Agreed

 

Here is the front drive shaft fully compressed.



Here is the rear fully extended. Remember this is a nine inch rear.

 

I decided to have my pilot machined down ans a press on bushing made to extend the pilot. Here is the bushing being made. It will add 3/8" to the length of the pilot.



This is the adapter he made to go inside the tube so he wouldn't damage the outer surface.



You can see he has turned down the diameter of the Pilot. He is going to press the bushing on.



A couple more pics



I also dropped the front driveshaft off to be cut and balanced. They said $50 to do it. I've decided this is the way to go for now. I feel this will act as a sheer pin for the front axle. I just think the u-joints in the front drive shaft are tiny. I haven't given them the final length yet. I still need to fully compress the suspension to verify that length. It looks like it will be the shortest compressed and the rear seems to be the shortest at full droop.

 

Here is the finished product.

 

I can turn the engine over now but there is no play between the TC and the flywheel. I was pretty bummed at this point. Mind you I am doing this myself so disassembling and reassembling is a lot more difficult that it used to be. Anyway, I pulled it back apart checked the pilot to make sure it wasn't buried and binding in the crank. It was not. It say it's perfect. Sooooo that leaves the, as Hillbilly stated, goofy assed threaded things are too long. I verified this by using grade 8 1/2" washers as spacers for the bell housing. These are slightly thinner than the engine spacer plate which I may reinstall. You can see the gold color in these pics



Here is the result. I threaded one TC nut just to touch the flex plate. I then tightened the rest. Here is how much play I have now. Funny it's the exact thickness of the washers I installed.


I'm going to install the engine spacer/ dust cover and all should be good.

If I am someone looking to do this swap and reading what I am doing to make it work, I probably would have punted on the idea. I'm way to deep now so I hope it's everything I am expecting.

 

I made a bone head mistake. I put the spacer plate on and got everything bolted down. I have the correct amount of play between the TC and the flex plate. The problem is as I was tightening the last TC nut I noticed the starter hole didn't line up the Trans adapter corrects the starter location. It never crossed my mind until I glanced over at it. I said a few choice words then relaxed on my creeper for a minute. I grabbed my phone to take a pic of my error so you all don't do the same. Here is the spacer installed.



Here is the depth of the new pilot extension. You can see the wear marks to tell how far it inserted in the crank.



This is pics of the f'up.



I like having the spacer because is closes in the flex plate. It looks like I will be able to use the original dust cover at the bottom.



One of the many things I don't like about this adapter kit is the way it leaves gaps at the top and nearly 1/3 of the flex plate exposed at the bottom. The spacer plate closes everything off.











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Finally finished with the install. I still have to figure out a shifter and buy the controller. I ended up cutting the starter area away on the spacer. I smashed a piece of fuel tube in the gap at the top of the adapter. I will cut some sheet metal to make a panel to close in the bottom. I also want to make a cover for the starter area. If you do this swap make sure you take more time than I did and slowly remove material from the bell housing. You could make this fit right to the starter. Here are a few more pics.

I copied these from my build thread to keep all the trans info in one place. I'm jumping around doing other stuff that would convalute the trans info. I'm going to move on to other things on my build. When I do things that include or effect the trans I will copy it here.

 

That motor plate you used was it for a manual or auto transmission? They are different as the starter location is different.

 

I have no idea. I found it in the corner of the shop. If I was going to bet I would say auto. Either way it needs to be removed because it shims the starter back away from the flywheel. The block adapter was designed to have the starter bolted directly to it.

 

Time to provide some transmission cooler info.

Warning!! Do NOT plumb your 6R80 thru the cooler built into the radiator. It restricts the flow to the transmission. Also there is always the possibility of the coolant leaking into the transmission. Minimum coolant line size is 1/2 inch or -8 AN.

Selecting a cooler for the 6R80 is bit more complex than for your C6 or AOD. No cooler with push on barb or pipe fittings are going to cut it. You need -8 AN fittings. Cooling the 6R80 isn't cheap. Expect to spend $400 to $600 on cooling components.

First you need an adapter at the transmission for fittings.
There are a couple of good ones and a handful of marginal ones. I disregarded ones that used pipe fittings like Power By the Hours adapter.
Here are my two favorites. Either one will work, choice of which one is really based on which one is in stock.

