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3G Alternator Upgrade Interchange Facts. If you're thinking 3G read here. *Updated 01/21*

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488K views 426 replies 159 participants last post by  Tracy1705  
#1 · (Edited)
PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE POST BEFORE ASKING QUESTIONS!!!

Had to start this thread since there is much misinformation and confusion about the 3G alternator upgrade. This is not an install thread, just a guide on where to get the alt you need, a wiring diagram, and pulley sizing. Most photos and some of the text is courtesy of Ryan McCormick of FordFuelInjection.com. Hope he's well, wherever he is.

Why go 3G?
Because your factory alternator is barely adequate for your truck, stock.
Added off-road lights or a big stereo?
You need a bigger alternator!
Need me to show you?
Image

And that's alternator RPM, not engine rpm. The alt spins much faster than the engine.
Alt RPM = Engine RPM x Crank Pulley Diameter Ă· Alt Pulley Diameter.
87-92 is the blue line.
93-96 is the green line.
78-86 is less than the blue line.

There are 3 different mounting styles for the 3G alternator that can be used as an upgrade on other vehicles:

If you have a 66-86, anything with v-belts, or a 87-98 300 (4.9L) or 460 (7.5L): you'll need a Pivot Mount w/ 8.25” ear spacing alternator. Order an alt for a 93-96 E150 with a 4.9 and the High Output or Rear A/C option. On your v-belt truck, you may also be able to use one that fits the 87-92 serpentine setup (Pivot Mount w/ 7.00” ear spacing) but some may have fitment issues with smog pump location. The Pivot Mount w/ 8.25” ear spacing can be swapped into:
1966-1986 V-belt Mustangs
1966-1987 V-Belt Broncos/E-Series/F-series
1992-1997 4.9L & 7.5L Bronco/F-Series/E-Series
Other V-belt vehicles that can adjust to an 8.25” wide Pivot mount alternator

A wide-eared Taurus alt will ONLY fit a 302 or 351W if it is a V-belt setup since it's wider than a serpentine one.
Image


If you have an 87-92 302 (5.0L) or 351W (5.8L): you have a 2G alternator.
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This is an early serpentine style. This can only be replaced with a Pivot Mount w/ 7.00” ear spacing alternator. Minor bracket clearancing will be required.
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This can be found in the following cars:
93-99 narrow-eared non-DOHC Taurus
94-95 V8 Mustang
94-00 V6 Mustang
94-97 V6 T-Bird/Cougar
95-98 Windstar
91-94 V6 Lincoln Continental.

The early serpentine car and truck alts on Ryan's site are interchangable but the plug and charge stud are clocked differently to fit the wiring to the bracket better. The Pivot Mount w/ 7.00” ear spacing can be swapped into:
1987-1992 Broncos/E-Series/F-series
1966-1995 Mustangs
Other vehicles that use a 7.00” wide Pivot mount alternator

If you have a 93-96 302 (5.0L) or 351W (5.8L): you have a Side Mount 3G already but a 95 amp one. You DO NOT need to get a wiring harness, as since you already have a 3G, it's plug and play!!! I strongly urge you to get a larger charge cable and megafuse though.
For a 130 amp, you can get that for a:
93-96 V8 Econoline with Rear Air Conditioning or the High Output Alternator options
97-03 V6 Econoline E-Series or F-150
95-01 4.0 V6 Explorer or Ranger

at your local parts house for less than eBay.
You'll need the one for late serp. vehicles.
The Side Mount can be swapped into:
1993-1997 5.0L, 5.8L & 7.5L Bronco/F-Series/E-Series
Other vehicles that use a Side Mount alternator
Or you could try to find one like that at a junkyard.
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A Note On Belt Squeal: Some 3G alternators create an extra large load on the belt upon engine startup. There is a later part number soft-start regulator that you can be on the look out for. Read more about this here. Thanks to Fodder, SRWillis, and silver70 for the heads up.

Plug Clocking: Each style may have the rear plugs clocked 3 different ways to fit their various vehicles better. They will still fit no matter the clocking but you can remove the case bolts, and reclock the rear to get your optimum position.

Wiring Harness and Charge Cables: The wiring is very simple. I prefer to grab the harness off of certain donor vehicles and then modifying them if they are in great condition. 94-95 Mustang GT's are my favorite as the charge cable is a great length. Many harnesses are available online if you can't find one that suits your needs.
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When you swap to a 130 or higher amp 3G, although you do not NEED a larger charge cable such as a 2 Gauge, it is a great idea. Smaller wires/cables cannot always handle such a load and they tend to heat up, some to the point of melting the wire and could start a fire. ALWAYS make sure you use a megafuse rated at least 15-25 amps above your alternator amperage.

