the same...autometer only makes the 3 pod for the 92-96...i have a 91:doh

dc
 
#11 ·
Only have a minute (heading to work), but Bill at DFUser.com sells the pods (painted to match, no less!), the gauges, and the nifty 3 position switch that I couldn't find locally. I got all my stuff through him. If you call, be sure to throw my name around. You might get a better deal. :D

Oh, and Steve, you pretty much nailed the benefits of the manual locking of the converter. Essentially it's for tranny longevity....which is something everyone here's concerned about!

Tommy
 
#13 ·
It'll work on ANY E4OD transmission. All of them use a TCC line to lock the converter clutch.

[HIJACK]
I'll be using a scheme to only lock the converter under the following conditions:
1. 4th gear (OD) is engaged, so obviously highway speed > 40mph
2. A slight delay after OD is engaged
3. TCC lockup in 3rd if a certain time period has passed (or maybe temperature exceeded)
4. Manual engagement/disengagement is always possible

This will all be done with switches, sensors, relays, a 555 timer, and/or a microcontroller if I'm feeling nerdy.
[/HIJACK]
 
#16 ·
wow, that would be cool to push start a bronco. It would have to be in Neutral when parked to make it easier to push but I also think that part of the lock-up mechanism works off of adding line pressure in which case youd have to have your tranny spinning in order to have pressure.
 
#17 ·
It wouldn't work. You still need hydraulic pressure from the front pump to enable engagement of the transmission's clutch packs. Otherwise it's free-wheeling internally. Good thought, though.
 
#18 ·
This sounds good but I can't figure out how it helps us. You mentioned it makes the tranny run cooler and I had to wiki that to figure that out but even they couldn't explain to me how locking the converter helps. I mean to ask..

1. Under what conditions would I want to lock and then when would I unlock the converter?
2. Will this allow me to use the engine as a brake to slow down like when driving a manual?
3. Does it improve or reduce fuel economy (not really concerned there)?
 
#19 ·
At speeds lower then ~35mph, the TC is unlocked. When it's unlocked, the transfer of power is through the fluid. When it's locked, it's not. When you're compressing the fluid to push it through the fins in the TC, it's generating a lot of heat.

So basically, if you're cruising around town at about 30mph, and the TC never locks, it's going to make some heat, or if you're in something soft like sand, it's gonna make even more.

The conditions in which you'd want to lock and unlock tend to vary depending on the situation and terrain. But as long as you understand what the TC does, and when it makes heat, you should be able to figure it out.

Yeah, it can help you. I do downshift with my trans, and as far as I've seen in third, and second, it does stay locked, but when I go to first, it's unlocked.

I guess it can improve economy like if you're driving around town slow for a long period of time, but I don't really know, it's hard to say.
 
#21 ·
It's all the same fluid.

I'd like to do it because the T/C locks at the worst time and in my town, most of the speeds are 35-40 mph so it's always locking and unlocking, locking and unlocking. When it locks and i'm just barely going faster than when it locks, the engine has a hard time and grumbles (running 32" tires) and so then I have to speed up or slowdown. Pain in the ass.
 
#22 ·
ok now this is just a thought and i am not sure if it would work or not any suggestions would be great.......our speedometers are electronic controlled on an e40d also correct? so is there a way to wire to the speedo that it would auto lock and unlock at say 25mph??? this was just a thought but would greatly help if it would cuz then ya wouldnt have to remember to shut it off specially with idiots in hondas running round lol
 
#23 ·
There's no way to "wire" it up. You'd have to build a logic circuit that takes the output of the speedo, and when it reaches the output tick of whatever value you want it at, the logic circuit would trigger a relay that would enable the TC lock.

I remember Sig saying he was working up some silly circuit with a timer, which IMO is retarded, because having switches that you have to control manually is for cool people. :twak :goodfinge
 
#24 ·
Uh huh, and I was going to use one of these little 555 timer guys:

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and use something to modify the amount of time (or speed/gear) it waits to implement lockup.