First choice is from Fat Fender Garage, I like it because it has the temp sensor port built into the outlet port. It reduces some extra plumbing and an adapter. It is a beautifully machined and appears to be all one piece. Not a bunch of separate pieces, fittings and brackets. Reduces the amount of point of failures.

FFG Coyote Swap Transmission Cooler Port Kit - Fat Fender Garage

Fittings for this product are on currently on backorder. Give us a call to reserve a kit today. FFG transmission cooler port is black anodized and mounts directly to the 6r80 and 10R80 transmissions. This product makes it super easy to connect your transmission cooler to the transmission. We...

www.fatfendergarage.com

You want to select the "Cool-Sensor Port and Temp Sensor" I do not like their cooler because it is just a tube and fin type cooler and has brazed fittings. I would expect better of a cooler for the money.

My 2nd choice would be the cooler adapter manifold from Bowler Transmissions. Also a nice billet machined piece. It may or may not use O'ring AN adapter fitting. Pics show it both ways.This is better than the ones that use pipe fittings. It will require a temp sensor port adapter I will get to later.

Bowler - 6R80E / 10R80 Transmission Cooler Manifold

Do you own a Ford 6R80E or a 10R80 and want to ditch those ugly solid tube cooling lines? Or if you're transplanting that transmission into another vehicle, this is the solution for you! This cooler line manifold block allows you to convert over and use any type of flexible line with a -8 AN...

shop.bowlertransmissions.com

This adapter will require an additional fitting to control the cooling fan. You will need to select 8AN as the size and either 180 or 190 as the temp. Myself I would pick 190. It must be mounted to the lower fitting at the transmission or the same line at the cooler. It should be sensing fluid out temperature.

Inline 10A, 12V Thermal Switch for AN Lines

Inline thermal switch may be used to activate cooling fans or circulation pumps Rated for 10A at 12V Higher amperate devices require a relay

www.improvedracing.com

Now onto the cooler. Some may cringe at my recommendation and their butt cheeks may clamp shut. You have made it this far and shelled out significant dollar amount already. No need to ruin it with a cheaper inferior cooler.

This is the cooler you really need. you need the 500 Series 20 Row with the fitting adapters for the -8AN fittings. Also you will not need mounting brackets, but you will need the 520 Fan shroud with the 9 inch suction or pusher fan depending on where you are mounting the cooler. Go ahead an order the Spal fan relay kit it will help protect your temp sensor. One feature I like is the fittings are on the side so makes plumbing much neater. Not to scare you but I came in at $565.

MHX Series High-Efficiency Oil Cooler Configurator

Use this configurator to customize your Improved Racing MHX Series Oil Cooler setup. Choose compatible fittings, mounting brackets, fan kits, and other accessories. MHX Series oil coolers are more compact, lighter, and have a lower air side pressure drop than stacked plate coolers. Lifetime...

www.improvedracing.com

For plumbing I have nothing but great things to say about XRP ProPlus XK hose with aramid braid. It is smooth bore PTFE with convolutes in the outside of the PTFE tube under the braid. The smooth bore means more flow and with the convolutions on the outside of the tubing it is still flexible without kinking. You don't need crimp fittings. Use the XRP Race Reusable fittings. Never mix brands of hoses and fittings. Everyone has slightly different specs. We have tested this hose on our fuel pump flow bench at the shop and it really does outflow other brands.

XRP Race Crimp | AN Plumbing

XRP's industry leading smooth bore PTFE crimp hose end for use with HS-79 Hose and Pro Plus hose.

www.anplumbing.com

AN Plumbing - XRP Fittings | AN Adapters, PTFE Hoses & Ends | AN Hoses | AN Plumbing

ANplumbing.com Largest online supplier of XRP & Earls AN Fittings. Search our huge inventory of AN Adapters, AN Hose Ends, AN Hose, and accessories for racing, marine, and aerospace applications.

www.anplumbing.com

 

Time to provide some transmission cooler info.

Warning!! Do NOT plumb your 6R80 thru the cooler built into the radiator. It restricts the flow to the transmission. Also there is always the possibility of the coolant leaking into the transmission. Minimum coolant line size is 1/2 inch or -8 AN.

