[lifeizhard102205]

Probably doesn't help that I'm doing this the cheap skate way. motorcycle jack and blocks of wood...ha ha ...
Good luck to you bud

ive discovered..very painfully sometimes...that way doesn't usually work to well. i found a $200 tranny jack on craigslist for $100. the guy still had the instructions for it too. good luck to you. hopefully tomorrow things go better for you. with any luck tomorrow hopefully i'll have the zf resting in the truck.

 

[Swat]

Damn! :doh0715: I didn't think about a change in brackets. I bet you can sell them if you are willing to ship them. Good luck completing it, you are going to love granny!

 

[c-dub]

opc1:

 

[lifeizhard102205]

Damn! :doh0715: I didn't think about a change in brackets. I bet you can sell them if you are willing to ship them. Good luck completing it, you are going to love granny!

thanks. yea, i'll ship the brackets to who ever wants them. i'm just going to love have a tranny i can rely on...granny is a plus!!! i figured out my crawl ratio with the zf....5.72x2.62x4.88=73:1!!! woohoo!! right about where i wanted to be.

 

[lifeizhard102205]

ok so today was rather productive even though i got a late start....my daughter fell and looked like she may have broken her leg...so off to the ER we went...and we know how that goes...5 hrs later we left there with a diagnosis of no break thankfully. what aggrivates me is this: i'm a special forces medic. part of my job is not only taking but reading xrays and developing a diagnosis. the hospital staff at here at ft carson are pretty familiar with our scope of practice (i know because my second medical rotation i did here, thats when i first started looking at houses). so you'd think after hours of sitting in a waiting room, when that hospital staff is approached by someone who says "i'm an sf medic, i can read her xrays, can i take a look? if its broke we'll stay, if not we'll go and i'll accept the liability." you'd think they'd say "ok" if for no other reason than to get someone out of there a little bit quicker...but nope...what do i get "you have to wait like everyone else, we're backed up, you have to deal with it" etc etc. when i asked if they could at least check and make sure her paperwork is in the right spot (when my son broke his hand we sat around for 3 hrs while they lost his paperwork. we had to go back through triage all over again, finally got out of there at 1am on a school night...i was pissed) they looked at me like i had a d*ck coming out of my forehead! then proceded to watch tv while they attempted to "reassure" me that her paperwork was. they finally got up and checked when i told them to get off their butts and go check or i'd go to NCOIC. it was and they came back with smug little smirks. assholes. ok...on to the bronco....i didn't get as many pics as i wanted to today because it was a very aggrivating process. thanks to my neighbor we got the transfer case and tranny out today.

 

[lifeizhard102205]

i will start off by saying, when removing the tranny you MUST remove either the exhaust or the transfer case first. i tried to get the tranny and transfer case out as a unit but the muffler was in the way and i couldn't get it far enough over or the tcase/tranny far enough the opposite direction to clear. there are 6 bolts that hold the tcase to the adapter between it and the tranny. there's another 6 the hold the adapter to the tranny. i chose to remove the ones holding the adapter to the tcase because they were easier to get at. there are two bolts at the top of the tcase. the one on the driver side is pretty easy to get a socket and ratchet on. the one on the passenger side is a bigger PITA. i tried all different angles, floppy heads, 12" extensions etc. in the end a 1/2 socket, floppy head and 3" extension is all i needed to get the bolt out.

and here's a view of the tcase from through the floor pan that i removed.
that's the bolt in the previous pics.

oh yea, remember to disconnect the the linkage if you have a manual tcase and the wiring harness if you have an electric tcase like i do.
the bolt underneath the top on the passenger side i tried using an air ratchet and floppy head but the socket kept popping off. then i tried a regular ratchet and the same thing. finally i used a 1/2" box wrench and a strap to get a little more leverage and it broke it loose. instead of testing my luck i just used the open end of the wrench and took my time removing the bolt. talk about an uncomfortable position. i was on my side, holding myself up on an elbow with my other arm wrapped around the exhaust to tcase trying to remove the damn bolt. finally got it out after what seemed like forever. ok, after you have all the bolts out get a pry bar and a buddy. the tcase is a good 80 or so pounds and kinda awkward. start prying it off slowly....rotate it as necessary and it'll come off. just remember if you try to hold it by the yokes, they'll spin....that almost caused a little accident today....but we caught it.
sorry i dont have many pics today but thats why i'm trying to be as detailed as a i can in the write up.
ok, tranny time. if you haven't pulled the floor pan yet do so now. you'll need to. save yourself some time and disconnect the filler tube, there's one bolt that holds it to something (not sure what...mine wasn't there) and pull the tube out. now, remember how i said the bolt wasnt there on mine...still didnt stop the tube from getting hung up and squished...so i cut it with a sawzall when we discovered why the tranny was stuck.

