dash_cam's 96 EB - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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dash_cam's 96 EB

alright, so i have meant to start this for a while but have been busy. i bought this in late january in tucson, az. it was nearly exactly what i wanted, which was a nearly stock 1996 with gray interior, 351, and manual windows & 4x4. and, most importantly, it was in my very modest budget. so i flew out and drove it the 930 miles back to dallas. it ran great. i averaged 15-17 mpg doing up to 75 mph, as speed limits allowed.

the stats:
1996 Eddie Bauer
351w / E4OD transmission
Tow package
Electric windows & 4x4
"red" & tan
223,000 miles
relatively new & good shape BFG a/t
newer warn hubs
k&n intake
newer radiator
good brakes

good:
rust free
straight body
stock condition
door windows work
doesn't seem to burn oil
doesn't seem to leak any brake or transmission fluids
if it was a house, they'd say it has good bones

bad:
leaky rear-main seal
no a/c
back window/tailgate sensor problem
leaky back window
incredibly soft steering
engine won't warm up properly
no heater
only one speaker worked
airbag light is on
worn out interior
front bumper is damaged, needs to be replaced

i don't have a lot of pics but i'll post what i have. i took the bronco to three different locally respected 4x4 shops to look at that roll cage. i told them my goals for the truck and asked if i should have them tie it to the frame. the consensus was this: they could do it, but it was unnecessary. the cage was well built and would be sufficient for a basic rollover.









the updates below are as of this posting, so between january and march 2015...

*toss dash cover
*replace front seat covers
*pulled K&N intake and replaced with stock intake

Did a tune-up
purolator air filter a24378
summit high power ignition coil 850507
plug wires - taylor spiro pro spark 74058
distributor cap napa FA134
distributor rotor bwd D214
spark plugs motorcraft SP501
pcv purolator pv68c
fuel filter purolator f64711

the wires looked like the originals but the plugs had been replaced. cap & rotor were worn but not horribly. I did the ignition coil just because, really.

It was running super cold, so I pulled the thermostat to discover it was installed backwards. Replaced that and it helped, but still runs colder than it should. when the engine warms up, the heater works. so, thankfully, i was right that they were directly related and i don't have a separate heater core problem.
thermostat 195* stant 45359.

*pulled radio & door speakers, replaced with marine radio & speakers with fresh speaker wires. back speakers are waiting to be installed.

Did some serious suspension & steering repairs
*new moog radius arm bushings (the PO had replaced the radius arm bushings but they left out the spacer. so the bushings were loose.)
*1 moog axle pivot bushing. i need to do the other axle pivot bushing.
*new moog tie rod ends and drag link
*remanufactured a1 cardone steering gear box

*checked rear window motor, and the motor is good. i got the window up once with someone pushing on the driver side of the tailgate. i'm thinking window sensor. as a stop-gap, i've wired leads to the motor and run them outside the tailgate. for now, i hot wire the motor with my makita 18v battery.

*back window leaked. discovered the tailgate skin was sheered on the passenger side. when the spare tire was not attached to the tailgate, the window sealed. when i closed the tire swing, the weight pulled on the skin and it pulled the seal away from the window. i got the skin welded (no, i can't weld) for $20 and now it seals. we'll see how long that lasts
this was my first attempt to fix the leaky rear window

here it is welded back together. i need to do some clean up, but for now at least the window shouldn't leak. and that was job 1. you can also see the leads for the rear window motor coming out of the back, too.




*investigated the airbag light. it's flashing code 21, which is a sensor not attached properly. i looked and found the sensor was not attached at all. the guy who built the roll cage removed it to run the cage there. i have to sort out what i'm going to do with that later

*replaced the driver seat belt latch because the old one was not stock and fit very poorly

*mounted the CB antenna to my tire swing.

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post #2 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 02:22 PM
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Looks like you've got yourself a project there. I agree on the roll cage foam. I would recommend some sort of padding for the top cross bar, but the rest can probably go. Unless you have kids, then hang onto it for now.

As far as the tailgate window safety switch goes, its probably not the switch at all. I'm willing to bet its actually the latch bolt bushings are either worn down and completely missing. Those bushings need to be intact in order for the latch to close properly. A few bucks at the nearest parts store should fix that.

For your engine heat, try checking your actual engine heat with a thermal gun or something before you try fixing anything. Chances are, its just the thermocouple for the engine temp gauge that's giving you bad readings. My 91' 302 is doing the same thing and replacing that couple is on my to-do list.