Selecting a cooler for the 6R80 is bit more complex than for your C6 or AOD. No cooler with push on barb or pipe fittings are going to cut it. You need -8 AN fittings. Cooling the 6R80 isn't cheap. Expect to spend $400 to $600 on cooling components.

First you need an adapter at the transmission for fittings.
There are a couple of good ones and a handful of marginal ones. I disregarded ones that used pipe fittings like Power By the Hours adapter.
Here are my two favorites. Either one will work, choice of which one is really based on which one is in stock.

First choice is from Fat Fender Garage, I like it because it has the temp sensor port built into the outlet port. It reduces some extra plumbing and an adapter. It is a beautifully machined and appears to be all one piece. Not a bunch of separate pieces, fittings and brackets. Reduces the amount of point of failures.

FFG Coyote Swap Transmission Cooler Port Kit - Fat Fender Garage

Fittings for this product are on currently on backorder. Give us a call to reserve a kit today. FFG transmission cooler port is black anodized and mounts directly to the 6r80 and 10R80 transmissions. This product makes it super easy to connect your transmission cooler to the transmission. We...

www.fatfendergarage.com

You want to select the "Cool-Sensor Port and Temp Sensor" I do not like their cooler because it is just a tube and fin type cooler and has brazed fittings. I would expect better of a cooler for the money.

My 2nd choice would be the cooler adapter manifold from Bowler Transmissions. Also a nice billet machined piece. It may or may not use O'ring AN adapter fitting. Pics show it both ways.This is better than the ones that use pipe fittings. It will require a temp sensor port adapter I will get to later.

Bowler - 6R80E / 10R80 Transmission Cooler Manifold

Do you own a Ford 6R80E or a 10R80 and want to ditch those ugly solid tube cooling lines? Or if you're transplanting that transmission into another vehicle, this is the solution for you! This cooler line manifold block allows you to convert over and use any type of flexible line with a -8 AN...

shop.bowlertransmissions.com

This adapter will require an additional fitting to control the cooling fan. You will need to select 8AN as the size and either 180 or 190 as the temp. Myself I would pick 190. It must be mounted to the lower fitting at the transmission or the same line at the cooler. It should be sensing fluid out temperature.

Inline 10A, 12V Thermal Switch for AN Lines

Inline thermal switch may be used to activate cooling fans or circulation pumps Rated for 10A at 12V Higher amperate devices require a relay

www.improvedracing.com

Now onto the cooler. Some may cringe at my recommendation and their butt cheeks may clamp shut. You have made it this far and shelled out significant dollar amount already. No need to ruin it with a cheaper inferior cooler.

This is the cooler you really need. you need the 500 Series 20 Row with the fitting adapters for the -8AN fittings. Also you will not need mounting brackets, but you will need the 520 Fan shroud with the 9 inch suction or pusher fan depending on where you are mounting the cooler. Go ahead an order the Spal fan relay kit it will help protect your temp sensor. One feature I like is the fittings are on the side so makes plumbing much neater. Not to scare you but I came in at $565.

MHX Series High-Efficiency Oil Cooler Configurator

Use this configurator to customize your Improved Racing MHX Series Oil Cooler setup. Choose compatible fittings, mounting brackets, fan kits, and other accessories. MHX Series oil coolers are more compact, lighter, and have a lower air side pressure drop than stacked plate coolers. Lifetime...

www.improvedracing.com

For plumbing I have nothing but great things to say about XRP ProPlus XK hose with aramid braid. It is smooth bore PTFE with convolutes in the outside of the PTFE tube under the braid. The smooth bore means more flow and with the convolutions on the outside of the tubing it is still flexible without kinking. You don't need crimp fittings. Use the XRP Race Reusable fittings. Never mix brands of hoses and fittings. Everyone has slightly different specs. We have tested this hose on our fuel pump flow bench at the shop and it really does outflow other brands.

XRP Race Crimp | AN Plumbing

XRP's industry leading smooth bore PTFE crimp hose end for use with HS-79 Hose and Pro Plus hose.

www.anplumbing.com

AN Plumbing - XRP Fittings | AN Adapters, PTFE Hoses & Ends | AN Hoses | AN Plumbing

ANplumbing.com Largest online supplier of XRP & Earls AN Fittings. Search our huge inventory of AN Adapters, AN Hose Ends, AN Hose, and accessories for racing, marine, and aerospace applications.

www.anplumbing.com

What do you think about this cooler? 30 row.