also, do yourself a few favors here...drain ALL the fluid....from not only the tranny but the torque converter and the lines...i drained it all from the tranny and the lines....but not the tc....needless to say i had a gallon of tranny fluid to clean up.
the tranny has 3 connectors for the wiring harness...one on the top and one on each side. the harness has a bit of play in it so you can remove them now or later. i removed the one on the driver side and top. the one on the passenger side has a heat shield in front of it so i got that after the tranny came out.
dont forget to remove the starter and the flywheel cover. now you should be ready to remove the tranny. there's 6 nolts that hold it to the engine. the haynes i have says to remove the 4 torque converter bolts first but it doesn't say how. you'll notice the torque converter is bolted to the flywheel. the nuts on the front of the flywheel are removeable. i ended up pulling the tranny and did this part last. if it messes up the trans doing it this way and you want to reuse the tranny then take the time and turn the engine and remove the bolts. here's a pic of them.

there is enough room between the flywheel and the exhaust to get a ratchet and socket on these. i'm not reusing my tranny and it's shot anyways so i didnt care if it yanking it with the torque converter still attached to the flywheel messes up the tranny or not. after you remove these you got 6 bolts left. get yourself an impact, 2 12" extensions a 5/8" socket (i believe) and a floppy head for an impact. the two bolts on top you'll have to access through the floor pan. use the floppy head for the impact and 1 12" extension. they'll come right out. next you have the middle two bolts (the 6 bolts are in a semi circle with the arch going up. divide it in half going top to bottom, 3 on each side...top, middle and bottom) will need both the extensions and the floppy head. they pop right out as well. the bottom one on the driver side is easy to see and get to. the bottom on the passenger side i had to go in through the wheel well. for me it's not that big of a deal cause i dont have much of one left. but there's a bracket that was used to support the inner fender..i cut that off and it made the necessary room to access the bolt. if you haven't cut your inner fenders like i have then you'll have to be more creative considering you have both exhaust pipes, both cats and an AIR tube in the way.

 

[lifeizhard102205]

ok, thanks to my computer i lost the entire last post i was doing...so lets see how much i remember about what i wrote....
once all the bolts are out make sure its supported well on a tranny jack. the e4od has a nice rectangular bottom so getting a jack on it was easy. also ratchet straps make removal easier....i used one to secure the tranny to the jack and the other to pull it by securing it to my receiver shackle.

remember how i said before my tranny got stuck...thats cause the e4's have these little ears that stick out....the dipstick got locked in on the AIR tube and the ear on the driver's side got stuck on the body. the fix...a sawzall to the filler tube and a pry bar to the ear to assist it past the body...here's a pic of the pesky ear...like my pointer? haha..

so once these two were fixed the tranny slid right out....ok in reality the jack lost pressure and it dropped 6" rather suddenly causing my neighbor and i to move faster than either of have in a while. afterwards we laughed about it. at this time i removed the third and final wiring harness connector.

heres what you're left with if you did it my way....

now remember that the engine (and therefore the torque converter) rotates clockwise when viewed from the front. you'll want to minimize the counter clockwise rotation as much as possible. making sure to rotate to TC in the correct direction i was able to get all the TC bolts off the flywheel. be ready..the TC weighs about 35lbs. you have 6 bolts left on the flywheel now....i used my impact and they popped right out...one thing i like about autos....the flywheel weighs about 5lbs....haha. very nice when you consider the weight you've just removed....
now you have access to the rear main...if yours is leaking like mine now is the perfect time to swap it...be careful not to gouge the crank....

tomorrow i'll buy a quart of oil and use a little to lube the new rear main and install it then. as for tonight that's all the progress i've made....hopefully tomorrow i'll have it running again....i have to report in tuesday afternoon and start in processing wednesday so my goal is to be done by then. we shall see.

 

[Brochoncho]

something i liked that ford did on the 92-96's is include the clutch slave cylinder bracket into the clutch/brake pedal assembly. the 87-91 bracket is on the left. you may be able to use the slave cylinders from 87-91 on a 92-96 but you WILL have to redrill holes. something im glad i did while i was at the junkyard was pull the correct slave cylinder off the donor truck as well.

.

First off that is the clutch master cylinder not a slave cylinder. The slave is on the the transmission. BUT, before you put that zf in there you need to make a decision. I found this out the hard way. If you use that 92-96 master cylinder you will have to use the hose that came with it and get a slave cylinder for a 92-96 that matches. Or drill out the fire wall and use all the other 87-91 parts.

Here is why, the slave cylinders are different and has a different fitting at the end of the plasic hose. It will plug in but when you go to bleed it, it will never build enough pressure to move the clutch because it is sucking air around the fitting. I fought this for a few weeks on mine. I was trying to mix match parts and wasted a bunch of evenings. good luck!

 

[lifeizhard102205]

First off that is the clutch master cylinder not a slave cylinder. The slave is on the the transmission. BUT, before you put that zf in there you need to make a decision. I found this out the hard way. If you use that 92-96 master cylinder you will have to use the hose that came with it and get a slave cylinder for a 92-96 that matches. Or drill out the fire wall and use all the other 87-91 parts.