Oh, and when you go get that tailgate re-welded, make sure the guy does a good job and removes paint from around the welding area so you don't end up with contaminants in the weld itself. That will just cause problems later on down the road.
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1991 Bronco w/ 5.0L V8, Auto w/ E40D trans, factory spare tire rack, factory limited slip diff, dual batteries, custom air intake, 8K lb. winch, tactical seat covers, drop down TV w/ CD/DVD player, 31's on stock suspension, roof baskets, new injectors, rear bumper w/ tire rack, 33" Goodyear Wranglers, 2" suspension lift.

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post #3 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-18-2015, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFBronco235 View Post
Looks like you've got yourself a project there. I agree on the roll cage foam. I would recommend some sort of padding for the top cross bar, but the rest can probably go. Unless you have kids, then hang onto it for now.

As far as the tailgate window safety switch goes, its probably not the switch at all. I'm willing to bet its actually the latch bolt bushings are either worn down and completely missing. Those bushings need to be intact in order for the latch to close properly. A few bucks at the nearest parts store should fix that.

For your engine heat, try checking your actual engine heat with a thermal gun or something before you try fixing anything. Chances are, its just the thermocouple for the engine temp gauge that's giving you bad readings. My 91' 302 is doing the same thing and replacing that couple is on my to-do list.

Oh, and when you go get that tailgate re-welded, make sure the guy does a good job and removes paint from around the welding area so you don't end up with contaminants in the weld itself. That will just cause problems later on down the road.
thanks for responding, but i think you missed a couple things. i hope i don't sound too much like an arse.

when i first got it, the temp would barely come up. it was 30* outside and when i drove down the freeway, it would drop. if i was going up an incline, it would rise, slightly. the heater didn't blow hot at all. a few days after i got it home, i pulled the thermostat and it was installed backwards. i put in a new one. the heater works now, relative to the engine temp. but it still doesn't get fully warmed up. i'm pretty confident the new thermostat isn't doing the job, b/c i'm facing the same symptoms.

the tailgate is already welded now. i need to sand and paint the welded spots.

the tailgate is closing properly. always did.

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post #4 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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I checked the striker bushing on the tailgate and they were there, albeit damaged. I replaced them but that did not fix the problem. To get the window to work on the switch, i had to push excessively hard against the top of the tailgate while hitting the switch. I bypassed the switch and it's fixed. I'm attaching a picture of the stitch by itself for anyone who may have the same issue.

i also ran the cb antenna cable in the door panels, so that looks much nicer now.

after that, i lightly ground down the tack welds. Then i gave it a quick couple coats of rustoleum.

I pulled the foam pads off the roll cage.

And, finally, i pulled the rear carpet. There was a good amount of moisture in there. I knew the tailgate window was leaking, but i think there another leak. I'm guessing i need to put some insulation between the camper and the truck.

when i bought the bronco, the camper was off and i had to put it on. I don't have any memory of a seal. So i guess that's high on the to do list now.







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post #5 of 60 (permalink) Old 03-29-2015, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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i painted my CB antenna with rubberized undercoating to make it black instead of orange. it looks pretty good. i'm not certain how long that will last, but hopefully it'll last long enough for me to get around to buying a black antenna.

so with the bed stripped, i bought some herculiner. however, before i get to it, i installed this anti-fatigue mat i bought at sears. if it wears well enough, i'll put it back on top of the herculiner for additional protection. i picked this one because it's one piece.

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post #6 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-03-2015, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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well, during the week i took my bronco to get the 2nd axle pivot bushing installed. the guy said he had a little trouble getting it in, but overall the swap was ok.

i took it today to get an alignment at my normal alignment shop, but they were closed for good friday. so i went to another shop i have used for one or two things and they said they couldn't align it. they claimed bad ball joints + bad axle pivot bushings.

they showed me the truck on the lift and there was some play (minimal) on a couple of the ball joints. the axle pivot bushing i replaced, they said was "no good" but didn't offer much explanation. then they showed me the one the mechanic did.

holy shit, what a hack job! i'm pretty disappointed to see the lip of the bushing beat to hell. however, i don't see how the damage could render the bushing bad. i declined their $560 of repairs and left.

i've already ordered moog ball joints from amazon, but i'm going to try to get it aligned in the morning, too. if my normal alignment shop says they can do it, i'll let them and return the ball joints. i'd rather save the money for now.

if they say they can't, well... we'll see what they say before i talk about that.

regardless, i don't think i can go back to that mechanic again. it sucks b/c i've used him for years when i have a job i just don't want to do. there have been a couple small things over the years but this is the last straw.

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post #7 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-08-2015, 01:54 AM
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It's hard to install the pivot bushings. I hate ttb, hate to say it. You almost have to drop the arm and press it in.