But yes, I'm not cool enough for manual control of switches. That shit's just outta my league.
 
#26 ·
No, you won't damage the transmission. If you come to a stop with it locked, you'll stall out. Yes, you'll get rougher/firmer shifts. I'm not exactly sure, but when I mash on the pedal with the shifter in first, and when it gets to ~5200rpm, and slap it into second, I believe the TC is locked when it's doing it, and I end up with a good solid shift from first to second. Almost like it has a shift kit in it.
 
#28 ·
the TC lockup is not designed to take that much torque. It is there for economy. It locks up only while crusing on the highway in overdrive at low throttle positions. the reason for that is to eliminate the slip and therefore the parasidic loss of the converter.
 
#31 ·
That's right. If your getting on the throttle, It doesn't lock up until you start letting off. It all depends on the circumstances of what your doing when the T/C would normally lock up. I guess that means you wouldn't do damage if you left it unlocked
(maybe).
Both incorrect. Maybe on an AOD driven by a TV cable, but not an E4OD.

Actually, not quite. The converter can and does lock outside of O/D and it can take fairly high throttle positions....like full throttle. My converter would stay locked at WOT shifts if the converter engaged prior to the upshift. Now granted, normally increasing throttle position substantially will cause an unlock and potentially a downshift, but it'll lock back up before you let out of it.

Tommy
:stupid

In second gear, if I'm accelerating and gradually pushing the throttle in it will be unlocked and I'll get as far as WOT and see the rpm's drop 2-300 rpm and feel it lock up.

Try this also... In second, get it up around 3 grand at WOT, and then real quick, let off the gas just a hair, and mash it back down quick. You'll see the TC unlock for a second or two, and then lock back up by the time it hits 3500-4000.

well im stumped..i tried this and it didnt work?....what does that mean?...bad torque convertor? i tried bypassing the switch i put in and is see a small arc that would tell me i am grounding it but nothing happens? thanks
Um, well, under normal operation, are you getting a TCC lockup error code?
 
#29 ·
Actually, not quite. The converter can and does lock outside of O/D and it can take fairly high throttle positions....like full throttle. My converter would stay locked at WOT shifts if the converter engaged prior to the upshift. Now granted, normally increasing throttle position substantially will cause an unlock and potentially a downshift, but it'll lock back up before you let out of it.

Tommy
 
#30 · (Edited)
That's right. If your getting on the throttle, It doesn't lock up until you start letting off. It all depends on the circumstances of what your doing when the T/C would normally lock up. I guess that means you wouldn't do damage if you left it unlocked (maybe).
 
#32 ·
interesting I can only compare to my 01 expedidition and a few other cars I have driven in the past. They all locked up only for crusing on the highway and would drop the lock on the first sign of power applied. I would love to tap the line to an led and actually watch the signal while driving. That is the only way to tell what it is actually doing. could be done on the same wire you have the switch on.
 
#33 ·
The newer EEC-V's (4R100/4R70w) have different programming, and yes, like you said, they do that. Though they are still electro-hydraulically applied lockup converters, versus the AOD's, which are controlled by a shaft that physically locks the torque converter to the overdrive gear.
 
#34 ·
Some of the later PCMs use PWM (pulse width modulation) for torque converter lockup control IIRC, so be aware of that when proceeding to monitor the signal!!!

BTW Bronco4Life, I'm leaning away from using a timer and instead implementing a good ol' Allen-Bradley/Rockwell PLC for modifying the converter lockup timing & conditions. We've got a few just taking up space at work anyway, and the ladder programming is so easy a freshman could do it. :toothless
 
#35 ·
We've got a few just taking up space at work anyway, and the ladder programming is so easy a freshman could do it. :toothless
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If ya ever get around to building it, post up and let us know how it works out... I might be interested in such a setup.