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Interesting. I will take a closer look when I get off work. I did back into the driveway.

P.S. I had to google ttb



I took a quick look last night and couldn't see (easily) what you were referring to. There didn't seem to be anything I could turn when looking from under the front bumper. I was, however, using a Coleman lantern in the snow. I will check again later today.
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I should typically be able to turn that by hand with 4x4 off and hubs unlocked? Or should I need to use a pry bar? gently, of course
With the hubs unlocked and the truck in 2wd you should be able to turn the front driveshaft by hand and see the ujoints on both sides turning. Lock the hubs then turn the driveshaft and see if they are both spinning. Likely only one will spin, that's the one with the bad hub. You can see both sides from the back while under the vehicle.
 
When was the last time you changed (if ever) your transfer case and front diff fluid? And if it ends up being the hubs, just get the Warn Premiums and forget any issues. Those things are bullet proof and engage so solidly!
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
When was the last time you changed (if ever) your transfer case and front diff fluid?
I have never changed the front differential oil. I haven't had it very long. I assume it has not been changed in a long time since the previous owner had it sitting for several years. I can easily hand-turn the front drive-shaft and the motor appears to engage/disengage, so wouldn't that indicate that it's at least somewhat lubricated?
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Still haven't had a chance to get underneath because of the weather. I drove it to work today (I try to at least once a week). I'm really starting to notice a lean to the right, though. I doubt it's related to the hubs, but who knows...
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Driving or just the front nose? Another problem area with these year bronco's and f-series trucks are the core supports rotting out under the battery tray. the rear support and wheel wells are next followed by your cracked rain gutters leaking water into the cab and causing some issues on the floor area below. If your area uses a lot of sat the rear leaf spring hangers are prone to fail sooner or later to. The way they dip down in the center is a catch all for salt and moister and will rot out fast. Next thing you know your driving along and the spring tries to go through the floor like mine did.

Sorry about the 5 min ramble....
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
I really only notice it when it's parked. I wouldn't be surprised if the spring supports are rotting in the front - pretty much everything under there looks horrible. The leaf spring mounts have been changed not too long ago because they look brand new and still have part number/bar code stickers on them.

I think I change my mind every day whether or not I want to just cut my losses and sell it. Not having 4-wheel drive prety much defeats my whole reason for having it.
 
Still haven't had a chance to get underneath because of the weather. I drove it to work today (I try to at least once a week). I'm really starting to notice a lean to the right, though. I doubt it's related to the hubs, but who knows...
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Could be body mounts, leaf spring bushings, rotted shackles/shackle hangers. 1 step at a time. Have you tried what I mentioned?
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
I just locked both hubs, 4x4 off, turned the front drive shaft, and the driver's side universal joint spins freely. The passenger side is locking as expected. I assume my next step is to replace the driver's side something...
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
I think I have it fixed, at least temporarily. Since I kind of have a general idea of how they work now, I installed the hub backward - as in I have the spring pushing the gear into place always. The drive shaft is completely locked now! For the first time, I can actually feel the 4-wheel drive and it was amazing.

I'm not really sure if this is something that needs to be correctly fixed immediately, but I have an overwhelming feeling of excitement. Thanks everyone for all your help!

Sorry for the triple-post

EDIT: Now that I think about it, that snap ring that didn't seem to have a place was fitted loosely around the spindle. I'm now starting to think that it was blocking the gear completely from moving in and engaging.
 
I think I have it fixed, at least temporarily. Since I kind of have a general idea of how they work now, I installed the hub backward - as in I have the spring pushing the gear into place always. The drive shaft is completely locked now! For the first time, I can actually feel the 4-wheel drive and it was amazing.

I'm not really sure if this is something that needs to be correctly fixed immediately, but I have an overwhelming feeling of excitement. Thanks everyone for all your help!
Do NOT Leave it like that. It will spin the front axles full time, which you don't want happening, it will cause excessive vibration and unnecessary Wear. And You don't want to be driving on pavement in 4wd either.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
We had a warm day today (35F and sunny), so I had some time to experiment. I've had the hub permanently locked for the last few weeks, driving it only when the roads are bad - which has been about once/week.

I took the hub apart today and re-assembled it the correct way (spring in first, then the gear). I have a 5 foot snow bank in my driveway to push against to test 4x4 now. I pushed against it and it sounded like the clanking of a roller coaster. I took it back apart and flipped the gear around; I noticed the inner teeth are only on one side. Pushed against the snow bank again. Fixed! I tested dis-engaging and re-engaging them and they work as expected.

The problem this whole time was the inner teeth being faced toward the outside of the wheel instead of toward the axle.

Again, thanks for all the help.
 
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