Your tailgate most likely just needs new inner and outer belt strips. Check the upper channel in the topper for dry rot too. Send me a pm, I'm in dallas often and would be willing to look over your truck and tell you what needs done.
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post #8 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-08-2015, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GetBent4x4 View Post
It's hard to install the pivot bushings. I hate ttb, hate to say it. You almost have to drop the arm and press it in.

Your tailgate most likely just needs new inner and outer belt strips. Check the upper channel in the topper for dry rot too. Send me a pm, I'm in dallas often and would be willing to look over your truck and tell you what needs done.
thanks for the offer, but i already have the tailgate settled.


i got the truck aligned, no problem, by my normal alignment shop. so that's good.

and, my spare tire cover came in today. the old one was held on wit bailing wire and zip ties.

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post #9 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-13-2015, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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so over the weekend...
i installed my trailer hitch, curt 14001. (class IV - intentionally overkill)


i had to relocate my 7 pin plug because it was in the way of the hitch.



i also installed my trailer brake controller, but i forgot to get a picture of it.

finally, i found the pressure hose of my p/s gear box was about 1/2 turn loose. it looks like that was the source of my p/s fluid leak. hopefully over the next few days it'll prove to be true.



***edit***
adding pics of the trailer brake a year late.

this is the brake controller i use - tekonsha 90160 primus IQ . my dad bought it for his vehicle but ended up trading it in for one with a built in trailer brake controller.


i did a very crude mount for the trailer brake


this is the pigtail where it hangs down to connect to the controller


and this is where it connected to the factory wiring
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post #10 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-24-2015, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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today was a good day. i did a fair bit of cosmetic work today.
replaced chrome grille with a black grille



and i applied vinyl wrap to the faux wood grain.






i removed the chrome from around the wheel well



and i pulled my wiper arms and repainted them black



also, to do a little backlog of work... a couple weeks ago i painted my roll bar black with spray-on bed liner.


and a different weekend i set out to fix my broken tailgate handle. the latch was bent pretty badly. but with a little bending and prying, i got it back together. and i had to replace a couple of the retaining clips for the tailgate rods. i couldn't find them easily in the parts stores, but my local ford dealership had them in stock. so it worked out.

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post #11 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-25-2015, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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my bronco came with a PA speaker connected to the CB. but the wiring was worse than janky. i removed it and the spliced together wiring that was attached. i disassembled the speaker and soldered on fresh new wiring. then i ran it through the firewall where the hood release comes through. i attached the speaker to the fender well next to the fuse box. i actually unclipped the fuse box and gently twisted it to the side so i could drill a hole.
here's the speaker attached and the speaker wire running through the firewall. i used blue silicone to seal the back of the speaker and the firewall (not pictured).


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post #12 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-22-2015, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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so i did this a couple weeks ago, i guess. went to change brake pads & rotors. found the rubber dust boots on the pistons were kaput. the caliper bolts were sticking, as evidenced by the uneven wear on one side. and, when the previous owner converted from auto to manual hubs, he failed to pick up the spindle nut conversion. (that's covered here: warn hubs problem - what did PO do?)

so, in the end, i installed the following:
a1 cardone reman calipers (both sides)
new caliper bolts
hawk LTS brake pads (HB295Y.630)
centric premium rotors (120.65041)
warn premium locking hubs (20990)
mile marker spindle conversion kit (95-32720)
brake fluid flush (valvoline brake fluid)

the only thing i forgot to picture was the calipers. and the old brake parts. they were toasted.

check out the first bit of brake fluid to come out of there. it was pretty gross.





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post #13 of 60 (permalink) Old 07-05-2015, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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ok i've done a few more things to the bronco.
i added a tuffy stereo console. it's the 8" wide version. instead of putting my radio in there i added my CB. i had to enlarge the opening for it on the bottom, though. it was used, so there was a hole drilled in the side of it at the bottom. i decided to reuse it for the wiring. i covered it with a plastic loom so it looks clean.
i also added the second cup holder in the back so my kids have cup holders, too. the console is far enough forward that the rear cup holders are clear when flipping the back seat forward.





a local bronco owner knows how to weld. so we worked a deal where he made a set of rock sliders for me. i installed them the other day. we followed the blue prints from FSB, but for whatever reason, they say to cut the front legs shorter than the rear. well, that was not necessary on mine. so mine angle toward the front. it's no biggie. i have an idea of how to fix it if i decide it bothers me. but i don't think it will.
first i primered them. then i sprayed them with spray on bed liner. i have used it in a couple different spots so far and have been satisfied.





i went to a local muffler shop and had the guy install an 18 magnaflow 11256 muffler for me, too. it's not quite as loud as i expected based on the youtube videos i watched. my only guess is either that 1) it'll get louder as it "breaks in". although, i'm at ~200 mi already. and 2) having the third cat really cuts down the sound.

i didn't want anything too loud. but it could be louder. i haven't pulled anything with it, yet. but i will very soon. another concern was that i go camping periodically. i didn't want to wake up the camp site if i start up the truck at night.