Pulleys: For pulleys, you can either re-use your old one, which sometimes you may need a very small washer to use as a spacer if it rubs in the 3G case at all, or you can get a different sized one. It all depends on your needs. A smaller pulley will spin the alternator faster at idle to create maximum output. A larger pulley will allow the engine to rev higher without driving the alternator to fast. Large 3G alternators are safe to ~15,000RPM max. Again, Alt RPM = Engine RPM x Crank Pulley Diameter Ă· Alt Pulley Diameter.

Factory Carb Users: If you have a Factory Ford carburetor (Holley model 4180) with a wire that connects directly to your 1G alt to your electric choke, get a 12 volt electric choke for a Holley 4160, P/N 45-223, and swap it out. Then wire the new choke to 12 volts with key on.

This post will continually be edited as information pops up. Please post any errors you find so this can be THE thread for 3G interchange information.
 
#26 ·
FCguy said:
3: Will I need a new pully for the new alt or can I use my old one. Either way whats the best size to run (my truck has never seen above 4.5k RPM... but for longevities sake would it be smart NOT to run the smallest size)
If you are going to buy the 200A rectefier from Ryan, you can also buy a pully from him that fits properly without any additionsl hardware.
 
#27 · (Edited by Moderator)
hey, i was just wondering about the pulley sizes, and just curious, what would the stock 93-96 3g have on it? what is the stock crank shaft pulley size, like 7 inches right??

:thumbup i've decided on the rectifier kit and ima try to get 200 amps:thumbup

ok, i went and pulled my 3g out of an exploder today, and i just went to advance to ahve it checked, they said they couldnt measure amps, but it put out 14 volts(battery) and 160 (starter). im not sure what started voltage is, but is that good? i know the 14 is fine. it has two holes, im sure of it, but its out of an older exploder, with the square headlights. like early 90's. The advance auto guys looked up the parts and said its 95 amps according to thier database, but it has two holes for sure. is it 95 or 135 amps??? i dont really know if i should trust those guys, but i just re-read the thread and it said the side mount 135 amp alternators didnt appear in exploders till 95.
 
#28 · (Edited by Moderator)
96broncoman said:
ok, i went and pulled my 3g out of an exploder today, and i just went to advance to ahve it checked, they said they couldnt measure amps, but it put out 14 volts(battery) and 160 (starter). im not sure what started voltage is, but is that good? i know the 14 is fine. it has two holes, im sure of it, but its out of an older exploder, with the square headlights. like early 90's. The advance auto guys looked up the parts and said its 95 amps according to thier database, but it has two holes for sure. is it 95 or 135 amps??? i dont really know if i should trust those guys, but i just re-read the thread and it said the side mount 135 amp alternators didnt appear in exploders till 95.
This should answer your question.

match your alternator part number to one on the right side of the chart and that will tell you what it is. The part number is usually located on the little disc that covers the rear bearing.

Wnter the vehicle info and it will pull up a page with a list of alternators for an Explorer.
 
#29 ·
keggin said:
I think the formula on the first post is suppossed to be:

Alt RPM = Engine RPM x Crank Pulley Diameter Ă· Alt Pulley Diameter


Is it possible to remove the "rotor with coil and fans" assembly from the front case? I was trying to clean the 3G I got from the yard today, but that portion does not seem to want to come apart and I don't want to break something if it won't separate after it is assembled at the factory.
Yes, remove the pully then carefully press the shaft out of the bearing. While you are doing that, why don't you replace the bearings. They tend to wear unevenly due to pully tension in one direction all the time. If you can wiggle the shaft in the bearing, even a little, that is a sign of wear starting. Ryan sells the bearings and it wouldn't hurt to replace the regulator/brush assembly. Also, clean up the slip rings.

The front bearing is held in by a ring with 3 screws on the inside of the case so before you remove the old bearing remove the screws and ring. I believe Ryan has a picture of the parts breakdown on his sight. Use a bearing insertion tool or a socket that is large enough to fit on the outer race when installing a new one.

Good luck,

:thumbup
 
#30 ·
so would he just remove the pully off of his stock alt and have it put onto the 8.25 3G so it could retain the v belt setup or what pully would need to be used?

Thanks



Clarko said:
Yes, here are some pics of an 8.25 on a '67 390 Hi-Po.


The clocking was dead on out of the 92 3.0 Taurus I got it out of.
 
