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member xl said:
Any idea, roughly, how much wire I need for this on a 95? (looking to order it from Ryan)
well, if you order from ryan it seems you will have everything show up ready to go, he does the work.
if you don't, just go to napa and get 3' or 4' of cable, it is $.50 a foot. get everything in place, cut your cable bits, solder on the copper connections, shrinkwrap, install, go wow the crowd with all the juice you are creating. btw, i did this on my 94.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
kemicalburns said:
Clarko i pm'd ya on this question but figured id aske here as well. would the 8.25 fit a 390 or the 7" . im sure the back would need to be clocked and this would be V belt of course.
Yes, here are some pics of an 8.25 on a '67 390 Hi-Po.


The clocking was dead on out of the 92 3.0 Taurus I got it out of.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
lightnin said:
Hey Clarko can you get me a better pic of your alt bracket. My smog pump bracket won't allow it to swing over.
Sh*t, I dont have a V-Belt small block at my disposal to show you how to do it. Looking at your pics, ya might want to get an 8.25 inch eared 3G.
 
That is a real great writeup. I picked up my wide mount 3g from a 96 Lincoln Mark VIII with a 4.6L engine in it. Cost from the Pick and Pull was $17.00. I then purchased bearings, alternator harness, brushes and regulator, and custom cut 2ga cable from Ryan. The only problems I had with the installation was the mating of the #2 lug and the extender post which can be solved by reforming the lug a little or removing the little ears off the extender post. The other problem was with the tensioner bracket on my truck which had a 1/4 inch offset for the thinner mount of the 1G. That was resolved by reshaping the tensioner bracket.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
FCguy said:
Hey guys. I have a 92' bronco (the odd out year it seems) w/ a 302. Im planning on getting a junkyard 130 amp out of a mustang or other aplicable car. I have three questions.

1: will the 200 amp kit from the ford EFI website work with this alt?

2: If the 200 amp kit fits will the factory regulator be able to handle it when its under very low loads?

3: Will I need a new pully for the new alt or can I use my old one. Either way whats the best size to run (my truck has never seen above 4.5k RPM... but for longevities sake would it be smart NOT to run the smallest size)
1: Yes.
2: Yes.
3:
Clarko said:
Pulleys: For pulleys, you can either re-use your old one, which sometimes you may need a very small washer to use as a spacer if it rubs in the 3G case at all, or you can get a different sized one.
 
FCguy said:
3: Will I need a new pully for the new alt or can I use my old one. Either way whats the best size to run (my truck has never seen above 4.5k RPM... but for longevities sake would it be smart NOT to run the smallest size)
If you are going to buy the 200A rectefier from Ryan, you can also buy a pully from him that fits properly without any additionsl hardware.
 
hey, i was just wondering about the pulley sizes, and just curious, what would the stock 93-96 3g have on it? what is the stock crank shaft pulley size, like 7 inches right??

:thumbup i've decided on the rectifier kit and ima try to get 200 amps:thumbup

ok, i went and pulled my 3g out of an exploder today, and i just went to advance to ahve it checked, they said they couldnt measure amps, but it put out 14 volts(battery) and 160 (starter). im not sure what started voltage is, but is that good? i know the 14 is fine. it has two holes, im sure of it, but its out of an older exploder, with the square headlights. like early 90's. The advance auto guys looked up the parts and said its 95 amps according to thier database, but it has two holes for sure. is it 95 or 135 amps??? i dont really know if i should trust those guys, but i just re-read the thread and it said the side mount 135 amp alternators didnt appear in exploders till 95.
 