Here is why, the slave cylinders are different and has a different fitting at the end of the plasic hose. It will plug in but when you go to bleed it, it will never build enough pressure to move the clutch because it is sucking air around the fitting. I fought this for a few weeks on mine. I was trying to mix match parts and wasted a bunch of evenings. good luck!

thanks for the info. i went with a 93 clutch master and 93 slave cylinder. tried bleeding....i have no pedal. also, anyone have any advice which wires i need to jump to bypass the neutral saftey switch? pictures would be great. i pulled the entire e4od wiring harness so its not there anymore. i plugged in the clutch saftey switch and lights, bells and whistles come on but it doesn't even attempt to start.

 

[lifeizhard102205]

ok so the haynes says the neutral saftey switch is the purple and orange wire.....well on the e4od wiring harness there are two purple and orange wires..each going to a different connector....do i need to run a wire one of those pins to the other? heres a pic....

here you can see the two wires....

and here you can see them going to seperate connectors...

 

[lifeizhard102205]

ok heres where i'm at and here's what i've tried.....
clutch....still have no pedal.....when you push it down with your hand it easily goes to the floor with only a little resistance felt as it hits the bottom of the stroke. removed the rubber grommet on the bottom of the tranny and can see the slave cylinder pushing against the pressure plate but slave only moves about an 1/8". cant tell if i have any leaks due to, like a dumbass, i just cracked the bleeder valve as i was originally bleeding it and have residual brake fluild all over the tranny. tried to clean as best i could be haven't found my shop rags yet. since, i have hooked up an actual bleeding line and cup and bled it according to haynes (push pedal down and hold a few seconds release fully and quickly, repeat 10x on last stroke hold and bleed....repeat process 5x. still no luck. clutch master is for a 93 bronco with a manual, slave is for a 93 bronco manual.

starting-trying to bypass the neutral safety switch...haynes says it the purple and orange wires and black and pink. ok....so i did this...with the original wiring harness from the donor vehicle....

original harness spliced into left over speaker wire...black and pink are the black... and purple and orange are the red....spliced into original e4od wiring harness...black wire to black and pink and red to purple and orange....nothing....
then i tried this....cutting above mention wires on the wiring harness and looping them together like so.....

and still nothing.....i'm out of ideas..today is my last day of leave and i kinda need the bronco to run....how do i fix this?

oh yea..i promise i have a bunch more pics of my install....50 total on my photobucket account. once i get these issues fixed i'll post them.....

 

[Swat]

I found I had to hammer the clutch pedal to the floor several times to get it to bleed successfully. It's a two person job.

 

[Brochoncho]

What hose did you use? They are different, it will plug in but not all the way in. You sound like you have the wrong one for the set up. That is exactly what mine did.

For the NSS, I left the E4OD harness in there and jumped it this way. Notice the position of the connector round to the left and squared to the right. So on the top side of the contector I jumped the two outer most pin's on the top row.

Good luck!

 

[Brochoncho]

Here is how you bleed it.

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/244877

 

[Ogeechee 4x4]

On my '95 I connected the two "red with blue stripes" to bypass the neutral safety switch

obviously i went back and made a cleaner connection once i confirmed it worked.

 

[lifeizhard102205]

What hose did you use? They are different, it will plug in but not all the way in. You sound like you have the wrong one for the set up. That is exactly what mine did.

For the NSS, I left the E4OD harness in there and jumped it this way. Notice the position of the connector round to the left and squared to the right. So on the top side of the contector I jumped the two outer most pin's on the top row.

Good luck!

used a hose for a 92-96 bronco. after your advice i made sure i had matching components except for the clutch itself which i checked part numbers and its the same for 87-91 and 92-96 for the pressure plate and friction disc. as for jumping the NSS...followed what you side...and traced the wires all the back to the main connector...clipped them and wired them together...wahlah! truck fired right up.....one issue down...one more to go...thanks for the advice guys. now my clutch is rattling but i'm thinking thats because due to no pressure it's partially engaged.

 

[The_Green_Goblin]

dude i had to bleed the shi* out of mine and i eventually went and got a one man bleeder and let it gravity bleed for awhile befor doing the pumping thing. also its good practice not to push the clutch to the floor, because I heard it will shorten its life, because of dirt and sediment sits at the back of a master cylinder and then u push the orings and seals through it. Also always check the clutch master cylinder it drains quick while bleeding.

 

[c-dub]

and people think a mech clutch is a bad thing:histerica

 

[lifeizhard102205]

how irritating can things get....got the truck to start....then got the clutch bled...then went to start it again....bells and whistles back on...turn key and....nothing....WTF!!! i had a running truck with no clutch...now i have a good clutch with a non running truck! i can't win for losing.....

 

[currituckf150]

Lifeizhard, what are you going to do with the 87-91 pedal bracket?