Window Motor Repair - steel ball method

Happster · Feb 7, 2017

BikerPepe` said:
The pucks aren't rubber... they're plastic. They can't "slip", they'll compress or crack and break.
The plastic teeth on the gear that houses the bearings or pucks would still break before the motors internals would be damaged.

But thanks for logging in to leave your first post criticizing others methods with mis-information. Welcome to FSB.

:rofl:

I am sure it has been asked and responded to many times, but this fixes a weak window motor, not just one that no longer works at all? Mine needs help to get the window up and down, but it still works. my rear key bumpers don't work either. makes it difficult to get the window up and down on my own. I thought I saw a post long ago made by fireguy or someone that talked about how there wasn't enough juice getting to that rear motor and that was part of the problem. maybe I am mis-remembering.

BikerPepe` · Feb 8, 2017

No... you're on target, mostly.

The power to the motor is a long way from the source to the rear window. Add some aftermarket power sucking items and degradation of wiring over time and viola, weak ass window motor. Adding a relay into the harness, behind the tail-light can work wonders to refresh the available power supply. I still need to do that one myself.

Replacing the bearings is another issue altogether but failing bearings can mock the behavior before total failure, as can clogged or gunked up window tracks, rusted scissor gears, etc.

Best plan is to tackle both or all solutions while you're in there dealing with it. All these items degrade over time and the tailgate takes a lot of moisture and abuse over the years. It's also a good idea to replace the "water jacket" paper, as it degrades over time and when removed can allow water to leak into the back end, rotting out the rear of the cab area or in extreme cases, leaking along the entire seam from the rear gate to the doors

Hell... one of the biggest reasons our Bronco's are so well known for rotting tailgate bottoms is just because the drains get clogged up with leaves, pine needles, mud, gunk, etc. over the years and people don't go in and clean it all up every couple years.

We've got at least a few write-ups on each of these problems. :thumbup

/hijack :toothless

schwim · Feb 8, 2017

Failing pucks usually result in a motor that locks up when being run. That being said, cleaning and greasing the gearbox internals in combination with replacing the pucks usually make the motor operate like new again. The old grease usually begins to act like a glue, binding up the works.

The incredibly long path that the circuit must travel causes a noticable voltage drop as well, which compounds the issue. With the engine off, I measured 11.9 on the circuit operated by the dash switch and 11.4 on the one operated by the tailgate switch. Altering the system to use relays for a more direct path is a common upgrade for our rear windows.

glassdave · Feb 8, 2017

I have done this repair literally dozens of times on various broncos over the years and it works great. I have always just dropped in a 1/4 -20 nyloc nut instead of a ball though. it's readily available and the flats fit perfect in the cavity also the extra height of the nyloc makes it center well. great thread on a great fix to one of the most common probs we run across.

Happster · Feb 8, 2017

sorry for the hijack. excellent write up. just in case this gets searched and people are led here for the wiring stuff as well, I found the fireguy thread. Thanks Baba Looey for coming through as usual. http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...m/23-technical-write-ups/7937-re-wire-your-tailgate-window-switch-finished.html

Hendry Hill · Mar 22, 2017

I did this years ago with machine nuts and it worked well and was free since I had the nuts at home.

offroadgearhead · Apr 7, 2017

1/4 20 nuts work just fine. I have made this fix to many ford motors over the years.

amfmtxca · Apr 9, 2017

When you are done replacing with the 11mm ball bearings are you riviting the motor back into the door or bolt it?

BikerPepe` · Apr 9, 2017

bolt. why would you be riveting it back together when you have to unbolt it, to take it out?

Jaxson_Dobbs · Jun 24, 2017

Looks like this repair is something I'm going to have to tackle at some point... I'n the mean time is there a way to manually crank up the rear window without power?

Sent from my RCT6303W87DK using Tapatalk

BikerPepe` · Jun 24, 2017

nope. you can take the interior rear panel off the tailgate, reach in and push the window up but you'll have to wedge it in place with a 2x2 or something similar, or it could just come back down, if it's free moving at all. That depends on the condition of the scissors, the tracks and the motor itself.

Jaxson_Dobbs · Jun 24, 2017

Gracias Pepe!

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nekkidhillbilly · Jul 19, 2017

did the nuts works great

Tedybear · Jul 20, 2017

Looking into this for our passenger door window.

It still goes up and down okay. But when it hits the stops it goes "CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK" Kinda like something internal is weak and just about ready to fail. The clunking and bumping sound is rhythmic...not random. Even money bet the plastics are just about shot.

S-

nekkidhillbilly · Jul 20, 2017

Mine would clunk but not move. my rear window does need done is it the same fix for them?

BikerPepe` · Jul 20, 2017

same motor.

nekkidhillbilly · Jul 23, 2017

ok its hot or id pulled it out this weekend

Hillbilly Heaven · Jul 23, 2017

Hotter than a 4 ball tomcat out there!!! I would just roll them down and leave them till end of summer. Can't catch a break with this kind of heat.

nekkidhillbilly · Jul 23, 2017

cant get back one down lol

nekkidhillbilly · Jul 23, 2017

don't have ac hooked up either

Window Motor Repair - steel ball method

Happster

BikerPepe`

schwim

glassdave

Happster

Hendry Hill

offroadgearhead

amfmtxca

BikerPepe`

Jaxson_Dobbs

BikerPepe`

Jaxson_Dobbs

nekkidhillbilly

Tedybear

nekkidhillbilly

BikerPepe`

nekkidhillbilly

Hillbilly Heaven

nekkidhillbilly

nekkidhillbilly

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