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Homemade Toy Hauler build

29K views 32 replies 18 participants last post by  Weber  
#1 ·
After having to bum rides on the trails at RITS I got re-motivated on getting my dozen or so projects done so I could get my junk to a trail to wheel. I've had this "trailer" since early this year, or so I think. It may have even been late last year when I drug it home. It was a project stared and abandoned by someone else. Two 10" c-channel rails 20' long, and the gooseneck already put together. I got the frame, two 6K axles, springs, and 12 10' sticks of 4" channel for 600 bucks. I never did take pics before this weekend, so it starts with the axles hung, crossmembers added, and the new coupler tacked on.

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I rebuilt the axles with new 12x2" Dexter electric brake kits, and new drums, bearings, races, seals blah blah blah. Bought new hangers, u-bolts, spring bushings, equalizers, etc.

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The plan is to make the trailer just long enough for my truck, with a couple of feet to play with weight distribution, and not be excessively long. The truck will be getting shortened in the near future, so I should have plenty of length. I plan on an 18' split bed with 2' of dovetail. You can see the rough idea drawn out here

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Here is the coupler tacked in place. I set it down in the back of my F-150(the 04) to test the placement, and this came out the best. I didn't want to set the tube all the way down, afraid it would create too much leverage to break off, so I set it here and intend on using the 2nd hole down on the coupler. I still have one to go up and 1(maybe 2) to go down further, tho I wouldn't want to extend it any further if avoidable.


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Here's the gussets for the coupler, cut out, then welded in. I plan on going back and making two more passes on all the welds also. Just for peice of mind if nothing else

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Here is the jack and mount being set-up. The mount is some ends cut off the the 4" channel. It fit perfectly inside the jack mounts, so we butted the two peices together, drilled and bolted them down, put some weldes on it, removed, finished welding, and mounted it up with a 2x2 square crossmember up top. I debated on whether or not to use two jacks, but I don't see where I would ever need to un-hook with the trailer loaded, so I think the one jack will be fine. I may end up changing my mind and adding a 2nd jack later, but not now.

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Finally after working all Friday and Saturday on it, I got to hook it to the truck thats gonna ride on it. I pulled it down the road about 1/2 mile at about 40mph just to do it. I don't have a hitch in my truck just yet so a 2 5/16 ball on the trail rig was the best I could do. But even hooked to the bumper of my old truck, I couldn't really tell it was back there, however it was at low speed

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Next weekend I plan on finishing all the welding and gusseting on the coupler and neck. I plan to add two big 3/8s plate gussets on the uprights down to the frame rails, and beefing up the puny existing ones going from the uprights to where the neck extends out. Hopefully I'll get started on the deck as well. More pics will come with progress :thumbup


P.S. Yes right now it looks like I'll be towing it with the F-150. I don't want to, but I'm a little upside down on my lien(more so after my boo-boo today, might post pics of that later) and I'm not willing to go further in debt for a truck that will sit in the yard 80% of the time. My calculations on the trailer weight are coming to 3,000-3,500 pounds, the '91 weighs 5,540lbs now, but I intend on shedding as much weight off of it as possible very soon. The '04 is rated for 8,800 pounds out of the box. By going to 17" wheels, I can boost the "rating" to 9,300, and I plan on upgraded brakes, a programmer, and probably an add-a-leaf or helper spring in the rear, if I'm unable to get into a 3/4 or 1-ton by the time I'm ready to start towing. My biggest concern with the '04 will be the longevity of the transmission. Even though I don't expect to be towing but a half-dozen times a year or so, it still would concern me. It already has 92K on the clock now. Only time and money will tell. :popc1:
 
#3 ·
Nice project. I would plate the top and bottom of the tounge where it comes together at the hitch just for extra insurance. Thats a big stress point.

Something like 1/4" plate 6" deep and cut to fit the angle of the beams.
 
