Pull codes. There is a specific one for slipping clutches/gears (I think it comes up as an improper ratio or something... :scratchhe ). Anyhow, if anything electrically is wrong, or if the PCM sees that there's a speed ratio between the engine and ring gear that shouldn't be occurring, it will record it. Even if the check engine light isn't on, it still stores a code.

 

ill check that out tomorrow, its my day off, figures right? the one day i have off during the week to get shit done this things craps out on me lol.

I got an update, i just went to the gym and i was driving there with the overdrive off and the shifter in D, i come to a traffic light and im sitting waiting. the idle out of nowhere jumps up a few hundred rpm almost like cold start, and when i go to take off from the light i get no up shift from first. so i pull the shifter down to "2" and it goes rather hard into second, same into D.

On my way home same thing happened and i didn't touch the shifter, at 3Krpm almost on the dot it bangs into second from first, third shifted pretty normal just a little higher RPM.

When i turned down my road it seemed to start slipping but i think what it did was down shift back into first (slow turn) and since i was moving rather quickly for first gear it just seemed to be slipping when really it was the motor catching up to the speed of the tranny, as i revved it up to about 2500-3000rpm it was moving the truck as if i was in first holding it out.

Im starting to think it might be some kind of electrical problem or something. it seems strange im having all these problems out of nowhere. yesterday the truck drove flawlessly. even this morning on my 40 mile ride to work, witch is alot of stop and go for traffic lights.

 

The band in the E4OD only controls manual 2nd.
You can check piston engagement with air pressure. I've got a diagram I'll try and get it scanned.

Does it shift out of overdrive and back down to 3rd?

 

you mean if im driving in overdrive and push the button to turn off overdrive? or if im slowing down?

i haven't tried pushing the button while driving, but when i slow down it down shifts on its own.

 

Can you just press the throttle down and get it to go back into third?

 

Take it to a good shop. I had a similar problem 5 e40d's ago and it was a bad wire connection.

 

will try today to make it downshift to third, also will check connections and check for codes, Thanks guys.

 

ok checked codes and got this as a series.

1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 3, 3, 4, 9, 6, 2, 6, 7, 8, 5. witch led me to believe i have no current codes, but in code memory i have codes 33, 49, 62, 67, and 85.

2 of them are for emissions witch i don't really care about, and the others are as follows.

49, E4od 1-2 shift error
62, Converter clutch error (E4OD)
67, Neutral safety circuit failure.

so im beginning to think this is some kind of electrical problem. I just had the truck out to go around the block and i didn't have any problems, drove fine. i tried to make it down shift into third from overdrive by pressing the throttle and it wont unless i floor it and hold it for a couple seconds.

what you guys think? any common electrical issues with the harnesses or connectors?

 

The MLPS connector will cause weird problems if it gets water inside it.

 

:stupid

Pretty much anything MLPS can cause those symptoms. Might want to look into replacing the MLPS with a newer one that comes with the new style plug, and repinning it.

 

MLPS, unsure what that is.

I looked better at the wiring and i found a part of the harness that runs from under the body up following the firewall next to the wheel well, has some pretty good abrasion on the outer sheath/wire loom but when i pulled it off to see the wires they all looked fine. any wiring diagrams of the tranny harness so i could narrow it down to what color wires could be possibly corroded/worn/defective?

EDIT: manual lever position sensor, the gear selection sensor hasnt been touched and hasnt rained before or after problem started but im going to check it out, ill take teh connecter off and check it for corrosion.

 

I was having some similar shifting issues. I was dealing with it for about two days till my alternator went out. I replaced the alt. and havent had any problems until about two days ago....

 

is there a difference internally?

im starting to think its the NSS also because when its acting up the idle is very low in drive, but if i move the gear selector to "2" the idle comes back up to where it should. tells me the computer doesn't see the truck in D (maybe because of bad contacts in the neutral safety switch) so it doesn't increase the idle speed to compensate for the trans being in gear.

 

There is no neutral safety switch, nor is there a reverse light switch. It's all integrated into the MLPS. :thumbup

 

where can i get one of these for relatively cheap? dealer item will prolly be way too much money.

 

I think I got mine from a Ford dealer for around 50 bucks.

Check ford-parts.com.

 

really?@?! shit im callin tomarro, if i can get a factory part from the deal for 50 bucks ill do that.

http://www.trademotion.com/partloca...9&subgroupid=20137&componentid=61130&make=10&model=Bronco&year=1990&catalogid=1

Guess it is aa neutral safety switch after all

 

It's not a neutral saftey switch, it's a MLPS. :thumbup

Covers all the functions of netrual check, gear selection, and reverse light operation.

Anyone that calls it a NSS on the E4OD has it named wrong.

EDIT: That part in your link is the WRONG part. The E4OD wasn't available pre-90, and that application is 84-91. Again, not a NSS.

Just swing by your dealer sometime, and get a price from them... nowadays they're becoming pretty competitive.

 

rockauto.com has them cheap, and the solenoid pack is available on ebay cheap. i solved my issues with the trans. after new mlps, solenoids, and a trans flush.

 

Ok got the new "mlps" neutral safety switch ,whatever, i got it from pep boys, its in a borg-warner box and its the switch/sensor and a connector, it looks like the connector for a pigtail but no wires? This normal?

The plug is different then the factory plug, i guess thats why they supply the matching connector but do i have to take all the wires out of the factory plug and put them into the new one? must be an easier way to replace this.

Number on the box is S9192. http://www.amazon.com/Borg-Warner-S...G/ref=sr_1_261/102-0145458-5991309?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1192851159&sr=1-261

Need to fix this pretty quick please help.

 

Yes. :doh0715:

That's the point... the new connector is the newer better style one. You definitely want to use that one. It's actually pretty simple to repin it, shouldn't take you more then about 15 minutes to do.

The instructions are pretty straightforward, but all you're doing is releasing the little tab on the pins to let them slide out of the connector... just move one wire at a time in the correct positions, and you're set.

 

:stupid Don't let the re-pinning intimidate you. They slide in and out easily once you release the little plastic thing. You'll see what I mean once you're in there.

 

i see, the box contained no instructions thats where the confusion started. im more of an import guy so im not used to this complexity for simple parts.

do i just transfer the pins to the same position in the new connector? is there a diagram of what wire goes where? i searched around and didnt find anything, plus no instructions with the part it would be a guessing game to just go and do it.

If i put them all in the same spot how is the plug normally oriented? there lined up 4x2 on the new conector so theres no shape to go by.

Thanks guys.

 

Same locations on the new connector as the old one. They should have also given you a couple of grommets so you can select the proper one. But yeah, just write it down how they were, and you should be okay.


See, told you to get the one from Ford.

They come with the nice selection of grommets, a really detailed and easy set of instructions, and even the new lock piece for the center of the plug.

 

Changed it out today, the pinning was actually pretty easy. didn't know that ford connectors could be disassembled. After installation my shifting problems are gone, idles up in drive and reverse like it should.

PROBLEM SOLVED, Thanks guys!