Hi there.

You are best off just building a 302 for ease. Swap heads, cam, and get the compression to 9.5 or so. Then have TwEECer or similar do a tune for it. This should put you around 300 HP and 400 ft/lbs.

Yes, a 351 will directly swap in, but your computer may not like that. Though a tune can take care of that. Transmission is the same for 302 and 351w (and 300-i6).

Or build a roller 351w and tune the EEC to that. Building a solid high performance street engine will generally run you $5-7 grand.

 

Hi there.

You are best off just building a 302 for ease. Swap heads, cam, and get the compression to 9.5 or so. Then have TwEECer or similar do a tune for it. This should put you around 300 HP and 400 ft/lbs.

Yes, a 351 will directly swap in, but your computer may not like that. Though a tune can take care of that. Transmission is the same for 302 and 351w (and 300-i6).

Or build a roller 351w and tune the EEC to that. Building a solid high performance street engine will generally run you $5-7 grand.

Hi there.

You are best off just building a 302 for ease. Swap heads, cam, and get the compression to 9.5 or so. Then have TwEECer or similar do a tune for it. This should put you around 300 HP and 400 ft/lbs.

Yes, a 351 will directly swap in, but your computer may not like that. Though a tune can take care of that. Transmission is the same for 302 and 351w (and 300-i6).

Or build a roller 351w and tune the EEC to that. Building a solid high performance street engine will generally run you $5-7 grand.

what would be the difference between a roller block 351w and a regular 351w?

 

Here is a guy doing the swap and his saga.

67galax's 1996 Bronco 351W ZF5 Swap and Other Things

Hi all, I decided to start a build thread for my engine/trans swap. I've been posting updates in the 'what did you do to your bronco today' thread and I'd like to add more pics and detail and not clog that one up too bad. Here's some background: I've had the bronco for 9-10 years now. Never...

www.fullsizebronco.com

He didn’t have to do the 5speed swap, but if you plan to, this is the time to do it.
what’s wrong with keeping the 302?

 

Here is a guy doing the swap and his saga.

67galax's 1996 Bronco 351W ZF5 Swap and Other Things

Hi all, I decided to start a build thread for my engine/trans swap. I've been posting updates in the 'what did you do to your bronco today' thread and I'd like to add more pics and detail and not clog that one up too bad. Here's some background: I've had the bronco for 9-10 years now. Never...

www.fullsizebronco.com

He didn’t have to do the 5speed swap, but if you plan to, this is the time to do it.
what’s wrong with keeping the 302?

i don’t mind keeping the 302, I just feel like changing it to a 351w will give it much more power. But I’m still new to these kind of things so I’m trying to get see what people recommend

is there any benefits in making it a 5 speed?

 

I would recommend blueprint engines. You can get what you want in a 302 with a warranty f

 

Or 7k. Damn broken screen

 

Wow and I was told the guy building my engine was steep at 4 grand to go .030 over balanced, blueprinted, GT40 heads, and a 2 year 24,000 mile warranty.

 

96-97.5 explorer mountaineer 5.0 longblock. Roller gt40 head. I sometimes find them in the salvage yards with only 85k-140k miles. I suspect the transmission sharted it's self.

 

dude check out tri star crate engines. i want to drop the 351w they i have in mine to replace my old beaten 302.
they have a 351w making 380hp for like 4k

 

MOST ALL CRATE ENGINES are cammed for a carburetor. To run correctly on EFI, will require a cam swap and this will likely change the whole dynamic of the engine. When building an engine its always best to choose a cam and build the engine to suit it.

 

Helpful thread!

 

I just bought a short block from CREB engineering. Look on eBay. They have a very good reputation.

Mine is a 351w non roller block. It was about $2100.

I sent him my edelbrock performer cam, lifters, push rods and timing chain set, e-street aluminum heads, and comp cams magnum roller rockers.

Short block $2100
E-street heads $1000
Edelbrock Performer intake (used) $200
Edelbrock cam and lifters $245
Timing chain set $65
Push rods $40
Oil Pump $70
Oil pump pickup $50
Gaskets $200
Misc $250

About $4000

He installed all of that, cleaned the heads, check push rod length, adjusted the valves and degreed the cam for free.

