If u put a test light on the battery charge cable from alternator to neg battery post with truck off should the test light come on?
Mine does.
Thx
Mine does.
Thx
brd
Yes it should... That positve lead from the alt goes to the Solenoid on the firewall and shares the same post as the + cable from the battery.
OK .
Something drained my battery last night......
If i disconnect my neg battery cable and put test light between neg post and neg cable with truck off should the test light ,light up?
Mine does...
The manual says this indicates a short somewhere..and that I should pull fuses till light goes out to find shorted circut..
Would u agree?
Something drained my battery last night......
If i disconnect my neg battery cable and put test light between neg post and neg cable with truck off should the test light ,light up?
Mine does...
The manual says this indicates a short somewhere..and that I should pull fuses till light goes out to find shorted circut..
Would u agree?
Im pulling 11 volts from my neg battery cable to the neg post when they are disconnected.
When i disconnect the hot, ring terminal from the starter solenoid that provides power to the harness that goes through the firewall powering all the truck the short goes away...didnt narrow it down to much...
Pull every fuse under the dash..still no change.
Disconnect all wires under the hood still no change.
Blown compressed air into all harnesses.
Smack ,push ,pull every wire under dash ....no change
Checked wires under truck,tranny ,tail lights ,head lights drive lights,,,nada
Was mudding the day b4 problem..
Any common places to look for the short?
Gotta get to work to...keep the kids feed.....
O and the dash volt gauge ammmeter ,whatever C/C,is now staying at 12oclock even with the battery disconnected,didnt used to do that....
Nothing to do with my alternator.or anything else i can find...:whiteflag
When i disconnect the hot, ring terminal from the starter solenoid that provides power to the harness that goes through the firewall powering all the truck the short goes away...didnt narrow it down to much...
Pull every fuse under the dash..still no change.
Disconnect all wires under the hood still no change.
Blown compressed air into all harnesses.
Smack ,push ,pull every wire under dash ....no change
Checked wires under truck,tranny ,tail lights ,head lights drive lights,,,nada
Was mudding the day b4 problem..
Any common places to look for the short?
Gotta get to work to...keep the kids feed.....
O and the dash volt gauge ammmeter ,whatever C/C,is now staying at 12oclock even with the battery disconnected,didnt used to do that....
Nothing to do with my alternator.or anything else i can find...:whiteflag
maybe something in your starter or starter solenoid? if you were mudding then it's the most likely place to get full of crap.
disconnect your starter positive wire from the starter itself, then check. If you pulled all the fuses then that's the only place it could be, other than the alternator being seriously busted and shorting out internally.
disconnect your starter positive wire from the starter itself, then check. If you pulled all the fuses then that's the only place it could be, other than the alternator being seriously busted and shorting out internally.
Starter is disconnected from selinoid
I can completely remove the starter solenoid circut and I still get 11 volts through the neg side..
My feeling was bad alternator,as the thread name says, so interesting you brought the alternator up . I had the alternator checked on autozone machine.The readings read, passed...Can the alternator,be shorted out yet still pass?Its a 1g 65 amp.
With all wires off the 1g i still get the 11 volts.Literally everything under the hood is disconnected right now.Even the fan wires and radio are out.The only thing under the hood hooked up is the positive battery to starter selinoid and the engine block to voltmeter to neg battery side.and the splice from the battery charge cable to the cab of the truck
I installed an electric fan the other day,same day as mudding and a thorough wash.
I want to go 3g but even with fireguys harness I cant figure out how to get power to the cab as that power with my 1g comes from a factory splice in the charge cable form alternator to battery/starter selinoid..but thats another day.
I can completely remove the starter solenoid circut and I still get 11 volts through the neg side..
My feeling was bad alternator,as the thread name says, so interesting you brought the alternator up . I had the alternator checked on autozone machine.The readings read, passed...Can the alternator,be shorted out yet still pass?Its a 1g 65 amp.
With all wires off the 1g i still get the 11 volts.Literally everything under the hood is disconnected right now.Even the fan wires and radio are out.The only thing under the hood hooked up is the positive battery to starter selinoid and the engine block to voltmeter to neg battery side.and the splice from the battery charge cable to the cab of the truck
I installed an electric fan the other day,same day as mudding and a thorough wash.
I want to go 3g but even with fireguys harness I cant figure out how to get power to the cab as that power with my 1g comes from a factory splice in the charge cable form alternator to battery/starter selinoid..but thats another day.
Do you have an electric clock or radio presets? These would remain on even though the truck is off.
You might pull each fuse again and then use a multimeter to check each fuse holder to ground for continuity, then look at that circuit to see if there should be continuity. If there is continuity to ground, then you can further search that circuit. Does everything in the truck work normally? I might also check for voltage at each fuse holder to identify which ones are always hot since that is probably the kind of circuit that would have a short that can drain the battery.
You might pull each fuse again and then use a multimeter to check each fuse holder to ground for continuity, then look at that circuit to see if there should be continuity. If there is continuity to ground, then you can further search that circuit. Does everything in the truck work normally? I might also check for voltage at each fuse holder to identify which ones are always hot since that is probably the kind of circuit that would have a short that can drain the battery.
You should be measuring AMPS, not volts. The voltage just tells you that something in the truck is on. It doesn't tell you how much power it's actually pulling from the battery. Even your radio memory runs on 12V, but it won't pull but maybe .2 Amps (probably less) -- not enough to drain your battery overnight.
Run your tests with the fuses again, but with your multimeter set to Amps. Pull the negative cable, then put the (+) probe on the cable. Put the (-) probe on the battery post. You'll likely see a big drop in the amperage when you pull one fuse, and that will tell you where the short is.
Run your tests with the fuses again, but with your multimeter set to Amps. Pull the negative cable, then put the (+) probe on the cable. Put the (-) probe on the battery post. You'll likely see a big drop in the amperage when you pull one fuse, and that will tell you where the short is.
http://www.bbbind.com/Bulletins_Attachment/Parasitic battery draw.pdf
I found that the VR is should draw 1-2 milliamps,ECM7-8,clocks 3-5 milliamps.On GMs didnt find ford specific..
My gremlin was the drivers side door courtesy switch ,flaked out...
I found that the VR is should draw 1-2 milliamps,ECM7-8,clocks 3-5 milliamps.On GMs didnt find ford specific..
My gremlin was the drivers side door courtesy switch ,flaked out...
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
