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Before you remove the old capacitor and install the new one, note the polarity. All you have to do is make sure the white stripe on the new capacitor is in the same position as the old one was. THIS IS IMPORTANT!
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You're simply going to melt the solder from the leads on the old capacitor (from the underside of the circuit board) and pull the old capacitor up and out while the solder is liquid. The new capacitor installs the same way, remember the polarity. You want the new capacitor to sit down on the board and not be sticking way up, which would cause the plastic module cover not to fit right. Keep heating up both leads and work the new capacitor down in. Take your time. Make sure not to get the capacitor itself too hot. If you are gently pushing the new capacitor down while heating the solder, the capacitor should NOT get hot enough to hurt your finger! You can kill it if it gets too hot so if you feel it getting real warm, let the solder and capacitor cool before continuing. Also, try not to let the leads of the capacitor touch each other during installation.

The new capacitor should sit down in place just like the old one. This picture shows how it should look (I know it's the old capacitor, I didn't have a picture of the new one installed).
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UPDATE: The capacitor from this EXCELLENT technical write up is obsolete, I contacted DigiTech, the replacement capacitor is https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/würth-elektronik/860040373003/5727387 this is the capture in case the website doesn't work. I installed it and it worked.

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Got a blank overhead console temperature/compass display? Here's how to fix one variant of the circuitry that is at fault. This is on a '95 model; there are two different circuit boards commonly installed in the overhead console. Both tend to fail after so many years. The somewhat more common circuit board has a "510" resistor that burns out, and replacement of the resistor is documented in a different thread on the forum. This thread shows repair of the other less common circuit board, which has a capacitor that leaks and causes the display to boot up after a long delay or not at all. If you get halfway through this guide and your circuit board does not match the pictures, search the forums for info on replacement of the 510 resistor.

Start by removing the overhead console from the vehicle. There are three screws that you will need to remove before it will drop down. See pictures for screw locations circled in red.
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Hello, as you pointed out, I have the same problem with that capacitor on the corner.Definitely got the black gooey stuff at the base.My question is when I looked at your invoice.You ordered two different types of capacitors and I was wondering which ones should I get
Thank you😀
 
Temp display and compass have been erratic for a bit and seem to have finally gone out. Pulled the board and here’s a pic of the capacitor. Ordered a few from Digikey. Hopefully this fix works.
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@ZHBronco , thank you for the link to the capacitors. I just did the repair and the compass/temp display in the overhead console is working fine now.
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Great! Now you can sell your service on eBay, with less than a dollar investment you can get over $100 lol.
 
Put it all back together. It's just the reverse of disassembly. Don't forget to connect the electrical connector to the display module, and the electrical connector to the overhead console.

If all goes well, your console display should light up very shortly after turning the ignition to RUN. If it does not immediately light up, don't freak out. Make sure your dimmer is turned up (rotate the headlight knob). Drive around for a little while and see if it lights up; a delayed light up means the capacitor is not functioning right, but the circuitry is still intact. You can always take it apart and try again.

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This concludes this how-to. Questions and comments are welcome.
Hello
I did replace the capacitor that I ordered from digital key, it worked for a little bit and then one out ,so I replaced the capacitor again always making sure that the white stripe on the capacitor was facing inboard like the original( polarity)
Same problem
any ideas or should I send it out to a company to get repairedo_O
 
Did you hear the capacitor pop? Unless the capacitor was faulty, for it to go out would imply a voltage overload. If I blew a couple caps, I'd send mine out for repair or look into buying a replacement online.
 
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