Derale Cooling Products 15870 Derale Hyper-Cool Extreme Remote Fluid Coolers with Fan | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Derale Hyper-Cool Extreme Remote Fluid Coolers with Fan with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Fluid Coolers at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

The 6R80 has an internal thermostat for cooler bypass. I has a major flaw and everyone I know that is building these transmissions are eliminating the thermostat.
The flaw is when the thermostat fails it fails in the closed position meaning that there is no fluid going to the cooler resulting in a ruined transmission. This is the reason for the temperature controlled fan on the cooler.
There are several bypass kits on the market any of them will work.
The most common is the Superior Transmission Parts STL009 Sure Cool bypass control valve. Not expensive about $40

Superior STL009 | Superior Transmission Parts - The problem solvers of the transmission industry

Online source for it.

Ford 6R60 6R75 6R80 Sure-Cool Thermal Control Bypass Valve by Superior (2006-2016)

Get Superior Transmission Parts STL009 Sure-Cool Thermal Control Bypass Valve for Ford 6R60, 6R75 and 6R80 transmission at Global Transmission Parts. Always in stock. Always priced right!

globaltransmissionparts.com

Installing does require removing the pan and filter plus the valve body assembly. Best to do it on the bench as there are parts that are held in by the valve body assembly. It is a simple drop in job once you drop the valve body assembly. You do not I repeat do not have to disassemble the valve body itself There are some seals that you need to be aware of. Now would be the perfect time to replace the seals that you can also get from Global. Nothing complicated you just to pay attention and move slowly. Not a job to be rush.
Here is a video that show what is actually required to do the job.

 

You are the man!

 

Thanks

 

If it is mounted in front of the condenser does it need a fan?

 

I found this picture. In an Off Road article. Maybe I can fit something or 2 something's in there.

 

The only way I think a cooler without a fan would work in this particular use would be if the top bottom and side gaps between radiator condenser and cooler were covered. It doesn't have to be fancy OEMs use rubber or plastic. Same material that is used in some front fender wells to fill the gap between fender well and frame.

Trust me I have been fighting the problem with my 79 with coolers for trans oil and pwr steering. I did find a nice power steering cooler that does make it easier.

The cooler and fan combo I posted above is only 4-1/4" thick so I think it would be fine behind the grill. The cooler itself is 9-3/4 tall by 11-1/2 wide add probably 3 inches to height for fan shroud flanges.

 

The only way I think a cooler without a fan would work in this particular use would be if the top bottom and side gaps between radiator condenser and cooler were covered. It doesn't have to be fancy OEMs use rubber or plastic. Same material that is used in some front fender wells to fill the gap between fender well and frame.

Trust me I have been fighting the problem with my 79 with coolers for trans oil and pwr steering. I did find a nice power steering cooler that does make it easier.

The cooler and fan combo I posted above is only 4-1/4" thick so I think it would be fine behind the grill. The cooler itself is 9-3/4 tall by 11-1/2 wide add probably 3 inches to height for fan shroud flanges.

Those dimensions sound like they will work. I have an aftermarket mesh grill that I will be using. That will give me more space.

 

Did we cover external filters yet? If not fire away. I'm trying to get parts together.

 

Nope we hadn't because they are not required. Remember you want no restriction in the cooler lines and that includes filters.

While we are on bits and pieces I want to add some items to the list. Pans and Dip Sticks.

There are a few different pan options out there. Anyone of them will work, it is more less personal preference. All of them add additional capacity which means better cooling. Although they are deeper they all keep the filter height the same as factory. None of them lower the filter.

First up and my choice is the pan from AFE. It adds 7 additional quart capacity. It also has a temperature sensor port which I recommend adding.
Transmission Pan, Machined Fins

Mag-Hytec adds 4 quarts with temperature sensor port.

#F6R80-F6R100 – Mag Hytec

mag-hytec.com

B&M adds 3.25 quarts and has a temperature sensor.

