If nothing happens at all when you put the key in then try jumping the starter relay with a screwdriver. Usually a dead battery, bad starter relay or bad cable(s).

Edit: what year do you have? If it's 92 or newer then you'll have to jump it at the starter, not the starter relay.

 

I'm with RLKBOB with this one sure sounds like a bad relay...

 

I had something similar happen. Had electrical power (lights, radio, etc.), but wouldn't start. When I turned the key, I'd hear a nice, loud click coming from the solenoid/relay on the passenger fender well. Turned out to be both the solenoid/relay and the starter. I replaced 'em and haven't had a problem since.

 

How do you know the power is okay? Did you check the battery? Whenever your troubleshooting electrical, always start with the source, to ensure there is power there. Just because your radio works, it doesn't necessarily mean you have enough power to turn over a motor.

 

have you checked your nuetral safty switch

 

equin, check your pm

 

We get anywhere on this yet?

 

Turn on the lights and try to crank it.
1. If the lights do not dim, then power is not getting to the starter. Check the cables, check the connections for the battery cables (even at the starter), test the starter relay or replace because they are cheap, and test the neutral safety switch.
2. If the lights do dim, then some power is making it to the starter. Check the cables & clean the connections for the battery cables (even at the starter) and then have the starter bench tested.

 

I ran into the same problem today, has the loud clicking sound. Have not had time to tear into it yet. Also to add on: when the ignition is turned off all the guages go down but my gas gauge reads whatever the current tank capacity is. This is the first time I have noticed this, any ideas?

John

 

Also to add on: when the ignition is turned off all the guages go down but my gas gauge reads whatever the current tank capacity is. This is the first time I have noticed this, any ideas?

John

When my key is turned off, it kinda defaults to a certain point every time. I think it's just where the gauge has a 'soft' spot.

 

as listed above----bad conections or bad battery/soninoid aor starter. first and esayest to check is the connections. pull them and clean them retry. use a volt meter and see what the battery is at. junp the sonoid and see what happens and then if nothing replace battery and or solnoid....mike

 

I guess She got her answer....

BUT, I'm going to hijack this thread.

'89 XLT 5.8 C6. similar situation to above:

Brother want to take it somewhere, no crank. Took my OTHER Bronco. I went to leave and had to walk all the way down to the back yard then realize its gone and I have the wrong keys. Get the Right keys, starts right up. Go to Work. Try to leave work. Nothing. Called my brother, towed it home (Bronco towing Bronco, shoulda took a pic...)
and here is where I am.

Turn key to crank and Nothing. Lights dim, everything electric turns off. Fuel pump primes in RUN position, have electric power.
Got a brand new battery (old one was working great, but was leaking battery acid, so I got a new one under the Pro-Rated Warranty)
cables were not corroded, cleaned and tested with multi-meter. Good.
Thought starter died. Replaced (under warranty as well).
Checked solenoid. It starts fine when jumping solenoid with remote starter! (with key in RUN position)
Thought it was a ignition switch. Replaced with a good one. No Go.
Tried to start in PARK and NEUTRAL and all other gears. No Go.
So, When I try to crank it, I'm assuming that no power is getting to the small terminal on top of the solenoid.

No crank, no nothing...

So... Steve 83 got a wiring diagram to go gremlin hunting?
Anyone got any other suggestions?

 

I had the same problem in my 88. It was the solenoid. Had to replace it. After that it was fine. I heard if you keep tring to start the vehicle the solenoid will weld its self open or shut. Cant remember which one

 

Thanks for the input, but No.

I tested my solenoid and it tested good.

I'm getting exactly 0.00 Volts to the small terminal on the top of the solenoid when cranking, or trying to.

My problem is that there is no power is getting to the solenoid.

 

neutral safty switch perhaps??

 

Very possible. I guess I will have to search and find the "How to Test Neutral Safety Switch" thread...

 

think i found rex's problem
"the battery has not been bolted down "
when the batt starts bouncing around you'll loose some of your charge. it might not be the culprit but every bit helps.

 

Had a similar problem in my 88. It would start sometimes first go but other times would try starting so many times the starter solenoid on the fender near the battery would overheat and jam on. The problem turned out to be the ignition switch operated by the key in the column. The key barrel only operates a rod wich runs on top of the column down into the bowels of the dash where the actual ignition switch is. If the ignition switch can work perfectly (as mine does) but if it is not aligned properly, then you get the problem I have. If I turn the key too far then the engine will crank over on the starter but won't start because the power is cut to the main ignition relay, which operates handy things like the coil and eec. To test I disconnected the starter cable at the solenoid on the fender and listened to the relays click. When you turn the key to run, all the lights on the dash should come on and you should hear a click from the relay, located at the back of the wash bottle/radiator overflow, or in the power distribution box if fitted (same place). Turn slowly towards 'start' and you should hear a loud heavy click as the starter solenoid shuts. What you should not hear (as I do) is a softer click as the engine relay turns off. I only thought of checking this after I'd spent about four weekends and $250 replacing bits that were ok.

 

OK,
Just got testing the neutral safety switch. Its good.

Any other suggestions?

 

Hit the starter with a hammer. When they get old the armatures tend to weld themselves to the case. So give it a couple of taps nothing hard just firm, try to start the truck rince repeat a couple of times. If you have someone that will sit in the cab have them turn the key over while you hit the starter. If thsi works, then get a new starter.

 

Update:
Checked Neutral Safety Switch, its good.
Go the idea to check the power to the NS switch, reads 12 volts. On both sides of the switch. according to the diagram, its ok.

Then I get the idea to do a current test on the neutral safety switch wire plug. (to current test it, I took a wire and grounded it) it only gave off very small weak yellow sparks, showing that it was not getting full power.

SO, that tells me that somewhere between the ignition switch and the neutral safety switch, in the miles of wiring harness cover, it has a restriction.

I'm just going to wire in a Push Button start and be done with it.

 

Hey has your ign switch been replaced yet? They were recalled a few years ago but there are a lot of broncos and f series that were never served. That may be the cause of your problem.

 

What would consist of having the Ignition Switch replaced? Would they just put a new one in?

I had a spare one (from another Ford of mine) and it was good, and I swapped them and nothing happened. Swapped back, nothing.

I'm being skeptical that a new one would work.....