#31 ·
Travis, yeah that works, but you may need to slightly file the case for the pulley to fit perfectly; I did on that one. You may want to find the smallest v-belt alt pulley you can find for higher output from the alt as long as you wouldn't overdrive it; I did that on that 390, too.
Lol, I just noticed how old that pic is. Now there's a new custom fan/rad shroud, MSD ignition, big K&N, FRPP plug wires, and some misc stuff.
 
#32 ·
kemicalburns said:
so would he just remove the pully off of his stock alt and have it put onto the 8.25 3G so it could retain the v belt setup or what pully would need to be used?

Thanks
If you use the old pully off the 1G, it will rub on the case. Some guys have used a 5/8 washer and Ryan sells a pully that has the spacing built into it. I didn't think about what Clarko did, but if you file the case try not to get the filings inside. They could cause problems.

:thumbup
 
#36 ·
aurgathor said:
I see that the 130A alternator can be upgraded with a new rectifier for 200A. Is there such a rectifier upgrade for the 95A alternator? How does this rectifier upgrade work? Only thing I can think of is diodes with lower Vf, like Schottky vs. Si.
I would assume that the only reason Ryan sells one for the large case side mount is because that is the only one you can do it on. http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=67
 
#37 · (Edited by Moderator)
Aikidoka said:
I would assume that the only reason Ryan sells one for the large case side mount is because that is the only one you can do it on. http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=67
He sells one that will fit all large case 3Gs, not only the side mount ones.

The small case alts are upgradable to ~150amps but I don't know where to get a rectifier and IMO is not worth it when the large case can be had so cheap. Plus the "upgraded" small case ones can get very hot.
 
#39 ·
3G = 3rd Generation, 4G = 4th Generation, and so on.
 
#40 ·
my 3g swap went real easy on my 89' and i ended up using the negative battery cable off my junk bronco for the charge wire(it had the crimped end!)

With all my headlights on high, my 4 "fog" lights, my system, my electric fan, all on,at idle it dosent skip a beat.

With the old alt, with my headlights and fog lights on at idle, the charge would go into the red!
 
#41 ·
OK so going thru these threads I see that a 3G is an excellent alternator and for a 1986 302EFI DD if I wanted to upgrade I could use a 3g 130a with an 8.25" ear spacing with V-belt correct? Is this an easy swap, do you have to change connectors etc.
What do they cost new vs boneyard rebuild?

Thanks

:enforce :enforce :enforce
 
#42 ·
I get my junkyard 3Gs for $25. No returns though. Get the connector from it with a foot of wire or so. You'll find the wiring diagram for it around here.
 
#46 ·
Wow $25? that stinks. I just picked up a 3G for $50 at the yard. Oh well, not a lot of places to go out here and it still beats $150 off ebay. I took it by napa and they couldn't give me an amp reading but they said it put out 14.8 volts. I'm a-okay with that. By the way it came out of a 92 (I believe) Mercury Sable. Evidently a Sable and Taurus are almost the same thing... Never new that before. Going to put it in tomorrow I think.
 
#47 ·
JKossarides said:
Not at all Bro! I just skimmed it sorry, it's an excellent thread. I'm getting that this 3g is excellent if you want to add lights or winches etc but what about usage for a DD do I need a 3g?
My headlights were dim with the heater, stereo (just an aftermarket head unit), windshield wipers, and so fourth on. So I'd recommend one, plus it'll run cooler if it's not being maxed out at all and give it a long life.

Pantsman said:
Wow $25? that stinks. I just picked up a 3G for $50 at the yard. Oh well, not a lot of places to go out here and it still beats $150 off ebay. I took it by napa and they couldn't give me an amp reading but they said it put out 14.8 volts. I'm a-okay with that. By the way it came out of a 92 (I believe) Mercury Sable. Evidently a Sable and Taurus are almost the same thing... Never new that before. Going to put it in tomorrow I think.
Yeah, a Merc Sable and Ford Taurus are the exact same car.

Graydevil said:
OK i went out and got a 3g at the bone yard and had it tested 14.8 volts and 130 amps I want to convert it to a 200 amp what is the best thing to clean it with when i pull it apart break cleaner or what kind of solvent?
I'd say Brake Parts cleaner to clean out the inside of the Alt. I recommend replacing the Regulator/Brushes if they look worn as well.


So Sorry for not replying sooner, I didn't get the notice that there were responces.
 
#48 ·
Ok, I've read the whole thread, so let me see if I've got this straight.

For my '90 351 Bronco, I need to get the 7" 3G alternator (from ryan, with the proper bolt and tapping) and small pully, the charge cable w/ mega-fuse, and the new harness? The old harness isn't compatable? If I get all that together, then I'm ready to go, right? ...just start bolting it all in?