96broncoman said:
ok, i went and pulled my 3g out of an exploder today, and i just went to advance to ahve it checked, they said they couldnt measure amps, but it put out 14 volts(battery) and 160 (starter). im not sure what started voltage is, but is that good? i know the 14 is fine. it has two holes, im sure of it, but its out of an older exploder, with the square headlights. like early 90's. The advance auto guys looked up the parts and said its 95 amps according to thier database, but it has two holes for sure. is it 95 or 135 amps??? i dont really know if i should trust those guys, but i just re-read the thread and it said the side mount 135 amp alternators didnt appear in exploders till 95.
This should answer your question.

match your alternator part number to one on the right side of the chart and that will tell you what it is. The part number is usually located on the little disc that covers the rear bearing.

Wnter the vehicle info and it will pull up a page with a list of alternators for an Explorer.
 
keggin said:
I think the formula on the first post is suppossed to be:

Alt RPM = Engine RPM x Crank Pulley Diameter Ă· Alt Pulley Diameter


Is it possible to remove the "rotor with coil and fans" assembly from the front case? I was trying to clean the 3G I got from the yard today, but that portion does not seem to want to come apart and I don't want to break something if it won't separate after it is assembled at the factory.
Yes, remove the pully then carefully press the shaft out of the bearing. While you are doing that, why don't you replace the bearings. They tend to wear unevenly due to pully tension in one direction all the time. If you can wiggle the shaft in the bearing, even a little, that is a sign of wear starting. Ryan sells the bearings and it wouldn't hurt to replace the regulator/brush assembly. Also, clean up the slip rings.

The front bearing is held in by a ring with 3 screws on the inside of the case so before you remove the old bearing remove the screws and ring. I believe Ryan has a picture of the parts breakdown on his sight. Use a bearing insertion tool or a socket that is large enough to fit on the outer race when installing a new one.

Good luck,

:thumbup
 
so would he just remove the pully off of his stock alt and have it put onto the 8.25 3G so it could retain the v belt setup or what pully would need to be used?

Thanks



Clarko said:
Yes, here are some pics of an 8.25 on a '67 390 Hi-Po.


The clocking was dead on out of the 92 3.0 Taurus I got it out of.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Travis, yeah that works, but you may need to slightly file the case for the pulley to fit perfectly; I did on that one. You may want to find the smallest v-belt alt pulley you can find for higher output from the alt as long as you wouldn't overdrive it; I did that on that 390, too.
Lol, I just noticed how old that pic is. Now there's a new custom fan/rad shroud, MSD ignition, big K&N, FRPP plug wires, and some misc stuff.
 
kemicalburns said:
so would he just remove the pully off of his stock alt and have it put onto the 8.25 3G so it could retain the v belt setup or what pully would need to be used?

Thanks
If you use the old pully off the 1G, it will rub on the case. Some guys have used a 5/8 washer and Ryan sells a pully that has the spacing built into it. I didn't think about what Clarko did, but if you file the case try not to get the filings inside. They could cause problems.

:thumbup
 
nice plug, i keep needing to swing by the jive yard and see what they have. my 95amp just aint cutting it.
 
aurgathor said:
I see that the 130A alternator can be upgraded with a new rectifier for 200A. Is there such a rectifier upgrade for the 95A alternator? How does this rectifier upgrade work? Only thing I can think of is diodes with lower Vf, like Schottky vs. Si.
I would assume that the only reason Ryan sells one for the large case side mount is because that is the only one you can do it on. http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=67
 
Aikidoka said:
I would assume that the only reason Ryan sells one for the large case side mount is because that is the only one you can do it on. http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=67
He sells one that will fit all large case 3Gs, not only the side mount ones.

The small case alts are upgradable to ~150amps but I don't know where to get a rectifier and IMO is not worth it when the large case can be had so cheap. Plus the "upgraded" small case ones can get very hot.
 
3G = 3rd Generation, 4G = 4th Generation, and so on.
 
my 3g swap went real easy on my 89' and i ended up using the negative battery cable off my junk bronco for the charge wire(it had the crimped end!)

With all my headlights on high, my 4 "fog" lights, my system, my electric fan, all on,at idle it dosent skip a beat.

With the old alt, with my headlights and fog lights on at idle, the charge would go into the red!
 
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