B&M 70394 B&M Hi-Tek Deep Transmission Pan - Black Aluminum

Our Hi-Tek deep transmission pans are constructed from A356-T6 aluminum and are cast with thick internal and external fins, adding additional strength and increased cooling properties. The deep pan design increases fluid capacity by 3.25-quarts over the stock O.E. pan. All these features...

www.holley.com

PML Covers adds 3 quarts and $45 charge to add temperature sensor port.

Ford 6R80, 6R100 Deep

Check out the deal on Ford 6R80, 6R100 Deep at PML YourCovers.com

yourcovers.com

You may have noticed the 6R80 doesn't have a traditional dipstick. Reason being that it is what is considered "Filled For Life" by Ford.
I highly recommend changing out the tiny dipstick on the side of the transmission. The only way to check fluid level when hot while running is either crawling under the vehicle or on a lift.
There are a few dipsticks options out there but I consider only one is practical for us.

B&M makes a nice locking dipstick that is firewall mounted.
I recommend following the directions on installing exactly no shortcuts. There is a possibility of hot trans fluid puking all over you. NEVER NEVER remove the factory dipstick when hot and not running. Fluid has expanded and will pour out of the dipstick hole. Only remove hot with engine running. Now you see why you need a firewall mounted dipstick.

B&M 22200 B&M Locking Automatic Transmission Dipstick & Tube - Billet Aluminum/Stainless Steel Braided

The B&M Locking Transmission Dipstick was designed to allow for a quick and easy check of the automatic transmission fluid level and fluid quality by the vehicle owner/operator without having to go to the dealership. Fits 2010-2023 Ford F-150 trucks with the 6R80, 10R80, 4R70E and 4R75E...

www.holley.com

 

I already have that dipstick. Got it for Christmas. I'm still undecided on the pan.

 

Have we covered everything? Is there anything else I need to consider?

 

What year is your 6r80 from? I know certain years have issues with the lead frame. 11-13 I believe, but could be others.

 

Yes there were problems with the lead frame (the plastic part that holds the sensors, range sensor, and contacts for solenoids). In particular it was the very early models pre 2011 with the ECM inside the transmission that had problems. Also there has been some updates to the lead frame for the 2011-2018 models. There was a recall or two to update the lead frame.

The Ford part number I have for the lead frame is al3z-7g276-d. There maybe later revisions I don't know. This part number is no longer available from Ford. Supposedly to order a lead frame assembly from a Ford Dealer you had to give him the VIN number of the vehicle which makes finding the right part difficult if you don't know the VIN.

There is one possible solution.
Dorman offers a lead frame for the 6R80. I don't know of anyone that has used one so like any aftermarket part supplier there is a risk. Notice Dorman calls it a conductor plate. I don't know if that is for legal reasons or not.

Dorman Products - 926-149

Transmission Conductor Plate

www.dormanproducts.com

There is an additional part I would recommend is the electrical connector sealing sleeve. Might be wise to replace it even if not replacing the lead frame.

Dorman Products - 926-149

Transmission Conductor Plate

www.dormanproducts.com

 

Tried two Dormans this week on the same vehicle with no success. Test drives go well, the next day they won't shift out of first. Had the recalls done by Ford and issue still exists. Live Data shows OSS fluctuating while driving steady.

 

At that point I would question the harness connector. Sometimes a leaky lead frame or sleeve will allow transmission fluid to seep into the connector. I would suggest using some brake cleaner and clean the connector. Having the same problem with 2 new lead frames suggest that there is problems with the connector. This can also cause fluctuations in the output shaft speed sensor.

 

2011 F-150

 

Mine is from a 2011 F-150.

 

Sleeve is not leaking and connector was cleaned, thoroughly inspected and reinstalled with dielectric grease after each lead frame replacement. Next move is trying to source an OEM replacement from Ford.

 

Contact Performance Automotive and explain to them what you have. You will face some serious challenges using the Performance Automotive swap kit just ask SHOme. Especially in the mating of the torque convertor to the flexplate and pilot adapter.

Performance Automatic

Transmissions, Racing Transmissions, C4 Transmissions, C6 Transmissions, AOD Transmissions, AODE Transmissions, 5r55 Transmissions, Valve Bodies, Bellhousings, Torque Converters, Flex Plates, Ford Transmissions, Chevy Transmissions, Chevrolet Transmissions, Chrysler Transmissions, Pro Touring...

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