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post #14 of 60 (permalink) Old 07-13-2015, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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after putting a few hundred miles on the truck since adding the muffler, i'll say that i probably could have gone with the 14" muffler.

i wanted to err on the side of too quiet, though. and it's ok that it's a little quieter than i wanted. when pulling a 3500lb camper, though, it was as loud as i had wanted. when i was doing light off road driving, too, it was plenty loud going up some hills.

maybe 14" would have been too loud, i doubt it, though.
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post #15 of 60 (permalink) Old 07-13-2015, 10:31 AM
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Sliders look great! When I installed mine it was the passenger side front that the frame rail bent inwards more on. So it needed to 1/2 longer than drivers side and the back 2 arms. Maybe that is what the other thread is referencing. I have same year as yours 96..
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1996 Eddie Bauer 351W/E40D/Dana 44, TTB R 8.8 (4.56 F&R), 6" Lift, 35x13.50 Toyo MTs, sag PS, 1 ton brakes, off-road bumpers, Warn 15K, Edelbrock intakes, lots 'O lights.
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post #16 of 60 (permalink) Old 07-13-2015, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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i forgot to mention here that i also installed a dash cam.
hard wiring a dash cam

i have shot some video and it seems to work great. what i want to post is a 45 minute video driving out of a national forest trail. i have to condense it down to less than 15 min so i can post on youtube. here are pics of it installed, though.





Quote:
Originally Posted by 96bronco View Post
Sliders look great! When I installed mine it was the passenger side front that the frame rail bent inwards more on. So it needed to 1/2 longer than drivers side and the back 2 arms. Maybe that is what the other thread is referencing. I have same year as yours 96..
thanks! and about the lengths, i don't know. honestly, we should have just friggin' measured. after installing them, i realized that the front part of the passenger side was a little too close to that bolt under the body right at the seam. anyway, when you drive it would bounce / vibrate and hit it. i ended up having to extend it off the frame maybe 1/4" using a longer bolt and some washers. i don't go off-roading much, though, so it shouldn't be a big deal. mostly it'll be used as a step for my wife and kids.

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post #17 of 60 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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well, the welds broke on my tailgate. i decided that function > form. so this happened.

also, i added two rivets to the top. hopefully the different angle will help keep everything in order. i'm going to go back and paint it all again, but not until i see how it's holding up.







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post #18 of 60 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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also, in late july my bronco started shifting funky. it didn't always happen and it wasn't the same problem. symptoms included:

1) a blinky "OD off" light (once)
2) hard shift between 1-2
3) hard shift in all gears
4) revving high before shifting
5) acting perfectly fine for an entire day of driving
6) transmission fluid that looked good as new

i kinda piddled with it a now and then, but mostly it sat while i tried to read up. i had two big problems, in addition to limited time:
1) inconsistent problems
2) such a vast array of possibilities of where to start based on research on FSB

finally, i got pissed off enough and just set out to drive it for the entire weekend. i was going to figure out exactly what my main symptoms were. basically it came to revving before shifting hard in all gears. about the same time i figured out that, it actually threw a code.

i made this thread shortly before i got the CEL
how to pull ocdes on e4od

when i replaced the VSS, it was day and night. i've pretty much driven it a week straight and had a recurrence of hard shifting for a couple stops/accelerations. however, that was it. and it was very mild compared to the way it was.

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post #19 of 60 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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final update for today...installing my remote transmission filter. thankfully i added the pics to super motors before my phone's memory card died.

Adding a remote transmission filter

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post #20 of 60 (permalink) Old 12-22-2015, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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i haven't been able to do too much with the bronco lately. i've been dealing with a transmission / shifting problem that i just can't solve. however, with a little vacation for the christmas and new year holidays, i decided to tackle a few small things.

first i set out to clean up some rust.
cleaning up some rust

in my rust busting, i broke the passenger parking light housing and found my vapor canister was also useless. (pics in the rust thread). so i set out to the junk yard to get replacements. while there, i picked up a couple small things that had been on my "to do" list. 1) new a/c vent and 2) cage for the ash tray. and while piddling with the ash tray, i went ahead and removed the cig lighter for a dual USB charger. it's a tight fit, but it works.







i actually had to install this sideways so i could be the tabs up to clear the console when i slide it in place.


and then, while i had to remove the headlight bezel to do the parking light, i finally got around to painting both bezels and grill with spray on bedliner. it's the rustoleum spray that i used for the roll cage and it's held up great.

potato camera strikes again, but this is the best i could do...



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