I just got it back and everything looks great. I put my intake and oil pan on along with the timing chain cover, water pump, and headers.

He also build long blocks.

Owner’s name is Jeremy and I was able to communicate with him directly during the entire build and he does all the machine work himself including hand polishing all the seal surfaces.

351w / 357w Ford Short block,race prepped,can make 500+hp, SALE Price!!!!! | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 351w / 357w Ford Short block,race prepped,can make 500+hp, SALE Price!!!!! at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

As for the 302 vs the 351 I currently have a 302 in the wife’s 85 and the 351 in my 86.

I can tell the difference.

85 has 33’s and 3.55 gears EFI
86 has 35’s and 3.54 gears carb

The 351 will out pull the 302 in stock form all day long. It has more low end grunt and more top end power.

The 302 feels snappier and lighter and maybe more responsive but the 351 has more authority.

Think cheetah vs bear. That may be a bit extreme but you get the idea.

You might also consider throwing a straight 6 in there and BigBlue has lots of first hand experience with that.

Mine is going on the DYNO next week and I will have numbers to share with everyone for reference.



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You might also consider throwing a straight 6 in there and BigBlue has lots of first hand experience with that

Most people cant be convinced to join the big six crowd. I did make a slight nod to that in my first post though lol.

Ill pit my 300 six against any non-stroker 302 or 351 here and probably pull a bigger stump and match high speed. Its not slow by any means and itll do 90mph with ease. Though with no OD, 100 is about max rpms in 4th gear. It takes 5000 rpm like its nothing though much more and it falls flat on its face! With a properly ported and valved head, 500hp and 8000 rpms are not out of the question. I know of one with a special head making 600 hp in a dragster.

 

I had the machine work done by Kelley's Machine and built this myself for about $4k. It's a 5.0 roller block with an Explorer cam, GT40P heads, Weiand intake, Holley Truck Avenger carb, Holley fuel pump, Flow Kooler water pump, HEI style dizzy, MSD plug wires, Perma-Dry gaskets on valve covers and oil pan, Federal Mogul bearings, Fel-Pro gaskets, and ARP fasteners top-to-bottom inside-and-out. The customer changed their mind and had me build them something else, entirely, that made almost double the power. Allowed me to keep the engine for my time invested. The heads have since been swapped over to 3 bar GT40's (milled to Cobra spec), Cobra 1.7 roller rockers added, first gen Lightning headers added, and I ditched the carb and dizzy for the BKO's fuel injected set-up. It'll probably make around 230-240 HP / 285-300 TQ. Nothing spectacular, but neither was the price.

 

@67galax thanks for the attention to detail! I don't know if it matters but I have moved to the stock position. I had bought a new bypass hose and it looked like it belonged there, did a little more research and found the correct 90 deg elbow that goes to the top inlet. Thanks again.

 

Scuse my ignorance but why is there a filter on the head cover?


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You want the short answer or the long answer?

 

Short answer is there is a filter on it so clean, filtered air goes into the crankcase.

 

To the original poster:

Why do you think your engine is "giving up on you"? Is it burning oil? Leaking oil? Smoking?

Don't get me wrong, I love building engines and upgrading, but the unpopular answer is that if the engine runs decent and passes a compression / leakdown test - most people would get more benefits from swapping in lower gears than replacing an engine.

A buddy of mine has a K5 blazer on 35s. Has had it for what seems like forever. He bought it off a guy who spent a GOOD chunk of cash getting all the rust fixed, body work and paint, redid the interior, rebuilt the transmission and transfer case, lift, tires, wheels etc. Then griped about it being a "dog" (factory 3.08 gears). And said it needed the engine rebuilt. Guy got a quote for like $6K from some shop and decided to buy a new truck and sell the Blazer. Tune up, a few gaskets, carb rebuild, headers and 4.56 gears. That pig will bark 2nd (built 700R4).