#9 ·
I'm glad you mentioned that. It hasn't even crossed my mind to beef up that area, but I think you're dead on about the stress there. I don't think I have any 1/4" plate, so 3/8s will have to work. :toothless So much for keeping it light
 
#10 ·
I think my deck-frame is gonna have too much spacing for what they are recommending. But I'll probably give them a call and dig a little deeper still. Especially on pricing. Looks like a very good product, especially if it's affordable.
 
#11 ·
Jake that thing is looking great. I can tell you that it's a lot of wieght to have behind a truck. My trailer/Bko combination at RITS was about that and my truck did fine with it. However I do have a 2500 chasis. But motor and trans wise I think we line up about the same. If you do plan at keeping the 04 F-150 look into some airbags. That way you dont have to give up a good ride. I would suggest some good power upgrades for the 04 also. What gears does it have? The biggest problem I had with mine was hills. Some of the bigger hills took a little longer to get up.
 
#12 ·
I haven't thought about air-bags. Thats definetely something to look into. Thanks.

My truck has 3.73s. Not too bad for stock size tires, but that motor trying to pull a load could definitely use a set of 4.10s. I've pulled a couple of 5,000ish lbs loads with it with pretty good results. Always bumper pull, so tounge weight was an issue a few times. But as far as actually pulling the load, it does a fair job. The 5.4 (IMO) is dieing for some low-end torque, but once it gets reved up 3K+, it's plenty stout for an occasional heavy load. As long as you're not expecting to run with the turbo diesels.
 
#13 ·
Sounds like stock for stock our motors are running out about the same. If mine had 4.10's it would have pulled it a ton easier because it would have been in it's power band. Yeah I learned that about keeping up with diesels. Thats what they are designed for tons of torque where it's needed. But I'm not trying to win a race just trying to get me toy to the trails so that I can enjoy a weekend of wheeling. Your headed in the right direction thats for sure.
 
#14 ·
Nice project. I don't know if you noticed my trailer at RITS, but mine is a home made goose neck as well. I didn't build it myself, but it is built right. After towing with a goose I really don't miss my bumper pull much at all. The only thing I don't like about mine is that it's slung on mobile home axles, and those are going to be changed out shortly.
 
#15 ·
Yea I think we talked about that a little bit. I mentioned I had hoped to keep the weight around 2,500. You got a laugh and said yours weighed what? 4,000? I didn't think it looked that heavy, but didn't really look it over either. I didn't realize how quickly the weights of material and parts adds up until I sat down and started figuring last week.

Whoever started this one did a good job, as far as alignments and measurements etc. But there's some booger welds and poor choice of material that need addressed.
 
#17 ·
I got alot done on the trailer today, with the help of Dad most of it. Last weekend was busy and I never got a chance to do any work. But today was a great day for working, about 85 degrees, compared to near triple digits for like 2 weeks solid. Tomorrow is supposed to be the same, so I plan on finishing all the welding and gusseting, and probably getting started on the dovetail, maybe even some ramps. I still haven't decided if I'm going to go with fold-up ramps or just make some that slide into a tray underneath the bed. I like the slide-in style, just to be different, but I'll just have to see what is going to work best.

I got the deck's frame set up and tacked together. I used 11 8ft long 4" c-channels, with 16" spacing, except I had to leave two out, directly over the tires, with one in-between the axles. I don't expect any weight to be riding in the open sections, so I think I'll be alright with the gap. Along the outside edge I used 4" flat bar to tie all the cross-braces together, topped with 2x2 angle for a lip to set the deck boards in. I had some clearance issues with the tires and the flat bar, no biggie, just cut out for what will be fenders. I may get some tubing or solid stock to bend around the shape of the cut-outs and weld in for reinforcement. I don't really know if it would be necessary though??? Any thoughts there?

You'll see on the very front a gap between the first cross-brace and the uprights. I'm planning on butt-welding a short peice of channel there, a bit narrower than the rest of the deck, and angle the front of the deck in. I only have one full stick left and I dont want to cut it up for this, and my trimmed peices are going to be a few inches short of making the full width. There won't be any weight right there at the very front either, so again, I don't think there will be any issues. You'll see what I'm talking about when I post pics of it after its done, I left it out today. I might get around to that tomorrow as well. But I'm done rambling, here are some pics and I hope to have some more progress to post up tomorrow.

