A wire diagram would be nice.....:scratchhe

Allcruisen :imp :usa

 

yeah, i do wiring for a living...and i can't think right off hand how to do that, unless you run a power wire back from the front....

 

Power already runs to the tailgate, she’s live back there. But the trick is to reversing the polarity and cutting out the front switch cause the front switch will short you out when you reverse. You want every thing to return to factory when the two-way switch is in the neutral position so the rear key and front dash switch still work.

I used to do wring for a living, now I only do special requests. Guess what this is.

 

OOooooo....i like whelen....what all is goin in and whats it goin in?

Actually i install 2-way radios and public safety equipment everyday....thats right up my alley :thumbup

 

A slick!

 

a wiring diagram would be nice. And anything else that might come in handy if I want to do it.

 

i cant see any of those pictures, but i wouldnt mind seeing them.

 

You don't need to eliminate the front switch, if you wire your extra switch into the circuit the same way the outside t/g switch is wired in. And you don't need relays, either. You just have to use a DPDT switch, like the stock ones, or 2 SPDT switches (which is actually what the key switch is).

.

 

Yes your right but I Couldn't find the switch in a micro format or one that would mount nicely and out of the way - not much room for a kick ass switch, plus I didn't want to run live to the switch and make for another failur location, lots of load that the relays can handle better. If my switch fails the orginal dash and key switch still works. :beer

Nice drawings.

 

Why not just use a stock '87-96 dash switch? Why do you think it would be any more likely to fail than a bunch of relays? And why would a power wire to the switch be more prone to fail than one to the relays?

 

Cause its big and harder to mount, I didn't like it so I did it the way I perfer. Many ways to do things when it comes to wiring, neither is wrong. Plus now that I have a ground sided system in place I can easly rig my wireless remote into rolling the rear window up and down - dam I should get on that! Also those OEM Switchs have been known to heatup and fail, there are some post on FSB about it. The relays allow the OEM equipment to work in the closed postion, if relays fail its always in the closed postion or non power postion. The relays only come into action when I hit my little switch, the rest of the time they are just sitting there doing nothing.

So yeah I did it my way and its worked for over 3 years now.

Heres a link to a problem switch http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69975&highlight=dash+window+switch

 

I can vouch for the stock switch burning out - I've had three go over the years.

 

I've seen bad dash switches, too, but for the effort & cost, I'd still use one. I'm not saying your way is wrong; just that the stock-type switch is quicker, easier, & cheaper. And if it does go bad, it's one ~$15 part to swap in a few seconds, as opposed to tracking down which relay it is & digging it out. Plus, you're still using the stock switch in the dash, so it's no LESS reliable to use another.

 

I must agree here with Steve. Yes theres alot of different ways too do this mod but, if you can use a "Factory" switch, why not? My .02

Thanx Steve for the wire diagram. I have to get you pictures of the "Low Fuel light" I keep forgetting :brownbag Plus I have to wait 'till its less then 1/4 tank {Which that hardly happens}...:rockon

Allcruisen :imp :usa

 

...remote control my rear window from my remote starter... Which is where I was going with this install.

Oh, REALLY???

...I sleep in the back of the bronco, but it was a pain to roll up the rear window by reaching over the front seat... Its sure comes in handy after drinking all night and need a quick exit from the bronco to go for a pee.

Is your nose a little longer?


:histerica :lolup

 

Oh, REALLY???

Is your nose a little longer?


:histerica :lolup

So now you’ve resorted to calling people liars, that’s a new low for even you Steve!

Didn’t feel it was necessary at the time I started this thread to give out all my ideas, thoughts and plans cause I may never get around to completing them and it wasn’t necessary for the topic I had started. Than along comes Steve83 with his theories and in his mind better and simpler – but yet they are only theories and are unproven. Have you ever looked at the dash switch with out the dash covering? Its Ugly and bulky! Making for a ******* of an install in the rear panel, it’s unpractical, space is at a premium so its unlikely it’ll fit in the same location, its not water proof (mine is) Don’t know about you but I run with the top off and sometimes I get caught in the rain – did I mention your switch is always hot (live wires)?

Now I’ve digressed and become another Steve with too much opinion
:twak

 

The laughing smilies were SUPPOSED to indicate that I was just messing with you. :shrug

Yes, I've seen 1 or 2 dash switches, and yes, I know how much space there is in the bedwalls. Rain wouldn't affect the stock switch in the location you mounted yours for a few years. Even longer if you took a FEW steps, but I get the impression you don't care. :brownbag

BTW
I'd categorize my "theories" on wiring as well-proven.

 

LOL, ok I still Love you!

 

sorry to bring up an old thread, but do you have any pictures of the rest of the wiring for the switch?

 

No I'm sorry, got a little crazy at work and now I'm running for FOTM. I'll try to find some time and do those up for you.