[Steve83]

The little it's off isn't worth fooling with and since it reads a bit fast, it helps when the little lady is driving! She's got a bit of a lead-foot!

That's NOT the reason you need to check the calibration. Read that caption - it only takes a few seconds to see if the calibration is correct.

 

[Aaron91RS]

1. Ground the Black Lead of your Test Light (circuit tester). You can either connect the lead to the Ground Testing Lead or any other verified ground on the vehicle.
2. Insert the Positive Lead of the Test Light into the passenger side of the ignition Coil Connector (image 6). Have a helper watch the TEST light or position it where viewable from within the cab if working alone.
3. Turn and hold the key at the START position.

While the key is held in the START position, the Test Light should blink ON and OFF if the Ignition Coil is receiving the Switching Signal. Again... while the key is held in the START position.

Image 6: Switching Signal at Ignition Coil Connector. Mine tested a bad signal as the light did not turn ON and OFF. Instead mine remained Constant.

Now we're getting somewhere! If the Test Light blinked ON and OFF during this step of testing, then you have a faulty Ignition Coil and replacing it should resolve your no start issue.

If it does not blink ON and OFF however, then you have either a bad TFI (ICM) or PIP sensor. Step 6 will determine whether it is the TFI or PIP.

am I the only one that thinks that contradicts itself?

 

[Txfirerescue]

Which distributor did you end up getting? I'm on the hunt for my 94/95 right now.


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[Txfirerescue]

am I the only one that thinks that contradicts itself?

No, just restated. I could see how it's confusing but what he said is correct


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[Mark Laschinsky]

I know this thread is a little old, but I recently found it while seeking to diagnose my issue with my 5.0 1994 F150.
Occasionally over the years it would act a bit funny such as erratic idle or a stall and then wonder if it would restart. Mostly this was when hot.
Now recently like in the past 2-3 months it developed an intermittent sputtering, miss type feel at highway speed. Now it does this on a more regularly occurring basis plus it also does it when applying more pedal such as when I go up hills or accelerate to get onto highway or anything requiring increased throttle under load. Also when the stutter happens, I can hear detonation like the timing is off. I am also now getting a check engine light whereas I was getting the issue but no light. My OBD1 Code reader put out codes 172 Hego shows always lean, 211 Pip circuit fault, and 332 Insufficient Egr flow.

So, as I see this testing is for failure to start issues but does not mention intermittent running problems like I have. I need to get a spark tester to do some of the tests above, and I have most everything else. The thread originaltor's test covers testing the coil, tfi icm, pip, plugs,wires etc, which I still need to do, hence why I am here to learn how. I can see where this test procedure might be of benefit to me, along with a few other checks too, such as fuel pressure, vacuum leaks, broken computer, sensor, module wires etc. I don't think intermittent stuff like I am experiencing was specifically tested for. I also don't see searching for wiring problems such as frayed, grounding out, or even severed wires that cause loss of signals from the ICM or PIP, coil,mentioned yet. Granted I am sure parts failures are commonly known. But, as I once found bare exposed wires on my 5.0 Mustang caused the brake lights not to work. I found it was not the Brake switch or lights themselves as I hooked up a manual switch and knew I had current from the fuse box on back, but somewhere between the battery and the fusebox had a loss of continuity. I traced continuity and found bare wires passing through the firewall.

Anyway, I am anxious to get my Spark Tester and to perform these tests to check the Plugs, Wires, Coil, ICM, PIP as spelled out above.

 

[untrainable11]

Loved this nice and easy to follow. Found my AutoZone module was bad, and replaced with same. That module lasted about a year, so I installed a motorcraft module, now it won't start. Swapped back starts up, got another motorcraft, same issue. T/S leads back to replace module, both are grey, pins are good and I load tested all wiring it's good.
Is there a difference in the way the modules are wired, or how they operate?