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#18 ·
Looks good


You should do something like this over the tire. That way you'll never have to worry about cracking a board.

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Its just a piece of 3/4" x 1.5" cold rolled bridging the gap. Cut a section out of the C-channel for it to drop in there flat.
 
#19 ·
I've gotten a little bit done since last time I updated this thread. I lost some of the pics, but have a few of the deck boards laid down and mocked up. Now I just have to drill 120 holes (I did 6 today but it gets dark early now :banghead ) I have just a touch more welding to do, a few beads I missed while welding out, and I need to add a peice to support the front of the boards in-between the up-rights of the neck. I cut a peice of 2" angle for it today, but it was too late to drag the welder out. Maybe tomorrow? I also have to build ramps, get it painted, find/fab a jack handle, and figure out how to wire up those electric brakes :whiteflag Oh and tie-down points

Pics:

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#20 ·
Looking good!
 
#22 ·
Hopefully I'll have all my ducks and have something to take 'wheelin by early spring. It will probably be the cherokee though, because the F150 has a 2-mile long list of things it needs, and it's at the point where I can't band-aid or baby step it anymore. I'm gonna pretty much have to leave it down until it's all done: axles, C6 & doubler, shorten the WB and the back. Everything but the engine is pretty well shot. Hopefully I can just hack the jeep up, weld the rear spiders, throw some tires on it and then make it last a little while.
 
#23 ·
It's been a while since I updated this, I figured since the trailer is off for blasting & paint now is a good time to post up the finished product, minus paint and lights.


Here is the jack & handle done, finished. I think I shortened the handle after this pic, but you get the point


The handle in its little holder


How I made the tail-light boxes. They should be heavy duty enough to never come off...ever



What I did with the center of the deck was built a little frame with 2" angle and some 4" flat-bar, then filled it with the grating from an oil-change pit. I just cut the tops out of the grates frames and then trimmed them to fit, and welded them all up down the center of the trailer. They're extremely stout for their weight, especially with the frame underneath supporting them.




Safety chains and tie-down points, of course. Notice the tail-light temporarly black taped in place. Couldn't take a chance pulling this thing through town without brake lights and blinkers. They frown on that, even in Alabama




I should get it back late this week painted, then I'll probably carry it to the local RV shop and get the lights and brakes wired up, because honestly I don't have time to do it. I have to get moving with my other projects if I'm gonna make it to RITS with a rig to wheel. Maybe in about 2 weeks I'll have pics of the totally finished trailer.
 
#26 ·
...then I'll probably carry it to the local RV shop and get the lights and brakes wired up,
NO!!!.... its going to come back with those splice connectors that cut through the insulation and just about cut the conductor in half all over the trailer.

Trailers are simple. A first class job can be done in under 2 hours with maybe $100 worth of wiring and everything including the 7 wire bundle for the plug.
 
#28 ·
If I think I'll have the time then I might can do it. I also know another guy who does odd & end jobs like that sometimes, he builds my drive-shafts for me. I have to farm something out tho, or I won't make it to RITS, and I can't really farm out the work I'm doing on the truck. So somethins gotta give.
 
#30 ·
Errr, yea the deck boards are in my shop, and the trailer is in town getting painted right now. I fitted the boards and installed them to keep from warping until it was time for paint.
 
#31 ·
I have to agree about doing the lights and brake wirreing yourself. Consider the time you will spend getting the trailer to and from a shop to do it. You might not save as much time as you think. And as heavy as that trailer is I wouldnt want to take any chances on someone else wirreing the brakes!!! Hell bring it over one Fri or Sat night and we will wire it up and down a few.
 
#32 ·
I've been looking into trailers for a few days now, and would really like to see more of this build. Especially because I'm looking for a reasonably priced gooseneck (impossible to find here) so I may end up having to get one that needs some work.


Any updates?

Maybe ya oughta post this up over at towrigsandtrailers.com :)

-Alex