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Great write up, I was able to fix mine with a new capacitor from Digi-Key also. I bought two @ $0.48 each, and $2.85 postage, lol. Thanks again!

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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Great write up, I was able to fix mine with a new capacitor from Digi-Key also. I bought two @ $0.48 each, and $2.85 postage, lol. Thanks again!
I'm glad it worked out for you. Funny you should mention. I just received a message in the mail that I could be part of a legal settlement caused by companies making people pay too much for capacitors.

I do want to add that this fix does not necessarily do the trick for all overhead consoles. I have 5 or 6 modules I've scavenged; some work, most don't. Some seem to have other issues perhaps stemming from the leaking capacitor damaging the printed circuit. The easiest fix I have found so far is a later model Explorer module, which is what I'm currently using. I prefer the soft touch lamp buttons though, the clicky buttons from the Explorer feel cheaper.
 
Got my caps in. Thought I had ordered 2 but got 4....if anybody needs one....it fired right up and now I got my display back. Thank you for this write up....
 
Got my caps in. Thought I had ordered 2 but got 4....if anybody needs one....it fired right up and now I got my display back. Thank you for this write up....
Thanks for the capacitor @thequietman! I took about hour messing with the screwdriver and soldering gun and got my overhead display working again! Such a great write up @arco777 and huge thanks to @schwim for reviving the photos from the photobucket plague!
 
Glad yall fixed yalls display, i fried mine, idk how i replaced the capacitor and the 161 resistor and installed it and the display appeared for a second and then went out and then 4 orange lines appeared going across the screen from the sides and i took it apart thinking i messed something up and tried 5 different times and nothing changed just those orange bars glowing, and i gave up so i just left it in there and was gonna mess with it again ina few but unfortunately the led screen went out again so i thought the capacitor again and when i took it off i heard the screen sounding like a little metal wire tin so i knew it busted woo, so now what?
 
I know this post is a little old and I’m pretty new. My display wasn’t working and I wasn’t bothered by that until today when it caught fire. I guess what I’m trying to say is it’s better to fix it sooner than later or just take it out till you get the time to fix it right. I’m SOL on an overhead computer now.
 
I do have a question and I think this is the best forum to ask it in, I have heard mixed reviews about pulling the overhead console computer out of an Explorer. I keep looking but the connectors do not look the same. In another forum I was told that some are the same but I don’t know what years will match and be a direct swap. Does anyone know?
 
The connectors are the same, at least all of the connectors I have came across. The housings are a bit different as well as the courtesy lights. I have gotten several computers out of Explorer overhead units and used / sold them. The only problem is what you get out of the junkyards probably have capacitor issues as well. Sooner or later you and going to have to do some soldering and replace the capacitors.
 
There is a possible issue with the thermometers giving a false reading when you use a Explorer computer, but yes, you can use the Explorer computer. I am using one in my truck now.
 
My thermometer is a couple of degrees off, but no biggie. I cant remember the exact years of Explorers to scavange, but I think they are around 95-99. You can see they look just like the 92-96 computers in our trucks.
 
I do have a question and I think this is the best forum to ask it in, I have heard mixed reviews about pulling the overhead console computer out of an Explorer. I keep looking but the connectors do not look the same. In another forum I was told that some are the same but I don’t know what years will match and be a direct swap. Does anyone know?
So some explorer printed circuits have the exact same plug as the bronco, some have the plug in a different location and shape.

Remember that this is where it plugs into the overhead lights. The plug goes into the body harness is the same as the bronco on both versions.

Long story short, take the printed circuit AND the lights as it might be different than yours.

Also the plastic lights are so damn brittle you usually break them trying to remove.

Some explorers have lights with metal housings...i find those more desirable as they are less likely to break.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
 
Once the console drops down, unplug the black electrical connector tethering it to the vehicle. There is a small black tab on the connector that you press down and the connector pulls apart.

Now remove the console electronics module from the console assembly. Remove the screws circled in red.
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Work the electronic module out. Be gentle. You'll need to disconnect its electrical connector, just wiggle and pull.
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You should have the module free now.
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You'll notice it has two clips at the front and a hooked tab at the rear. Gently bend open the front clips and lift up the front, and slide the cover apart to remove the circuit board. Remove any static electricity from your body before touching the circuit board. When handling the circuit board, hold it by its outside edges.
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What happens if you reverse the polarity on the 510 Resistor. I sent mine out for repair. When I got it back and plugged it in the display lit up, went out, and smoke came from the board.
 
What happens if you reverse the polarity on the 510 Resistor. I sent mine out for repair. When I got it back and plugged it in the display lit up, went out, and smoke came from the board.
yikes where'd you send it out to? i want to avoid that place.

anyone out there have an extra capacitor they can drop in the mail for me?
 
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